panchovisa

Now your sharing the molds? What molds? You are asking for freaking ideas! Which ever ones are most wanted will be the "molds". I used to make patterns and molds for a living. THAT'S HOW I KNOW HOW THIS "SPREAD THE TOOLING COST" PLAY WORKS!

Just be honest with the group and yourself. I've seen this kind of help before. It usually goes like this: Get three other people to pay for four parts and receive yours for free. Your direct business association with S.C.E. could be very easily verified by any of your potential "investors" (I hope they verify your "sponsorship"). You appear to have NOTHING to offer (only what you hope to receive). I wash my hands of any scam that others may wish to submit to. Zmefly, where are you now?

Here is a cool picture of a guy (my guy) airbrushing rivits onto the roof of a M3 (with CF roof panel). Since it's not really rivited then I assume (as dangerous as that might be) that to maintain structural integrity of the car the panel must be attached with some mirical adhesive (bonding maybe?). Don't worry, I told him the car was going to be fast so he needed to use high speed paint. Don't want the roof flying off at 160 MPH!

Now that there is free posting here for everyone (yes, even Mike) I'd like to provide a direct link (bypassing the middleman and the mark up that entails) to an overseas producer of CF parts. www.sce.se Note that they have a contact link. Anybody familar with them? Don't think that it would be too hard to find domestic producers for all you needs here though (Yellow pages, Thomas Directory, Uncle Fred???). Wish I could add some cute animations to this post, but I just can't find any suitable. Where is the commercial postings forum Mike?

Sorry Mull to read between the lines (correcty it seams). I added the "I believe" so as not to attribute a quote to you (which you finaly supplied yourself). Working with CF is no longer a mystical art, so when you said your guy had "A little over 10 years or so I think" of experience and that "The process is somewhat of a secret" and he was "familar with adding Kevlar" I also assumed that he was familar with weave oriantation. Those traits are common among current aviation and motorsports fabricators. What skills you bring to the game are as yet unclear. Marketing? Public relations? Creative thought? Technical knowledge? Practical skill? Engineering? Money? I anxiously await to see the fruits of your talents. Adios Amigo!

Now I want a full CF chassis. Mull, get on it.

Just don't tell Rumy that he has to run weapons systems past the F.A.A.!!!!!!!! Carbon for strength, Kevlar for toughness. Different blends for different applications. If the rusted chassis is still holding the car together, a structually sound (all on it's own) patch design could be bonded to what is left of frame to provide a stronger finished assembly than the 24 gage factory origional, agreed??? Holes in floor could be repaired by using structural adhesives to glue small steel patches over rust holes (to level out floors for carpet, to fill major holes in rails prior to full surface bonding of CF structural repair panels, etc.).

Our friend Mull is talking about carbon fiber pieces, not fiberglass (chopper style or cloth lay up). I believe that his guy has said to have experience in real structural applications (race car or aerospace quality). If you don't feel CF is an appropriate chassis material then please inform all current F1, Indycar, IRL, Grand-Am, and ALMS chassis manufactures immediatly. After that contact the D.O.D. and warn them that their most advanced aircraft are prone to falling apart.

Hey, you asked. Whats wrong with throwing a CF patch over rusted metal? Think there is no market? What do people pay to cut the car apart and weld in new sheet metal? How many Z's could avoid the boneyard if you applied your resources to develope a cancer cure? Maybe it's gagging you because it's not visible for bragging rights?

What happened to Swamp Z #1???????

Windshield, much lighter than glass. Seriously, how about designing a CF OVER rusted metal replacement for frame rails, floorboards and battery tray with inner fender. Might take a little more skill than just pulling a mold of existing parts though.

Mike knows about no posts past front page and other issues with galleries, etc. He seems to think its the new server running out of resources.

Put some bits of clay (Playdough) between the coils (the ones that are not stacked already) and drive until you feel the bottoming. Add the total thickness of the THINEST parts of clay to find out how much spring travel remained after bottoming. This will verify that shock travel is used up before spring travel, and will also tell you how close those springs will be to stacking solid even after you section strut tubes.

The shock insert (the body of shock) didn't move up/down after tightening gland nut did it? If it did, then strut tube definately needs to be sectioned.

If ,as Curtis240z said, the springs are progressive rate then I wonder how they accomplish that. All other progressive rate springs I have seen have a very noticeable difference in the distance between coils (3/4 to 1 1/4") of the soft turns and the final rate turns. The only other way to get progressive rate would be to have a tapered wire (smaller diameter at soft rate, larger at final rate) for the spring. Is the bottoming in the front you feel is from lack of shock travel or from springs stacking solid? If it is from springs stacking solid then I would ditch the progressive rate spring for a steady rate spring (coils will be fewer and farther apart). If the bottoming is from lack of shock travel then the struts need to be sectioned above the spring perch, but below the gland nut. The "peg leg" on bottom of insert will have to be shortened porportionately. The fact that you didn't need a spring compresser might be a clue here. I would guess that the amount to remove from strut would be equal to the amount of free play of spring to perch at full droop. I would avoid progressive rate springs except for on vehicles that have large amounts of wheel travel (SUV's, luxury sedans) and not on our beloved Z's.

Front looks like a mess! Do you have the ends of spring rotated to place end of spring wire into "pockets" of upper AND lower spring perch? Did your shocks come with a "spacer"? Did you place it under the shock insert? Only reasons I can think of for spring 60% stacked at ride height would be that shock is at full rebound (spacer placed on top of shock insert) and is keeping spring from extending. Or the spring is off the perches, or spring is defective (very low spring rate) Are you sure that you bought the right shock and spring for your year car (previous owner may have swaped in different year front struts). If I had to guess the main reason it would be that shocks are to short for this installation (wrong parts, or spacer in wrong place) My question to you is HOW IN THE HELL DID YOU GET SPRING COMPRESSER OFF!!!!!.

Freeze plugs. Silver colored if installed after block is painted, otherwise same color as block.

Obviously that Doctor is pretty dumb. NOT! It's so easy to "know" what to do after somebody has told you what NOT to do. How about just being glad someone spent the time to let you know what you already "knew". Just say thanks.

Thanks for the heads up, will let my wife know also.

Stewart-Warner

Cold on the way guys, was -18 F in Minneapols this morning. Got to know that cold follows snow!

mperdue, I believe that the material is a phenolic plastic (paper and resin) similar to what might be used on pots and pans handles. Check with a speciality lumberyard (exotic woods , etc), or an industrial suppy house, or electric motor rebuilders. The isolators are solid mounts, but they isolate heat conduction to the carb.