frank13

Hey guys you can good budget willing, can pump out 700 or so ponnies from a good 'ol chevy small block. 350, 355, 383, 400. N/A to forced. Most V8 conversions I have seen have all been real pertty, but not heavy on motor. Jags that run, MotorsportAuto, And John's Z sell conversion kits for the bow tie SB.

Hey ZHadMan I just wanted to know if YOUR personal preference for a new harness is updating it for better performance, better lighting, less weight, simplicity, etc. etc. Or just remaking a flawed harness new? I have thought many a time on stripping any of my Z's and ripping out every bit of wire from the cabin I could find. Then using what was left from the rear(updating the connectors) rewiring everything from the bulkhead foward and using current tech to have a nice ride with all it's light working. No Car B.Q. etc. etc. I run a relay for my headlights from a toggle switch from switched power. Sure would be nice if we could do everything we needed to do from the drivers seat with out all those high amps to melt your new combo switch or fuse block. Just asking. I don't think high performance is high. I think it just works. If you could come up with something like that in a harness, then Amen!!:devious:

Like suggested first, the best set up for the 73 L24 is the early SU's. 70-72, lose the smog stuff(airpump, decel valve, egr, all the stuff that can be ripped of the intake and plugged or blocked. Make sure what ever early year you can find complete to get all the parts for the throtle links. Besides the carbs which should be able to out run or stay ahead of a Mazda rotary 13B RX7 first Gen. when set up right by someone who knows Datsun and SU's. Have you tuned it up? Are your feed and return fuel lines at the tank in good condition. It also sound like your head gasket is going south. It happens, I have had two of my Z's blow head gaskets and still run. One still ran on the freeway (not much past 70 mph). Good luck. Is any one going to answer how to open the hood?:devious: