WarrenZ

Good work. I'm running the Flamethrower coil with the Pertronix ignition (but triples) and I have not gone out to that bigger gap, I think high 30's from memory, if your not happy with what you have done you could experiment with the plug gap for no6. But if you can pull 7K smoothly that very good. Warren

You could swap the No.6 plug to another cylinder and see which ones runs lean, it may just be a off spec plug. If it stays on 6 then it has got to be either poor spark or poor fuel delivery. You could check the no6 post inside your distributor cap for corrosion or excessive wear You could measure the resistance of the plug lead compared to the others. Warren

You don't say what carbies you are running? If it is the standard SU's then generally the front 3 should be very similar and the back 3 should be very similar as each 3 run off a single SU. If one of the 3 looks lean may be you could check tappet adjustments on No.6, the inlet clearance could be too small and not letting in the right amount of fuel or a sticking inlet valve. Could be higher resistance spark plug lead reducing spark and fuel burn If you are running triples or FI then that is a whole difference ball game Cheers Warren

They are RB's on the front and RB-R's on the rear. I like the dish on the RB-R's which also give a nicer shape to the spokes Here are some pics of the RB-R's on the rear Warren

I am running 205/55x16 on 7" wheels on the front of mine with Toyo Proxes R1R's. I think it is a great fit, no clearance issues. The trial fit on the rear I think looks better than the 16x8's with 225/50 tires. I would have had 205/55x16 on 7" all round but a stock count error by the rim supplier on the 16x7's saw him offer 2 16x8's at the same price and with the ozzy $ taking a dive the next shipment would have been to expensive and several months away. Cheers Warren

I had a similar problem some time ago, prior to fitting my Pertronix ignition, maybe you read the thread, there may be some ideas there or a process to follow. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28875&highlight=rev It can only be 2 issues, spark or fuel. If all was OK before then one would think fuel is not the problem. Check you have not disturbed or prevented the vacuum advance plate from moving. Check the condition of your distributor cap and rotor, mine was 30+years old and badly worn. Your pumping a lot higher voltage through those old plug leads and cap and rotor, they could be breaking down. Warren

If you have used POR 15 and have Marine Clean left over use that, I found it worked really well. Make sure you rinse well with water after. Warren

The Nissan part numbers are:- 76837-N4500 76838-N4500 The have 2 screw hols at the top close together (like in your pictire) and one in the centre and a third further down. But the window does not have the screws there, so I figure I would need to glue them in as well as fix them at the top. I have not fitted them yet as one side is a very tight fit between the door and quarter window. Warren

I was intending to fit 16x7 RB's all round but due to a mix up in stock count by the supplier he offered me 2 16x7 and 2 16x8 for the rear for the same price. They have +4mm offset. The rears were RB-R's which have the bigger dish. I fitted Toyo R1-R tyres, 205/55 front and 225/50 on the rear. The rear rubbed ever so slightly on big dips. Yesterday I had the rear guards rolled but have not yet fully tested it. I tried the 16x7's on the rear with the 205/55 tyres and no problems at all. For the money I think they are good value, can't comment yet on toughness etc., but I think they look great. Warren

I manage to get a ride in the 370. They took 2 S30's up the mountain to shoot that nose to nose picture and some weaving about and fortunately there was 3 from Nissan and their advertising agency and 4 seats so I jumped in the 370. I do have a 350Z as well as the 240 and found there was quite a difference. Whilst the car we had was a Japanese spec car the interior is a lot more up market than the 350, not as much plastic more leather and fabric and the soft feel plastic. The seating position is much lower than the 350 and a little more leg room on the driver side. I thought the ride was a bit like the track model and harsher than my 350Z Touring, but it had 18" wheels against my 17" so maybe that was it. The road noise is much quieter and you get more of the engine noise, which I like from a sports car. The rear section does not have the strut brace but the slope of the back and the full size spare reduces the height in the hatch section. The front brakes are 4 pot Nissan brakes with huge rotors and I believe they got a workout on the way up the mountain and the comment was they are much better than the Brembo's on the Track model. The car was a manual with an automatic throttle blip when you down shift, no need to heel and toe. The car looks better in the flesh than any photo and grows on you. My impression from the ride I had and giving it the once over is that it is an improvement on the 350. Warren

Hi The Auszcar club gathered at alpine resort village of Thredbo in the mountains of New South Wales over the weekend of 20-23 February. A healthy gathering of around 18 Z's from Melbourne, Sydney and Canberra converging on the village in fine sunny weather and awesome mountain roads. It was great to see so many Z's from other parts of Australia not seen together before and meet their owners. A great weekend was made even more special when Nissan Australia joined us with a pre-production 370Z (Chassis no.9) and a 350Z Roadster as camera car for a photo shoot and interviews with the members. The 370Z is launched in Australia on Friday 27th Feb at the Melbourne Motor Show but does not go on sale for several months. Warren

In Australia the 260Z, which first came on the market in the second half of 1973 had the lights with the divider and 2 bulbs. There was a white light for the parking light and an orange light for the turn signal. The outside lens cover was clear with an orange glass inside on the turn signal side of the light. This light was introduced due to a change in the vehicle design rules in 1973 where by turn signals had to be orange and parking lights white. Previously the 240Z had a single bulb white turn and parking light housing. Cheers Warren

This may help. Below is a scanned page from 1970 Australian Motor Magazine which road tested the first 240Z in early 1970. The picture shows the valve stem below the D in line with one of the spokes. Warren

I always ground the spark plug then you should see the spark jump the plug gap. Hold the coil lead near ground, if there is a spark therethen coil is OK but if not at the plug there is something wrong inside the distributor ie rotor button contacts. Good luck Warren

My garage or the Zed Shed Warren

Check that the Accelerator pump jets are squirting gas into the chokes of the carby's. Use a mirror and light to look down the carby throats while someone flattens the gas pedal for you. Also make sure the butterflies are opening when you press the gas pedal. If you are getting fuel from the Accelerator pump jets then it should fire. You normally have to pump the gas pedal (quickly all the way to the floor) 4-5 times before trying to start, that is assuming you have not connected the choke cables. I had similar problems with my Dellorto's and found the pump jets were blocked despite my cleaning and blowing air through before installing them. Warren

Des Hammils book on Webers and Dellortos talks about this probelm and he says it can occur if there is not enough fuel in the emulsion tubes when you transition to the main jet. This could be caused by float level adjustment or poor fuel delivery. Check the float adjustment and also curious as to what size Pump Jets you have Float adjustment is 15mm droop when fully open and 7.5mm shut off for a Weber. Warren

I have exactly the same problem with the triple Dellorto's I have recently installed. I have got the idle (or low revs) mixture right and the high revs mixture right after testing various jets and using a Colortune spark plug. When you floor the accelerator the Acc Pump Jets squirts fuel into the venturi and this is the fuel to take you through the transition from running on the idle jet to running on the main jet, which occurs around 3000 revs. If I floor it at anything under 3000 revs it dies and does not recover until I back off the acc a little and if I accelerate on 3/4 throttle I don't have the problem. I cannot decide if it is getting too much or not enough fuel when I floor it. Any theories? Warren

Most likely you will see them fitted to cars with non standard air cleaners or SU's replaced by tripple carbs where both do not have a means to recycle the blow by. Haven't noticed the any fuel smell yet. Warren

I know how you feel as I had similar problems a few months back, started but would not rev. There are only 2 things here, spark and fuel. You say you have spark so I assume this is at the spark plug, if you are not sure take out one of the plugs and with the lead connected hold it on the tappet cover while someone cranks it over. If that is OK do you have fuel, some serious cranking on wide open throttle and no start should show as wet plugs. Can you see fuel in the fuel filter? Is there fuel in the float bowls on the side of the carby's? (you going to have to take the top off). If all looks OK then buy a can of Aerostart and lift the SU pistons with your finger and spray some in the throat of the carby's. Then quickly crank it over, it should fire on the Areostart and then drag the fuel through. If it fires on the Aerostart and will not continue to run then you are not getting fuel to or through the carby's. When I had the SU's fitted and the car and had not been started for a few weeks then Aerostart was the only way I could get it to start. Hope one of those does the trick Warren

I recently did my 240 with Dynamat Extreme. Initially I bought 1 bulk pack (9 sheets, 18" x 32"). That did the tunnel (sides, top and under heater core) and all the floor on both sides from the firewall to the cargo area and inside the left and right 3/4 panels in the cargo area. If you are going to do the cargo floor and the doors I would say you need 2 bulk packs and you might have some left over. Warren

The drain plug on the diff has a tapered thread so if it is over tightened it is very difficult to get out. Under normal circumstances you should be able to undo it without dismantling the rear suspension as long as you square bar fits into the drain plug hole perfectly. If you can get the car off the ground a bit or on a hoist then you can use a longer bar and the extra leverage may do it otherwise you will have to remove the bar across the diff to give yourself more room to operate. I had the exact same problem just after I bought my car many years ago, ended up takingthe car to a workshop that specialised in Z's and paid them to change the oil. They had to remove the bar across the diff and then butcher the plug to get it out and then they fitted a new one with correct tensioning. A bit more expensive than I expected but I was watching and they almost an hour to get it out, so money well spent. Warren

Not according to page 121 of my Haynes Manual A 4 speed 260Z is 3.364, but 4 speed 204 is 3.9 Warren

You did not say if it was a 4 or 5 speed so according to the Haynes manual for a 240Z they are:- 4 speed 5 speed 1 3.549:1 2.957:1 2 2.197:1 1.857:1 3 1.420:1 1.311:1 4 1.0:1 1.0:1 5 N/A 0.852:1 Diff ratio for 4 speed gearbox = 3.9:1 and 5 speed = 3.364:1 See how that looks Cheers WarrenZ

You can calculate the RPM for any gear using this formula:- rpm = (mph * gear ratio * final diff ratio * 88) / circumference of rear tire in feet ie 5.25 feet Measure the circumference of your tires with a tape. Since your speedo will not be 100% accurate the answer may be a little off If you want to calculate MPH for a given RPM in a particular gear then the formula rearranges to :- mph = (rpm * cir) / (gear * final * 88) This also gives an indication on the accuracy of your speedo. Cheers WarrenZ