frank13

Amen brother! :devious: :devious: I'm thumping, that's why they call me thumper! :devious: .

Me??? Not at all. I really feel these two places have good Customer relation skills. When I first found Modern Motorsports Ltd. I sent an email question. Ross replied within 2 days. The last time I sent an email up there, I recieved a reply same night. And it was a sunday. Last a emailed Dave at ArizonaZcar, he also replied the same day. For information based email not just a problem or order type thing, same day replies go a very Looonnngggggg way to get my hard earned cash. Brsides have you seen the stuff these guy's crank out. I wish I had the internet 10 years ago when i'd have 3 or 4 Z's around the house and burn money to lite midnight BBQ's. Want me to represent you Michael??? :devious: .

The ORIGINAL DATSUN 240Z was not fuel injected nor did they have electronic ignition. Jeez! Not everybody drives 280's. I thought this site was more for the 240Z. If you had a 240 before, then went and bought something that came after I guess that's cool. But when always making refrences to the 280Z/ZX models when talking about the 240 model, IMO I think it throws the thread off into a little chaos. :devious: Did you even read the thread from the start???

Carl & Mike, i'll buy that. That's more reasonable. The A/C system I knew about. They never looked right. Inside or out. Western? I have a set of Western "Cyclones" I believe they were called. 14" Mags with lots of skinny vanes. Very, Very light for the time. :devious:

280ZX Fever also check out www.modern-motorsports.com. It's up in Canada. Ross also make last of real trick brake kits. :devious:

www.arizonazcar.com makes these really big and bigger brake upgrade kits, and suspension parts for the Z. Check them out. Don't know about the importing part to you thought. From other members in the UK it sounds like a real bitch. Good Luck. :devious:

Also Very helpful is www.modern-motorsports.com for rear disc conversion using Nissan calipers.:devious:

Take a look over at www.arizonazcar.com The have some big race brake kits. :devious:

Aren't those aluminum rims the factory option rims. Isn't that why so many of us have them? There wasn't really many good looking after market rims to fit the Z. But I always thougfht that there were so many of these plane slotted rims because the factory put them out.? :devious:

Good it's not wise to mess with an other mans Z!!!!:devious: ROFL

That thing still in there sideways??? Is this the result of an actual practical joke on you??? :devious:

Very cool. Post some pictures Victor let everybody see what you got going on. Got any wiring diagrams on this upgrade. Where in LA are you? :devious:

I agree with 2ManyZs, to the extent that I can get stock rotors to heat up the point where my calipers will bind. Nice glazed rotors every shade of the rainbow. In the city. Other than that for everything else you get a witness. 'Amen brother. Very well put. Back to SteveK. Wow that's F&%#ed up. We should do something about getting the members like SteveK some way to get the trick stuff with out having to get rapped. There has to be some way to get other members these parts. I would hope if I was in this situation someone would want to help me out. And I hate people. But the members here are Z People!! 2ManyZs let me know via my email if I could in any way be of help to you or your mates over there! Cheers Frank. :devious:

For the Old Z's the flasher is thermo. :devious:

The ground trunk that you are describing is from the boating industry. Since boats are made from composites and fiberglass there is no way for current to return to the source, thus you have an incomplete circuit. Lately the aftermarket and repower sectors of the boating industry have gone to using mutiple battery gangs, good for hi/po & multiple engines. But for the other goodies and nick nacks that have become every day items that are all solid state and run off direct current. To complete these circuits in the boat the ground trunk evolved. usually one main ground with smaller branches coming off of it. That will all lead back to the source. This should work wonders for the Z if you wanted to rewire it. Better B+ feed to the system will require better ground return path. :devious: .

Isn't the one up in the steering column the key in ignition switch chime? This has two same colored wires runing from the back of the actual switch, through the covers, out with the rest of the wires up into the dash on the right side of the column. If I remeber it right. This might simply mean one of your pin switches is shorted closed. To disconnect it pull on e or both wires apart from their other half.:devious: There is a seat belt buckle switch running from the buckle to the warning lamp in th consul. I don't recall any of my Z's buzzing for the seat belts though. :devious:

DVOM=Digital, Volt, Ohm, Meter. Radioshack, harbor Frieght tools, Sears. Must be a Dvom with at least 10 Mega Ohms of internal resistance for good consistant readings and not frie anything in the car your are taking the readings from. E.g. The radio, ECU, aftermarket stand alon FI/timming control, fuses, etc. Idiot light at minimum. Logic probe better. A good set of crimper. Not the cheap ones, spend some $ on these. You will want to do better jobs because you have the right tool. Quality connectors. When need be that you have to hack off a terminal full of cancer, replace with a good quality terminal that does not use PVC for insulation. Seal any and all possible terminals or repaired connections, taps, new leads of wire with Heat Shrink wrap. Also before all that, a soldering iron would also be good. Solder all crimped connectors as possible. Then seal with the heat shrink. Wiring diagrams. Get them for your car and application from the manual and copy them. Enlarge them and make many copies. Draw on them write notes. Color them in for power, ground, etc. Learn how to read them. The color code chart, symbols, connectors, wire size. Then make sure you have aspirin!:devious:

No new reply's as to upgrading the electrical system with a few relays here or there. And rewiring the power supply, that would get the high current out of the cab and leave it were it would do the most good in the battery to be tapped into to drive all our little devices through simply relays. Leaving low current loads in the fuse box and interior switches???? No? :devious:

The reason for the by pass in the ignition circuit to the coil at start up is to apply direct battery voltage to the coil to facilitate start up. Not a regulated 12V. What ever makes it from the fuse box through all the wiring to the end terminal will be what is apllied to the coil windings. Once the car ramps up and starts the key is returned to the run position redirecting the ignition feed through the ballast resistor to drop down the voltage. The reason for this is TO keep the points from buring up too soon. The points are 6 volt tech. 12+ volts would eat them up yum. I have never had a coil burn up on me. Not even bypassing directly through the B+ side of the battery. the stock coils are filled with cooling oil to combat burning them out. I would also like to upgrade my dizzy to an electronic one to rid myself of the points. If you need spare parts to carry, strip a IC module off a bone yard car next time out and throw it in the tool box.:devious: