panchovisa

Have a friend with a lathe make some spacers (or visit a machine shop) to sit on header flange to bring thickness up to intake thickness. 3/4" o.d by 3/8" i.d by approximately 1/4" thick (you must measure the offset between flanges) should do it. You will have to saw corners off spacers to fit on stud and next to intake. Will probably cost $2 each. You don't have to remove intake or header to fix this way. Otherwise you will need the flage of intake milled thinner where intake and header share a stud. Will probably cost $100.

jaynez31, Kind of hard to follow your question, but here goes. 1)The slave cylinder you have is good if you can bolt it to the transmission, and the rod matches the clutch fork, and you have enough adjustment on rod. 2)No need to change clutch master cylinder to 280 or 300Z model. 3)Clutch and flywheel makes no difference in slave cylinder selection, as long as #1 applies. 4)Adjust slave cylinder rod with some play, bleed slave (and replaced master) cylinder. Then readjust slave rod with slight play. Start engine and slowly try to select a gear. If clutch disk didn't dis-engage (gears grind) then lengthen slave rod. Repeat until all is well. You don't want the rod to long (or clutch disk will slip and wear against flywheel/pressure plate, and throw out bearing will wear), but you don't want rod to short (or clutch disk will not realease from flywheel/pressure plate and you will grind gears).

S snake, you don't need to (nor do you want to) take apart the item circled on your picture. It won't allow you to just replace the part you want (you'll end up taking another car apart to replace what you want now). Slide the rubber boot towards the center of the car. You will see two wrench flats on inner tie rod end.. Look at the direction of the exposed threads........ They should be LEFT-HANDED. Turn the jam nut as though you were tightening a standard R-H nut. Should come apart if you haven't tightened it so much already.

Frank, last time I checked your gallery there was only a picture of your rear end. Turn around this time buddy!

Frank, I said Visa owns me, not owes me. I wish they did, but they don't. Hope you computer gets fixed b-4 sweetgrrl runs out of patience.

Now all we need is Frank13 to post a picture to prove he will be "the cute one" at MSA Nationals. I think he meant of just the guys Holly.

Pictures, yes we need pictures. It's the internet, and well, you never know. Frank, Visa owns me!!!!!!

If a title is desired, and paperwork is the problem, then here is something that someone I know did. Buy the cheapest rusty piece of junk Z (the actual car was a Vette) of the correct year/model ($200 should do it for a Z). Take the tag off the dash, door jam, engine compartment, etc. Pull the engine and transmission. Remove the liscence plates. Cut the car into pieces and call the metal scrap dealer to take away. Nobody else will ever have those numbers again. Put all the pieces (you were going to rebuild an engine someday anyway, right?) into your clean car. Take the title and old plates to the DMV and get new plates/ registration/ state title. It's not my recomendation, but only an annecdote of what lenghts some go to get a clean title.

About the only performance aspects of plugs would be the correct heat range, gap, and to have the proper washers so that plug threads are not exposed to combustion chamber. Also so that plug is not to short (head threads exposed). Any exposed threads create hot spots that can cause detonation.

Sparkplugs ignite the fuel air mixture. They either work or don't. No horsepower from "better/ faster/ hotter/ cooler/ fluffier/ prettier/ nicer" spark. You want more power add more fuel+air/ displacement/ compression/ all the other things that cost more than $8.00!!!!

I know that 2mZ's and others have helped me (maybe sometimes without even knowing it!). It is very difficult sometimes to decsribe the problem and harder to describe the many possible reasons. I wish PUSHER lived in my city, I'd go over there (but only if the beer was cold) and start ripping into that car until it was fixed (or at least it was KNOW what was wrong). I am a firm beliver that the rear cross member is one of the great performance (handling) handicaps of the Z car design. Attached is a photo of how I improved the rinky-dink design of small bolts in large holes/ flimsy three piece x-member.

Tomohawk, The Mallory rev limited I've got is the generic solution you want. It doesn't attach to tach (mine is mechanical), electronic or point ignition is no problem, heck it doesn't even care if your 4,6, or 8 cylinders! If you're really interested search the Mallory web site(try other ignition mfg also)

Sblake, why don't we start a new thread: Frank13 looking for new diggs and squeeze. Maybe sweetgrrl has a room for rent???????

Wait a minute here, have we been had????? Tomohawk, don't you have an automatic? That is your rev limiter.

sweergrrl, would you just post a mugshot for franksinlove13. I can't stand the suspence any longer. Frank just PM her would ya! Somethings should be private. PS Frank you will invite me to the wedding, right?

Tomohawk, yep thats what they do. Where they connect isn't important.

Tomohawk, I have a generic Mallory rev limiter on my car. It is adjustable. You can see it in picture of my interior in my gallery. It is calibrated for an 8 cylinder engine, but through trial and error you find the setting your looking for. I use it now with stock 240 ignition, but it also worked with crank triggered MSD-7 ignition. It's a vintage piece, but I'd try looking at Mallory's web site for more modern version.

Pusher, when the PO put the long bushings on one side and the short bushings on the otherside, do you think he didn't have to "persuade" things back together???? A "persuader" is another name for a hammer! You know, a Mexican screwdriver (I can say that because I'm Pancho). I'm almost certain your rear cross-member is not where it should be.

Pusher, it's so frustrating trying to help over the internet. The Z was designed to have toe-in on BOTH rear wheels. If drivers side looks "toeless) it is also out of wack along with passenger side. All your attention has been focused on the passenger side, and I've found that when I limit my focus I can't see the problem. Stand back, look at the big picture, don't be afraid to take some things apart to make sure they are correct. Remember the crazy inner bushing f-up? No telling what other things PO did. Maybe problem is at outerbushings??????