panchovisa

Hope the ideas are more lucid that what you have shared here. Like most of your ideas it requires someone else to make it happen. I'm sure they have people that can read and understand any real plans you show them. Market analisys from "Ark #2" I'm not so sure of.

Point people are making is "WE" don't need or want this, YOU do. So get going on it, you said you have worked on it for a long time, take your plans to B&M and tell them about how many automatic owners want to be stick shifty wannabes. PS It was dog leg, not log leg.

Just put a shift knob on your autostick marked R,1,2,3,4,5. And add an astheticaly pleasing fake gate on the console. Nobody except a passenger (and you) will know its not a real 5 speed. Fits your requirements for functional and asthetic. People might wonder why you park with your car in "2nd" though.

I've never taken apart a tranny either. With that in mind, my understanding is that syncros are meant to "crash" and capture opposing gears to somewhat match the rotation of each gear and also to align "peak" of one gear with "valley" of the other. Syncros are designed to accept the "crash" which the actual gears are not. I have driven several cars with bad syncros and they can be shifted without grinding gears, but you must give gears time to slow down first and you must shift the lever slowly to mesh gears. Not fun, but can be done.

P-N-R-D-D2-L Might need a dog-leg pattern at least, no go on H pattern.

[quote name= but I'd like to see an H-gate (4 spd pattern) shifter for the auto trans people! Since the S30 is THE MOST POPULAR SPORTS CAR IN THE U.S.' date=' they should design an auto trans shifter. They had one in the late 80s, so why not redesign it for modern cars?? But how many of the most popular sports cars in the U.S. had automatics? How would they redesign it for "modern" 35 year old Z's (was more modern than the Z back in the 80's). Better luck finding an 80's model slide-o-matic at a swap meet/ebay/pick-n-pull. Can't see how they could improve on stock manual shifter.

Didn't mean to be cryptic, its just that its WAY below zero here (high about minus 38C) and I'm not crazy enough to go out in my unheated garage to measure my struts. Sorry.

Pull your caliper off. Measure diameter of your brake disk. Measusure tangent from edge of disk to center of mounting holes. 1/2 disk dia. minus tangent measurement equals "r" on your drawing. Find both "r" dimensions (probably the same) and use trig to find angle(a+. Don't think individual angles "a" and "b" that important because caliper doesn't care if it's mounted behind, in front, on top, or underneath just so long as bleed screw is highest part of caliper.

Though the flat tops are not very popular try to correct the problem before switching to round tops. Sounds like fuel starvation. New fuel filter, check fuel lines for crud. Check fuel pump for flow ( pull line, add extra hose length, pump fuel into gas can). I've never had flat tops so someone else can help with adjusting those.

I bought a 100 of the real rivits last summer. No problem getting them and they were 78 cents each.

I don't think this will hurt anything. All that has happened is that the urethane has deformed slightly, the "excess" material is now longer than planned. The M-bar is now probably hanging slightly lower than before. The universal joints (2 halfshaft + driveshaft) should be able to accept this bit of misalignment.

Catch cans are a good way to go. Was going to post a picture of my set up, but Carl's last picture link was my car. I used an old rear window washer bottle from a BMW (free at junkyard). I have just changed to ITG air cleaners so the float bowl fuel vent lines will be tee'd together with the vent also going to my catch can (puke tank). The differential and transmission breathers will also be vented to tank. The tank has a drain on the bottom to a rubber hose pluged with a bolt and tie wrap for periodic draining at oil change time. I used all braided lines, but plain rubber hose would work just fine.

26thZ, I'm with you. Rick Bolus come back and talk to us. Better yet post some old pictures so the young guys learn something:) Bolus and Snopes, haven't heard that for quite a while. 26thZ and I must be the old timers here.

Good tip mperdue! Besides you don't want to wrestle with them after a full coat of that special gorilla snot lube.

Drunkenmaster, Cleaning out the old grease is a good idea. The stuff hardens and can block freash grease from getting where it need to be. Pull the bellows off (new ones would be good) and run the rack all to one side. Clean off all the grease. Then run rack full to opposite side and clean. Repeat as necessary. An over looked area is the inner ball joints. They need to be adjusted so that they require a small force to move (check FSM for starting torque). To loose will speed up wear of ball joint, to tight will do the same. Check to see that inner ball joint is still fastened tight to end of rack (note: left-hand threads here). I've had mine apart and it was somewhat confusing which nut tightens ball joint and which one locks ball joint to rack (was the opposite of what I first thought. You'll figure it out). Might want to replce small bolt on top of rack with a grease fitting at this time. Don't know of any trick grease, any high quality wheel bearing grease (conventional or synthetic) should be just fine. There is also a pull force on end of rack to start movement. This is adjusted at pinion (aluminum housing) large nut and slotted screw. Again check FSM. Dabs of paint were indeed factory check off that all was tightened/adjusted.

Don't forget your sponser: www.sce.se Can make anything you want in CF. Also: http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yzgallery.html Z wide body kits in fiberglass.

There it is folks in black and white. What your running is not a business.