frank13

Wow grunt0311, lot's of good stuff. I PM you about three times trying to get that ball park figure from you. Wish I had known you had this stuff too. Would have taken half of it off your hands! Really needed a lot of this stuff. But looks like all the parts I needed are gonna sell.

26th-Z hit the nail right on the head with the smoke describtion! :devious:

Yes Motor oil can be used for a wet compression test. BUT IN VERY SMALL AMOUNTS!! One or less teaspoon or so. Any more can hydrostaticaly look up the cylinder that your are test. This can lead to bent rods/crank, broken piston ring lands. Not cool! :devious:

I hope the only took it like some of the members say for a one way ride. The other day (week) you passed me your nunber Victor. I don't Have it any where near me right now. But you said if you could be of any help to ring you up. So let me offer up my help. I'll PM you with my number so you can leave me a voice mail with your number. Post your VIN # here on the Club site for all the SoCal members to note. I always see almost every Zed that I come across. If I come across any that even remind me of your's i'll freaken stop and look. Also Posting your VIN might make anyone that might have looked in on the site, think about not keeping the car long. Avoiding further damage. And I am not saying that it could have been a member, only taking every step reasonable. Keep your hopes up Victor, Datsuns are easy to steal. Making them quick rides home. F@%&ed up!!!.

BMW? CIS or CISE. Both of which are mulitport fuel injection systems. My cousin had a 86 325E 5spd, posi. Real nice car. He couldn't get around to pass my POS '80 Audi 4000 1.6L VW motored 4 spd. Some engines have lots of revs but no torque. Some have lots of torque with no horsepower. The Z has both. Low numbers or not. When you can get in a 30 year old car and have that old engine slam you head back as you take off, that is not too shabby. If you look at cars just a few years ago, there was alot of talk for the cars like mitsu, mazda, honda, about having 150 ponnies. Wow it only took like 30 some odd years. They also do not tell you if it's at the flywheeel are drive wheels. So don't get down on the numbers. The Z is A lite car. It uses it's ponnies well. Remeber most new ( last 10 years) Asian cars (read economy here) are in the lower range than the Z. And weigh more. :devious:

You guy's forgot the rear hatch vent/piller/hatch emblems. Fuse block, tool boxes, and center console. Beandip, the "B" transmission was not an automatic. The "B" tranny was the trans with the bent stick shift. The "A" was the straight up and down one from the eary Z's. The Z that I miss the must was my Rootbeer brown '73. Even more than my first two eary '71's with the hatch vents. I still have the motor out of this car 11 years later. :devious: Carl your right about the heater controls! I did not remember that nice green light wheen looking for heat. There is nothing wrong with the '73. It's still an eary Z, with all the same potent L24 and IRS. :devious:

Hey Goose Check out Dave at www.arizonazcar.com He makes a 4 bbl conversion set up and has the kits to mount it up as well as the right carbs for this set up. Also has headers. :devious:

Hey all, yes speedy blue lower CG for the V8 will make for a bit better response in weight transfer. The LS1 is a 5.7L motor! Aluminum block, Croosbolted mains, very tight tolerances on the assembly of all parts in the block. Aluminum heads, mulitport FI. I got a small list here. All are Third Gen. Crossbolted. 5.7L "LS1" Aluminum. 12550592 97 up 12559378 99 up 12559846 98 up 12560621 98 up 12560629 99 12561168 01 up 12562175 98 up These are the more recent offerings from Chevy. There are other, older Aluminum Engines. But these are state of the art int terms of production quality and assembly. To use any of these motors from say a bone yard the way they are, you'd need the complete engine harness, sensors, fuel pump, relays, ECU from the donnor car. To use It's tranny Auto ot Stick, same thing get all the linkage and tranny harness(for lock up convert clucthA/T). The more bits and pieces you grab that go with the transplant set the easier it will be to fabricate the parts you will use. By either adapting the donnor parts or figuring how to make a new one that will work for your application. Having the original parts for reference helps. To use just the stock set up EFI you could also get an aftermarket wiring harness kit from somebody like "Painless" for the motor you want to use. There are a couple of other companies other than painless, with less expensive kits, but I don't remeber their names right now. Also i do not know if they are complete and ready to install for a running motor now or require modification. Such them being a general kit for a FI setup. I'll look for some of the threads/posts here for the T5. Post them latter or PM them to you since this is not the forum for that.Later:devious: Later 240Zdragon72, speedyblue.

Increasing the fuel pressure will make the mixture fater(richer). 240ZMan are you sure the rich mix is caused by the idle. Not the other way around? Low idle causes poor burn of mixture. Resulting in High HC's, which can be interpeted as rich. A Rich mix would be High CO. Of course this would require a n exhaust gas probe. CO burns the eye's and throat. Z's always smell a little nasty at the tailpipe. I did smogs for the states Referee program and I could never tell with a Z by smell. On the gas analyzer they run high CO and then Higher HC's. What do the plugs look like? Hows the ignition system? Are you running your PCV system? Check the function of your PCV valve. Pull it out and shake it about does it rattle? Is it gummed up? If so spray some carb cleaner in it to clean it out. Very intresting. Hope some of this gets you closer to the end solution. :devious:

I had this real nice reply all written out , then when I hit that submit button I wasn't logged in anymore. The gist of it was this is real cool that people from all over the world can talk about stuff from other oints of views. This is very good. I guess sometimes the differences in the way we all joke comes out a little wrong, but that is also cool. Because now we all see a little bit of the way of thinking from different folk. Can our elected officals do this good? Everyone of us has something in their own country that is large and grand. We should all be lucky enough to travel to an other members neck of the woods and see what good things there are to take in the way the locals see them. Your right Carl it is all good. When I bought my first Zed, there was no place like this. And Any Clubs where far away from me. I love this place. The members here I would not call conservative. Diverse and Mature, yes. No back to your normal witt. I have to get back to Alan's Thread I don't want to fall behind more pages. :devious:

Check under "interior, Blower fan wailing noise" :devious:

Do you have a Digital volt meter or DVOM (digital Volt Ohm Meter)? Check the cranking voltage by probing the the Pos+ and Neg- terminals of the Battery with the volt meter (red +, black -) while cranking the engine over, disarm your ignition by disconnecting power to the distributor so it won't fire. Take a reading with the car dead, no key on doors closed, everything off. Whats the voltage. Crank 5-10 seconds, no longer. Note the voltage. A fully charged battery will read 12.60 Volts or higher. If you want to get a better reading turn on the headlights for a few seconds to get ride of the static charge from the battery then take the base reading. During cranking the voltage should not drop below 9.5 to 10 Volts for a computer controlled car. Usually anything below 9.5 to 9 volts and the computer doesn't want to work or the injectors want fire properly. Injectors are 12 Volt jobs. But it sounds like your starter is the actual cause for your "hot soak' condition. The heat from the engine increases the internal windings resistence of the starter solenoid. Either replace the starter or solenoid would fix this. Autozone can order the Solenoid Wells Part #ss314 $25.99(for example). Or you can Wrap the starter with a thermo wrap or fabricate a heatshield out of a piece tin/ thin gauge sheet metal. Also Before spending any money, check the battery post/cable condition. IS there any green/white/yellow fuzzy stuff any where? If so clean with tap water solution of baking soda and the water. This will nutralize the acid in the corrosive build up. Then remove the battery cables and clean them with a battery clamp/post cleaner. Clean both sides of the battery and the cables. Also where the cables bolt up to the starter solenoid and starter ear(ground -). Check voltage again. Did this fix the problem? If not try the heatshield. you can also pull the starter and walk it in to Autozone or Kragens. They will be able to check it on a bench machine that will give you amprage draw. Which is a measurment of the starters effeciency. If out of speck the starter is faulty. The heatshield/wrap is still a good idea. Hope this helps. :devious:

Done Deal. :devious:

Hey MikeW, there is a '69 model. I saw big foot driving one once. . Other than the Hatachi( or how ever it's spelled) flat-top smog carbs, and the bumbers being pushed out with the black covers to fill the space, they had the fully reclining seats, intermitten wiper function, and the series II center console "B" transmission, electric supplemental fuel pump. As to which year is best to own, humm? ONE of EACH & EVERY YEAR! There is some rumor about the gauge of the shell stampings being thiner in the early years. And thus being lighter. Better from the performance stand point. Lighter weight gives better response as the same 2.4L has to move less weight. The other thing I know for fact in the early Z's is they used Fiberglass headlight buckets, then changed over to the recycled US army tank metal ones.(that was meant to be funny! Please don't dig into me for that joke!). The other wiser members like Alan that seem to have been around Z's since they came out might know more facts. :devious:

it's Ricks fault! :devious:

Damn Carl, I remeber reading other threads where other members comment on your speed of reply. I just seen Enrique post, and i'm sitting here getting my reply in oder. Bambikiller! I didn,t even see you logged on when I checked this thread out! I Agree, well said. Lets look at the West Coast Nats. Those of us that can go, go. Why? To see all the shinny Trick/stock Z's we can handle in a weekend. But how does this happen? MSA puts it on for "us" right? For themselves? For the other vendors? For everybody involved. The make PR/money, we see all the trick things we want up close and personal. We met the vendors/ each other. And if we are licky we might even save some coin. I saved about $50 -100 bucks last time. Still got fleeced. But We go anyway. We Still need something to do with OUR time and hard earned dough. When it's something like the MSA Z show it's all good. Right who doesn't love the crap out these cracker box cars HERE? But the rest of the world does other things with thier time and $. It's all good, all the time, everywhere. If it's not we wouldn't care if our beloved Z's ran or not. Don't know why this reply sounds the way it sorta does. It's Enrique's fault he kinda got deep there . :devious:

O crapola 240Zdragon72, we're you asking about american five speed like the T5's or T56. For the SBC thingie you wanted to do? If that's the case i'll help you with that too. First decide what engine you wanna use and the likes. This will take more work to get it to come out right. In tranny mounts mostly, then slave cylinder. But it can be done with a Small Block Chevy in the Z, just much much more expensive. These type trannys are prized in pro street and hot rodding circles. Drop me a line. Frank :devious:

O crap, some one else mentioned www.modernmotorsports.com for trick rear disk brake conversion kits. Get him Michael!!! For $400 your getting the Brembo rotors, Brackets, Dot SS lines, Hardware, ebrake adapters and hardware. Not bad Since this is the kit that would install the easiest. All bolt on parts, except for the hose hangers if I remeber right. The 240SX calipers out of the bone yard should still be in good order. ecp48 is correct, when snacthing the calipers from the breakers you have to get the hangers too. Since this looks like the hot(quick and smooth) set up I might start collecting these calipers from the better yards or real good breaker lots? :devious:

That also sounds good Enrique. For those of us who have space it's always good to save what little of these cars is left. For future use. As for mine, it's just dead. Motor wise. Theres all kids of rust and corrosion all overe the motor. So my thoughts are to just grab the honda piece being that it is newer, more powerful and more of them around. I hate waiting for the windows to defrost or even just being cold sucks. :devious:

What model Z? Which trans are you gonna use? I have noticed a few bits of info here and there in these forums. But they are more comments. I have looked through the drivetrain forum quick like but did not see a "how to" that would describe it in great detail. I find going to other clubs forums not too easy to navigate. Though IZCC seem to have much more tech articles. I think a group effort here by these fine members to produce a indepth "how to" for this very thing should be put together. Then A complete tech article could be posted proper like. Get back to me with your info and i'll help as much as I can. :devious:

Oouch!!!! Michael no more like two or three weeks ago when I was looking for bone yard performance swaps! So there! :devious:

Not at all IMO. Brother man, I still see lots of this type of questions with regards to the five speed conversion. Even though it's a simple swap. The way I learned it was made easy by Sal at MSA. When he still sold parts behind the counter all the time. Whatever tranny "B" series you use you either use the flywheel, clucth kit, fork from the engine or the donnor car. Slap the new trans in and use the drive shaft that fits that trans. some driveshafts are longer than others. I normally have like three driveshafts laying around because i always mix them up when swapping. that I will always have at least one shaft that fits what ever trans I used. sometimes you don't get the shaft when you buy the trans. :devious:

Hey Steve I also read some where that there is a way to use Maxima something or other, don't remeber where or if it was with Nissan OEM parts. From recent memory there was the 280ZX conversion that I guess people are custom doing themselves. The Arizona Z Car race kits. The Modern MotorSports LTD 240 SX kit. Which uses a custom bracket & E-Brake adapter. This kit also requires you to flip L to R E-brake cables to get the proper reach. And the very vauge Maxima set up. Also I think there was an early Z31 conversion (4bolt Z31's up to 8'84/'85). Which is also rumor. The 240SX is the one I will do. If I ever get the damn 15/16 M/C or brake system to work right first! O.K. Michael let's have it! O Wait a second. www.arizonazcar.com www.modernmotorsports.com O.K. now let's have it!!!! :devious:

Hey Beandip, is that a first Gen 12A Rx-7? :devious: