panchovisa

Bill, if we made them young enough for you they would be zeggs.

I think Nissan should hire some Aston Martin designers. They seem to be able to design modern cars and still keep the styling clues from their classic parents.

You need to talk to Ron Carter. Those look very similar to a new set of BRE race headers (built from information from those that know) he put on his beautiful reproduction of John Mortens 1971 CP National Championship car. Check his gallery images, or PM him.

I didn't say anything about RE-moving, only moving per your 1st post. Or were you responding to someone else?

Tomohawk, yes your origional post number 1 had a good thought. My question would be, how much time does the "cooler" air spend on the intake before the engine consummes it? Not much time, surely not enough to raise the temperature much, and most definetly the temperature rise was figured into the origional factory settings. Benefit to moving it, none that I can think of. Downside to moving it, you will find out when you have time to get to this project. Keep us posted.

MikeW, I made the statement about average and top speeds to Tomo only to get the point across that elapsed time is what he should wrap his mind around. Of course I know that speed is distance divided by time (which is an average for that distance, or that time). People fixate on speed without knowing what it is. And when they get confused they argue acceleration (which is what they don't understand squared!).

Tomo, your right the average speed doesn't count. In fact the final speed doesn't count either (300mph or 500mph). What does count is elapsed time (same as in real drag racing). MikeW has given you all that is important, the dragster wins by 17' and .059 seconds. If the 1/4 mile were 18' shorter the Vette wins. In fact 15 or 16' shorter should do (assuming the dragster is still accelating at the finish line)

While we're on the subject of safety equipement: How tight should 5 (or 6) point safty harness crotch straps be? How much looser can I wear them on the street? Should they just cause discomfort, or permanent injury?

Carl, did I read that right? Was #2 the number 1 choice of Special Olympians? Pretty high praise I must say.

Most of the molds I poured into were rigid (wood/aluminum/or combinations) for dimensional accuracy. Most of my cast pieces were aluminum ao Iron oxide filled epoxies (also for dimensional accuracy and durability). The surface tension between the mold and exact cast were amazingly high! I always used to "hang" a block of mahogany to embed it into the center of my cast. Whenit came time to seperate the cast from the mold I would use a 1/2" thick piece of steel resting on 1" spacers straddeling the mold. I would screw big lag screws through 1/2" steel into embeded wood block. It would take many lag screws to apply gradualy increasing tension (sometimes 1/2" bar would bend the full distence of 1" spacers!!!!!) before the surface tension would release. The cast would fly 6" out of mold!! This was with proper mold prep and release agents. A very sick feeling when you fear you will NEVER seperate the cast from the mold.

Ahmed, it (and many other resins) would have applications. I have 25 years experience making molds and parts from many different kinds of pourable epoxy/urethane/silicone/plaster/etc products. None of them are as easy to use as advertized. Open faced molds are easiest. Closed molds with multiple parting lines/cores/loose pieces are the most complicated to vent and fill completely. A vacume chamber is needed to de-gass any resins mixed with power tools. Urethanes have a very short pot life and spped is required to mix components thourghly, de-gass, and pour before hardening (less than 5 minutes for some). Cleanliness is paramount, proper mold prep, and correct release agents are all key to sucess.

Sopwith, you better check if DOT tires are cheap. Your competitors will be using soft compound shaved DOT tires. Hoosier, BFG, and Goodyear all sell these "rule benders" at a tidy mark-up.

Ron, thanks for the heads up. I'll be tracking down this issue soon. Congradulations, your dream machine deserves the cover!

Hey Will, where are the boxes for sun roofs, dash covers, and frame rails?

I just want to know who has the one vote for the "was and is perfect" Z?

Good poll, but percentages don't make sence. After voting I see 8 people out of 14 polled upgraded wheels, but the percentage is 12.7%. Should be 57.1% of voters upgrade the wheels and tires. Beyond the math I think the poll shows that no matter how much we might think of the Z as "perfect" there is plenty of room for improvement.

Go to Midas and get the cheapest muffler that fits in the correct place. They will bend (kink) a tube to complete system. Cost about 80-100 bucks. Save your money for a good ceramic header and quality exhaust latter.

Master, whatever. Your the one thats having trouble, did mine without any help. Just thought that a wrench on the flats might give you more leverage than a vise-grip somewhere else. Also wasn't sure you knew that inner rotated. Guess I won't ever have to respond to your calls for help, because it seems you already know what your doing.

Master, the INNER tie rod ends are what gets turned (not the outer). One side of car has righthand treaded INNER's, the other side has lefthand threaded INNER's. LOOK at the direction of the exposed threads on INNER tie rod end. Leave the outer tie rods attached (re-attach loosely if needed) to the control arm/ lower balljoint/steering arm. Thats where you get you leverage. Slide rubber bellows toward center so you can find the wrench flat on INNER ball joint. EDIT: quess I should have finished reading the thread before posting. Looks like Bambi and Will gave you the same info:):)

Mine is a vintage road racer with just enough modifications to drive on the street (two seats, street tires, mufflers, lights, and carpet). No stereo (why hide the great engine noise), or frills beyond a cigarette lighter and ash tray, and no numbers or decales. In the "old days" I always watched the races and wondered what it would be like to drive a racer on the street (verses making a street car look racey). Now I will be daily driving a C-Production 240Z racer to work. I will also be racing it (no need to trailer it to the race track). Not real "practical", but one hell of a kick.

cremmenga, lube specs are in post #6.