panchovisa

Guys, Just be careful that at full throttle opening the belcrank is still moving towards the carb throttle linkage!!!! If not, the harder you push your throttle pedal you'll actually start closing the carbs down.

Oh, air cooled engines would never last (besides the pistons eventualy scraping on the road). Besides, where would you get heat to melt the ice off your windows (Minnesota). If God had wanted us to drive air-cooled engines then why do we have anti-freeze??? Logic is a wonderful thing, no?

HS30-h, I recall my father saying that when Chevy first came out with their V-8 engine in the '50's many people swore that eventualy the pistons would wear thru the outside cylinder walls!!!!! The flat earth society was alive and kicking even then.

And for a lower hood.

Last Call for Alcohol!! Bartender, I'll just have one more I promise. Hold my keys buddy.

Poormans supercharger, Connect your A/C and blower to your air cleaner. GOD THIS IS A GOOD RITA!

OH! Zmefly, Annecdottal (my spell gets worse as my ritas get better) evidense; I saw PLN win his first Trans-Am in his turbo 280zx at Brainard (real horsepower track). He qualified 8th on a cool Saturday, but race day was super hot with Everglades humidity. By the third turn he had a 20 car length lead and left all the Chevy and Ford guys for dead! Why? Because the normaly aspirated cars were trying to build horsepower from expanded (HOT) wet ( more H2O than O2) air and the turbo didn't CARE what went INTO the turbo only that the intercooler cooled it to useable temperature before the cylinder.

cont. Now I would like some diligent reader to think of why the intake valves are always larger than exhaust valves. On the face of it, this doesn't make sense. How can we push more air into our engines if we don't empty out the cylinder first? How can we get hot/expanded combustion by-products out thru a smaller opening than we used to get colder/denser charge in???? While you work on that I'll work on another BIG/DENSE margarita.

Cont. CAI by itself may only supply air that is 40/ 50/60 degrees cooler than engine compartment air. We know that cooler air is more dense (the number of available oxygen molecules takes up less space) which is good for us. But because oxygen doesn't even make up the majority of air, the benefit to our engines is not great (1 or 2% more oxygen?). BUT, we haven't helped to get the more dense air into the engine! It is still trying to PULL the air/fuel into the cylinders. It is very difficult to create a vaccume, especially when it "leaks" so badly thru our carburetors! How much vaccume do you feel when you pull a vaccume line off the intake manifold??? Not much! NOW, if we duct air from a high pressure area (RAM air) we get the benefit of denser air (more oxygen per cc) and we PUSH it into our "leaky" vaccume chamber (cylinder) at slightly greater than atmospheric pressure (which compresses the charge and allows even MORE of our dense cold oxygen into our cylinders) we can begin to see real performance gains! Paul VanBlankenburg (sp?) wrote that GM found in the early Can-Am days that ram-air induction on full race big block Chevys added as much as 10% HP gain (depending on road speed and throttle position). That my friends is serious FREE HORSEPOWER!

Zmefly, The topic of cold air induction has been confused with FORCED/RAM air induction. In a tubo application the compressor supplies far more inlet pressure than can be achieved thru what is usually called RAM air induction in normally aspirated engines. In NA applications RAM air induction is always cold air, BUT ---- Cold air induction is not ram air. Example: cold air from inside fender area is not ram air. Cold air from headlight IS ram air. Ram air from infront of car is colder than air around radiator/header You have ducted your turbo inlet to a HIGHER pressure (5%?) area which supplies colder (40 deg?) air, but then the turbo increases the pressure 50%(?) over that and heats (100 deg?)the charge greatly. This is why I say cold air doesn't work on turbos (it "works", but then compressor un-does the benefit). The real benefit is to cool the peak temperature (after turbo and before combustion, not before the turbo) Example: where is the ram air intake on turbocharged CART Indy cars???? Answer: they don't use one, and the turbo inlet doesn't even face the air stream. Where is the ram air intake on normaly aspirated IRL Indy cars cars? Answer: right on top of the fuel injection trumpets in a high pressure area.

1st, 2nd, and 3rd laws of thermodynamics??????? Anybody????

Anybody got an old physics book laying around??? PV=nrT, Bernouli tube?????

proxlamus(I'm not going to cap the letters), Anything you do now with CAI will not work with turbo. The turbo will not respond to CAI because the compression of intake charge heats the charge. Thats why turbos use an intercooler after the turbo, to cool the compressed charge. Any change in sound from your friends cars (with no exhaust changes) is from additional engine noise escaping thru INTAKE. Ask any Z owner that has put on tripple Mikunis!

Tomohawk, why size the total intake to the exhaust port/header primary diameter (times 6)? Why not the area of the tail pipe outlet (times 1)? Six exhaust ports have much greater area than one tail pipe, and exhaust ports are used only 1/6th as much as tail pipe. If intake area should equal exhaust area than why are intake valves always bigger than exhaust valves? Air+fuel in/ combustion by products out, right? Got you guys thinking now????????

Start with a new thermostat and hook up the over flow coolant tank.

Have a friend with a lathe make some spacers (or visit a machine shop) to sit on header flange to bring thickness up to intake thickness. 3/4" o.d by 3/8" i.d by approximately 1/4" thick (you must measure the offset between flanges) should do it. You will have to saw corners off spacers to fit on stud and next to intake. Will probably cost $2 each. You don't have to remove intake or header to fix this way. Otherwise you will need the flage of intake milled thinner where intake and header share a stud. Will probably cost $100.

jaynez31, Kind of hard to follow your question, but here goes. 1)The slave cylinder you have is good if you can bolt it to the transmission, and the rod matches the clutch fork, and you have enough adjustment on rod. 2)No need to change clutch master cylinder to 280 or 300Z model. 3)Clutch and flywheel makes no difference in slave cylinder selection, as long as #1 applies. 4)Adjust slave cylinder rod with some play, bleed slave (and replaced master) cylinder. Then readjust slave rod with slight play. Start engine and slowly try to select a gear. If clutch disk didn't dis-engage (gears grind) then lengthen slave rod. Repeat until all is well. You don't want the rod to long (or clutch disk will slip and wear against flywheel/pressure plate, and throw out bearing will wear), but you don't want rod to short (or clutch disk will not realease from flywheel/pressure plate and you will grind gears).