panchovisa

Zvoiture, Sorry to hear of your troubles. I suggest returning the car (with transportation charge one way) for return of purchase price. Then move on in your search for quality car. Follow this link to view a really well built L-28 300zx (late style) GT2 racer. This bad boy is soooooo sweet! It's pricey, but you said money was not the determining factor. http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/other/1062560599/1062560599ss.htm best wishes and Merry Christmas, Pancho

TwoManyZs, Thanks for the quick feedback. I've been searching for Hurst-Airheart sites and all I get is mentions in pages about vintage racecars. I want to keep the H-A brakes to maintain the period correctness. Looks like re-lining is the way to go.

Does anyone know of a source for new pads for the Hurst-Airheart 4 piston front and 2 piston rear brakes that were sold thru the Datsun competion catalogs of the mid to late '70's? Or does anyone know of a source that can replace friction material on my worn pads? I am putting the race brakes back onto my streetable C-Production car and want a semi-metalic pad that will work cold and wet for street and still perform for auto-x/track days. Thanks in advance, Pancho

I believe that origional (read old) Minilites were all magnesium. Panasport made very good copies (under liscence?) in aluminum. Minilite may now use aluminum as standard with magnesium being "available". One way to tell magnesium from aluminum is that "mag" is very pourous (air is lighter than even magnesium) with many fine closely spaced air pockets. This is more noticeable on machined surfaces where it can't be confused with casting texture. Another way to spot "mag" is that real mag wheels must be painted (clear, or color) to seal the wheel to prevent air from escaping the tire. This may be done on inside, and/or outside. I have "mag" wheels on my car and they are extremely light. With 12" wide race slicks my 14"x7" Sterling mags weigh approximately 18 lbs.