frank13

For the Old Z's the flasher is thermo. :devious:

The ground trunk that you are describing is from the boating industry. Since boats are made from composites and fiberglass there is no way for current to return to the source, thus you have an incomplete circuit. Lately the aftermarket and repower sectors of the boating industry have gone to using mutiple battery gangs, good for hi/po & multiple engines. But for the other goodies and nick nacks that have become every day items that are all solid state and run off direct current. To complete these circuits in the boat the ground trunk evolved. usually one main ground with smaller branches coming off of it. That will all lead back to the source. This should work wonders for the Z if you wanted to rewire it. Better B+ feed to the system will require better ground return path. :devious: .

Isn't the one up in the steering column the key in ignition switch chime? This has two same colored wires runing from the back of the actual switch, through the covers, out with the rest of the wires up into the dash on the right side of the column. If I remeber it right. This might simply mean one of your pin switches is shorted closed. To disconnect it pull on e or both wires apart from their other half.:devious: There is a seat belt buckle switch running from the buckle to the warning lamp in th consul. I don't recall any of my Z's buzzing for the seat belts though. :devious:

DVOM=Digital, Volt, Ohm, Meter. Radioshack, harbor Frieght tools, Sears. Must be a Dvom with at least 10 Mega Ohms of internal resistance for good consistant readings and not frie anything in the car your are taking the readings from. E.g. The radio, ECU, aftermarket stand alon FI/timming control, fuses, etc. Idiot light at minimum. Logic probe better. A good set of crimper. Not the cheap ones, spend some $ on these. You will want to do better jobs because you have the right tool. Quality connectors. When need be that you have to hack off a terminal full of cancer, replace with a good quality terminal that does not use PVC for insulation. Seal any and all possible terminals or repaired connections, taps, new leads of wire with Heat Shrink wrap. Also before all that, a soldering iron would also be good. Solder all crimped connectors as possible. Then seal with the heat shrink. Wiring diagrams. Get them for your car and application from the manual and copy them. Enlarge them and make many copies. Draw on them write notes. Color them in for power, ground, etc. Learn how to read them. The color code chart, symbols, connectors, wire size. Then make sure you have aspirin!:devious:

No new reply's as to upgrading the electrical system with a few relays here or there. And rewiring the power supply, that would get the high current out of the cab and leave it were it would do the most good in the battery to be tapped into to drive all our little devices through simply relays. Leaving low current loads in the fuse box and interior switches???? No? :devious:

The reason for the by pass in the ignition circuit to the coil at start up is to apply direct battery voltage to the coil to facilitate start up. Not a regulated 12V. What ever makes it from the fuse box through all the wiring to the end terminal will be what is apllied to the coil windings. Once the car ramps up and starts the key is returned to the run position redirecting the ignition feed through the ballast resistor to drop down the voltage. The reason for this is TO keep the points from buring up too soon. The points are 6 volt tech. 12+ volts would eat them up yum. I have never had a coil burn up on me. Not even bypassing directly through the B+ side of the battery. the stock coils are filled with cooling oil to combat burning them out. I would also like to upgrade my dizzy to an electronic one to rid myself of the points. If you need spare parts to carry, strip a IC module off a bone yard car next time out and throw it in the tool box.:devious:

Very impressive site. Much more impressive prices for the hi/po parts. No offense taken Carl. I just wanted to let out some part numbers and very local options. AutoZone is nation wide. Yes lifetime parts can be a crap shot because of the process of remarketing used parts. At the same time lots of the parts can be new. The parts I listed were new. Also my '71 doesn't have the supplemental electric pump. If any of the members also diddn't have it and wanted to add to the existing system with out losing all thier beer money for the weekend this is not a bad deal. Then again the prices of those facet pumps is very worth the few extra bucks & the wait to be shiped. But any time i can find parts for our rides I would like to share them as options to keep them running:devious:

Hey ecp48, also here in the states there is Dave at www.ariaonazcar.com He also makes trick brake upgrade kits. Real trick looking stuff. As well as engine performance pieces. Suspension.:devious:

Check out www.modern-motorsports.com Ross has many different options for rotors and pads. He is very, very helpful. So is his site, lots of good information there. He's in Canada so I think he'll have a good idea about those swaps.:devious:

the early 240Z's had bullet type connectors. Then '73's up had spade type. not sure about the later 280Z/ZX with a "L" type connector. The post I believe you refer to was about after market senders not being accurate The same post also said that Nissan couldn't make them last more than a couple months.:devious:

Hey bambilikker240, looking at Steve & Mark's rides I would figure them wanting the best part the could buy with out paying outrages prices like for a brake upgrade kit from say a Euro tunners shop. At $100 bucks for cross drilled and slotted rotors, that by the post seem to be stock replacement items IMO is not a deal. The stock solid rotors where not great when heated. Reduce material from said rotor to cool is not cool. Bigger then cut into would be better. My cousin bought a set of "Power stop" cross drilled deals for his 2000 Chevy Xtreme S-10. And they make noise, rattle, but do not seem to be any better. So what is it worth to stop better after you get her to run faster.:devious:

Hey Brian, what conversion are you actually talking about? Brake upgrades or lug stud upgrades? Or both. $400 for a 4 to 5 lug upgrade? Why did front and back brakes on only one side start to leak all of a sudden? Sounds a little odd, the brake system is divided front to back, not side to side. Where are you getting the prices for your parts that you mentioned and what parts are they?:devious:

Hey clutchdust, check out the wheel adapters from Ross Corrigan at www.modern-motorsports.com Every time I see some cheesey honda with really great looking rims I think of these adapters. I mean rims that would look really great on a Z.:devious:

You guys should look at www.arizonazcar.com & www.modern-motorsports.com Both make trick big break kits. :devious:

Hey zrush have you be chance checked the struts?:devious:

Hey Carl last week on Friday it's raining like crazy and my cousin decides to close shop to go motorcycle hunting. In salvage dealers. Outside! Anyway we live in LA, so we are on the 605 N, when I see an old tow truck that reads "Dismantlers, Santa Rita road, Pleasanton CA. I half turned around to check if they where hauling a Z. :devious:

Thanks Lance, next time I go to the bone yard i'll be armed with my measuring tape. Then I will see just what is going to really be involved. I also like them when I seen them at the breakers. Seats where in very great condition, except for ONE rip on drivers. Which was repairable. I hope the size fit as compared to stock 240 seats. $20 bones a seat is not too bad for updating the comfort level.:devious:

If anybody shops at AutoZone Here are some part numbers I went and looked up thinking of you 240 owners. For an OE type pump I found Beck/Arnley #151-5725 $66.90. This is not a lifetime warranty pump. I did not pull one out of the box to check it out. I realize now that I should have. I will go back to do this latter. For those of us that have '70-'72's I found a universal pump. Master universal fuel pump #E8016S. This is wired through the oil pressure switch according to the instructions. 2.5-4.5 lbs. 12V. This is a lifetime warranty pump. Which means at AutoZone if it ever goes out you get a new one free. $34.99. Comes with a bracket and acouple pieces of hose. Nice little kit for stock carbs. They also had a couple other pumps for much more. Also if any one is looking for AutoZone wire sets which are also LLT try part # 9677. These are for a 80-83 810 Maxima (L24E). Green box are red 7mm wires look cool but not made any more. Black/orange box are black. Look stock and are also 7mm. Not bad for $18.:devious:

Hey 2adz, Got any info on the way you wired up the maxi fuse box and where you bought it? I read some where once about some one who changed over to maxifuse something or the other. At the time I thought he ahd changed over from the original in dash fuse box. I looked and loked for information on this conversion, if it even existed to no fruition. :devious:

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Make sure all the above checks out. Then check Battery voltage. If below 12.60 Volts, dcharge it up on low amps. 5 to 10 amps for a while. 12.66 and above is fully charged voltage for a 12V car battery. Once charged chck cranking vlotage at the battery. If below 9volts replace battery and or check your charging system. Under 9.5 volts computer controlled cars will not want to work. If that checks out, then check your ignition module. How do you know the coil is good?:devious:

What the hell does a 240K look like??? Better yet what the hell is a 240K. (it's Aussie for a Z right?) What that's Fosters for beer. Yum, Fosters.:devious: