WalterMondale

I use the Harbor Frieght Compressors. In addition to using the included safety hooks, I wrapped two nylon straps around th whole thing. The threaded rods do not cut into the strap, as they turn fairly slow and not very far. I only did this as a preventative measure, hearing of springs gone wild.

Couldn't PaPa Duece crawl under the car, unbolt the slave cylinder, then measure how much throw there is on the fork, to verify if he really needs to drop the transmission? Also, is it not possible the PO installed the wrong or short slave cylinder pin (which would not fully push the fork back)? At least he would be able to see at this point that something is amiss in geometry/ mechanics.

The rear finish panels are longer on the 2+2, and the rear of the car is 3/4" wider than the coupe. Bumpers are wider (longer) too. The bumper end caps are different some how, but I have never figured out how, other than part numbers are not the same. The rear hatches are not the same. The hatch windows are not the same shape/size. Front windshield part numbers are not the same, but I have read here or somewhere (by TonyD, I think) that the front glass will interchange. Suspension in the 4 seater is rated for the heavier car with a 4 person payload. The Rear Sway bar in my 2+2 is 1 1/8"!

In the U.S., the 1974 260Z was offered as a coupe and 2+2 , the 75-78 280Z's were also available as a coupe or 2+2. In the 2+2 car, the tool boxes found in the coupes were deleted and small seats were installed. The back of the rear seat folds down over the seat cushions. This make for some convenient package transport. The 2+2 is about 11 1/2" longer than the coupe. The doors are longer and so is the space between the rear edge of the door and the rear wheel arches. The qtr windows open in the 2+2. The 2+2 weighs about 300 pounds more than the 2 seater. IMHO, the 2+2 car can look very nice in certain colors. It looks terrible in brown, but great in grey, green, and orange.

The original plastic trims I have are so brittle now, I have great concern about putting them back in when the time comes. I have been thinking I may try my hand at fiberglass (carbon fiber) replacements. However, $300 will buy the four pieces of Quarter Trim from http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html I have been threating to stop at the vacuum plating place on Church Rd in Moorestown and see if they would do chrome plating on some plastic pieces for me.

I feel for you if this is a matter of trying to save some dough. At times, I have found dissapointment trying to make a repair that brings a new learning curve, new special tools, and lot's of time. Contrary to that, I bought my first mig welder, spent lot's of time practicing, and now make quite a bit of money welding special projects. I guess you have to ask yourself if your up to the challenge, and if going forward is worth the investment of time and money. Which plastic panels are you looking to repair? Perhaps you could find "better" ones. I by no means want to dismiss you original questions about making the repairs plastic. I have found some of the information on this thread enlightning. If you do find yourself making these repairs, please post some before and after pictures. I wish you the best of luck!

While it is a part of the rear wheel arch, that small area can be found at Victoria British. Part # 99-203 $39.95

Enrique, You are the MAN!

That hole on the rocker box is very common. I think that the front fender vibrates against it and wears the paint off. Once wet with water from either the cowl drain or road spray, the rust accelerates the growth of the hole. Once I discovered and made the repairs on mine, I applied brush-on undercoat on the rocker and the inside of the fender.Then I applied a piece of "peel-n-seal" over the rocker where it may touch the inside of the fender. This I hope will minimize a new "wear-thru". I also copied EScanlon's idea about extending the cowl drain away from this area.

Now, that's a shame! Damn you Dad!, why can't the kid have his Z car, for crying out loud. Poor Kid! not to mention the rest of us. The Kid probably could have saved another one from the bone yard.

Don't you get it? It's a STICK Shift!

I own a "77" that had Ziebart application by original owner when the car was new. After taking the car apart, I only found rust around the windshield flanges where the gaskets would trap water. A place where the Ziebart could not have been applied. I did find rust in the right front rocker box , but that was not becuase of a failed Ziebart application. I beleived the rust was formed here due to the inside of the fender rubbing the outside of the rocker box, wearing a hole, permiting the water drain from the cowl to leak into it. - But I could be wrong. Overall, the application has proven to be a real good investment. The car is from Virginia.

I am sad I missed this one too. I have not checked this site in a month or so. And to add insult to injury I have been travelling between Philadelphia and Kitty Hawk, passing thru Norfolk / VA Beach every other week since July. Jon

Here they are new! http://store.yahoo.com/streetbeatcustoms/slidrag35x55.html?AID=10273857&PID=1264614

I did see the passenger foot rest pictured on the Nissan Microfiche. So I thought that it would be a typical dealer installed item. Part#75500-N4200 Up to 09/74 - Fiche D-4 Section 156-6 - Floor Panel

I have been using a Norton Abrasives "Rapid Strip" for removing paint and rust. It can be had in a 1/2" thick or 1" thick size. Both are 4 " in Diameter. They come with a mandrel for drill use. I use the 1/2" thick size, remove the mandrel by drilling out the flange, then drill a 5/8" dia meter hole in the center. I put this on the angle grinder. It is the greatest striping tool! It will not gouge the sheet metal. With a little practice, you can even polish the sheet metal to a mirror finish.

I did receive this message from the seller: Dear customer Thanks for your email. These seats will include the quick release button for the quick release of the seats to recline forward for the back pssenger thank you Angeleyelister No Info given about the seat rails though. By the way there is another seller on ebay with the same seats for sale. He sells them as single units for $127 per unit. Shipping is $79.95 for the first seat, 50% shipping discount for the second seat (39.97). FYI

I emailed the seller earlier today, but no reply yet. I am guessing that the seats flip forward as well as recline, but I would like to know for sure. I also assume that all of the seats this seller has listed for sale use the same standard universal brackets. I will let you know if he replys.

Those look very nice for the price. The same seller has the same seats listed with many other cars in the description- look at his other sales. Has a buy it now for $255 US. The size does look good for the Z. I wonder if they flip forward, not just recline. I will do some more research. Thank you for finding these. I may jump into this also. I will bid on the Honda set, just to get those guys...

Here is a link to hybridz.org for this very subject. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=29744

I would like to put the smaller bumpers on my 77 280 2+2. I found a NOS 2+2 center but I only have some decent 240 coupe end pieces, but I think that they are not the right shape as the early 260 2+2 ends. Can anyone tell me the diffence between the coupe ends and the 2+2 ends? The 2+2 center bar is approx 1" longer than the coupe center bar.

Sorry, I assumed it was a 1st gen Z. I should have known better when you stated "cloth". I think that the 3M spray may bleed thru the fabric, so do not use that, especially if it is a light color fabric, unless the can states that it is okay. You may even want to try a sample work up anyway. I know this becuase I tried this on my Jeep Cherokee, and it failed and looked like crap. I was much happier paying the local shop to do this.

The Headliner material is vinyl with a foam backing. The foam gets funky after years of temperature changes and the glue gives up its service life. You can try to reglue it with 3M “77” adhesive. The stuff comes in a spray can. I have seen it for sale at both Pep Boys and Home Depot. Follow the can directions to the letter. If you don’t it will not hold up. It really is required to let the glue set up before you press the liner back into place. Try to get some help when you do this chore. Be sure to mask off everything in the car you do not want glue on. Last option is to take it to an auto upholstery shop. It should not be very expensive a job.

:beard: In 1977 Nothing was cooler than Brain Salad Surgery blasting out the windows via 8-track and Jensen 6x9 coax speakers:smoke: Oh yeah, I had seed burns all over the place, far F*&king Out! welcome back my friends.....

This may not be what you want to hear, but may be helpful anyway.... I have heard that some Hyundai cars use the same small inflatable spares. They even have the same bolt pattern. Peace out