WalterMondale

I use the Harbor Frieght Compressors. In addition to using the included safety hooks, I wrapped two nylon straps around th whole thing. The threaded rods do not cut into the strap, as they turn fairly slow and not very far. I only did this as a preventative measure, hearing of springs gone wild.

Couldn't PaPa Duece crawl under the car, unbolt the slave cylinder, then measure how much throw there is on the fork, to verify if he really needs to drop the transmission? Also, is it not possible the PO installed the wrong or short slave cylinder pin (which would not fully push the fork back)? At least he would be able to see at this point that something is amiss in geometry/ mechanics.

The rear finish panels are longer on the 2+2, and the rear of the car is 3/4" wider than the coupe. Bumpers are wider (longer) too. The bumper end caps are different some how, but I have never figured out how, other than part numbers are not the same. The rear hatches are not the same. The hatch windows are not the same shape/size. Front windshield part numbers are not the same, but I have read here or somewhere (by TonyD, I think) that the front glass will interchange. Suspension in the 4 seater is rated for the heavier car with a 4 person payload. The Rear Sway bar in my 2+2 is 1 1/8"!

In the U.S., the 1974 260Z was offered as a coupe and 2+2 , the 75-78 280Z's were also available as a coupe or 2+2. In the 2+2 car, the tool boxes found in the coupes were deleted and small seats were installed. The back of the rear seat folds down over the seat cushions. This make for some convenient package transport. The 2+2 is about 11 1/2" longer than the coupe. The doors are longer and so is the space between the rear edge of the door and the rear wheel arches. The qtr windows open in the 2+2. The 2+2 weighs about 300 pounds more than the 2 seater. IMHO, the 2+2 car can look very nice in certain colors. It looks terrible in brown, but great in grey, green, and orange.

The original plastic trims I have are so brittle now, I have great concern about putting them back in when the time comes. I have been thinking I may try my hand at fiberglass (carbon fiber) replacements. However, $300 will buy the four pieces of Quarter Trim from http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html I have been threating to stop at the vacuum plating place on Church Rd in Moorestown and see if they would do chrome plating on some plastic pieces for me.

I feel for you if this is a matter of trying to save some dough. At times, I have found dissapointment trying to make a repair that brings a new learning curve, new special tools, and lot's of time. Contrary to that, I bought my first mig welder, spent lot's of time practicing, and now make quite a bit of money welding special projects. I guess you have to ask yourself if your up to the challenge, and if going forward is worth the investment of time and money. Which plastic panels are you looking to repair? Perhaps you could find "better" ones. I by no means want to dismiss you original questions about making the repairs plastic. I have found some of the information on this thread enlightning. If you do find yourself making these repairs, please post some before and after pictures. I wish you the best of luck!

While it is a part of the rear wheel arch, that small area can be found at Victoria British. Part # 99-203 $39.95

Enrique, You are the MAN!

That hole on the rocker box is very common. I think that the front fender vibrates against it and wears the paint off. Once wet with water from either the cowl drain or road spray, the rust accelerates the growth of the hole. Once I discovered and made the repairs on mine, I applied brush-on undercoat on the rocker and the inside of the fender.Then I applied a piece of "peel-n-seal" over the rocker where it may touch the inside of the fender. This I hope will minimize a new "wear-thru". I also copied EScanlon's idea about extending the cowl drain away from this area.

Now, that's a shame! Damn you Dad!, why can't the kid have his Z car, for crying out loud. Poor Kid! not to mention the rest of us. The Kid probably could have saved another one from the bone yard.

Don't you get it? It's a STICK Shift!

I own a "77" that had Ziebart application by original owner when the car was new. After taking the car apart, I only found rust around the windshield flanges where the gaskets would trap water. A place where the Ziebart could not have been applied. I did find rust in the right front rocker box , but that was not becuase of a failed Ziebart application. I beleived the rust was formed here due to the inside of the fender rubbing the outside of the rocker box, wearing a hole, permiting the water drain from the cowl to leak into it. - But I could be wrong. Overall, the application has proven to be a real good investment. The car is from Virginia.

I am sad I missed this one too. I have not checked this site in a month or so. And to add insult to injury I have been travelling between Philadelphia and Kitty Hawk, passing thru Norfolk / VA Beach every other week since July. Jon

Here they are new! http://store.yahoo.com/streetbeatcustoms/slidrag35x55.html?AID=10273857&PID=1264614

I did see the passenger foot rest pictured on the Nissan Microfiche. So I thought that it would be a typical dealer installed item. Part#75500-N4200 Up to 09/74 - Fiche D-4 Section 156-6 - Floor Panel