frank13

The Stereo is not hooked up right. Take it back and stand around the car while they check it out. This pissed of customer bit goes a lot further than the the cool calm collected sap that doesn't look because he has NO idea what's really going. They don't really know if you do or don't. If you act like the sap they''ll treat you like one. Hence shity work. The amp(s) are left on draining the juice even if the car is of. Being that they hook up high powered amps directly to the Battery's Positive terminal. If the remote turn on lead isn't hook up to the radio, and instead to another device or another amp(s) . Or the hook up to the Z's wiring is not the best manner in which to run what you got hooked up a ground loop could keep components on that you do not see like the radio's face ( big and bright and obvious). Don't get it fixed, scare them by telling them that you are going to reort them to the Better business bureau. :devious:

HELL, what about the rest of the car?????? :devious:

Make sure every little thing you disconnected to make room to work is reconnected! Sounds like your AFM is not hooked up. :devious:

NOT! Dude, Western are true Mags. Very,very lite. The picture posted are steel rims. Very heavy. Like PrOxLaMus said. :devious:

When & how soon could we have them? Like maybe but the MSA show? Long sleeves also sounds cool!:devious:

Of a speedy recovery and a long healthy motherhood! Best wishes to you and yours Gary. Frank.

Seems that most 14" rims will not fit on the rear 240SX disc break upgrade kit From MML. Ross said that "some have fit, but very few". Also if running the 4X4 W/ 11" 300ZX roto upgrade kit the 14" in rim will not fit. If not running the front kit but only the rear try a trail fitment. Maybe if the rims you already own just kiss the outside of the new calipers, you might be able to just shave a bit off to just be able to get them on. The Front caliper upgrade kit will clear 14" rims on the stock rotors. hope this Helped. :devious:

Your hood v12horse? My NOT stock L24, round tops, and a couple other little things still have the idle rock solid at 750 RPM's. Even in a state of distune for the SUs. When in perfect tune on order same thing. Whatcha' running under the hood? Why did your mechanic do an ignition tune up? Hell you could have done that yourself easy. How did he lower the idle? Is this guy and old school bad arse Nissan wrench? or just A mechanic? Even if he was a very good younger Technician he has to know Datsuns and the SU's. Any monkey can monkey around. I have 5 ASE's and I get my Su's done be a couple of brothers who used to race Datsuns with their father back when. These guys know how to tune my carbs flat out right the first time. I trust them. If you can,t trust your tech with at least a '96 and above lets say BMW, He shouldn't be laying hands on your Zed! Why didn't he sell the full tune up, Air cleaner, oil/filter change, fuel filter, PCV, Points(?), timing? Also hear any hissing around the top or any where theres vacum hoses? :devious:

indyzprez Your asking about the 240SX conversion right. Like 2ManyZs I seem to remeber the 15" rim being minimum. Being that I figured the purchase of one of these kits around 15 to 16" rims. :devious:

Hello Mike just wondering where in So Cal You are located. How much for the 15's, since the sblake got the yokohamas that would have looked killer on my Western mags 15's will have to do on my 15" Turbos.

David I could not find the information I wanted to share with you about the gear oil classifications. And What I got from useless SAE sites and the likes was nothing but the impression that GL-#'s can apply to diferent weight oils.?. I pertty sure I had this information once somewhere. I must have it in storage. Sorry. The Mobil one is pertty trick Stuff. Synthetic oils are cool because it'll have the shear properties of 140w, but not flow lick a conventional 140w. Also if any body ever gets a deal on ?Honda oils take it. Honda oils are made by mobil. The honda they sell at the parts dept is Honda synthetic is Mobil1. :devious: .

David i'll look up the GL ratings tommorow and see if i have the conversion table some where around the shop or in one of the newer manuals lying around. Then i'll get back to you on this thread. Cool. :devious: .

Good going sledz. Now you can come on down and get mine going.Like wayne said, bet it feels real cool. :devious: .

Hey zeiss150, man you need to talk to phred and nixcars. Both these cats build engines. So what did I win Matt? A piece of fine glass optics with the initials C. Z., and made in Austria on it??? Huh, huh, huh???? I'll settle for an A16 or A12 back:D Or maybe a speedlight for my A2E? :classic: There is a site I don't remeber the address and I could not find me book mark for it anymore, but it's at geocities. I'm sure if bambikiller sees this thread he'll chime in. I'm pertty sure Carl or one of the others knows the guy I refer to. He has this one page comparing the differnt blocks and heads with pros and cons for different combos, also with the common Z problems. All one one page. Good stuff. Sorry I don't have it handy. If the others don't come up with a link by tommorow i'll look for my hard copy and pass on the link for you. :devious: .

Hey zeiss150, in your other thread about this phred was the member I had in mind when I said some of the other members that actually build Engines. You can also get new pistons ordered with valve reliefs already cut out of the piston. I'm glad you got your answer. Sorry I diddn't get that part of the question. But from what I understand from other members and read from phreds post he is the right man to have got the answers from. :devious:

For the members living in and around So. Cal Tep is in north hollywood. They have a in house machine shop and everything done by them is performance. If you check www.racetep.com , Go to the datsun Z section, look for the engine asssembly work available with the $ amount for different machine work. :devious:

Hey Vicky I think the T-top conversion looks trick. There was a kid who had his red Z in ZCAR.com as car of the month with t tops and some other trick body work. As far as structure I agree the Z is not the strongest unibody and some sort of reenforcement should be made as well as aftermarket safety upgrades. I wouldn't mind this type of conversion on say a 260 Or very early 280 with thin bimbers or the MSA bumber covers. Just my 2 centavos. :devious:

Wheres kyteler and Alfadog when you need them? :devious:

Hey David, for just changing gear oil I use the regular (conventional) 80w-90. But if the tranny or rear end has been treated like a redheaded step child after you change with this weight it will feel smoother, but since it was abused the internal clearence for the gears will have increased. Leading to failure, even with freash oil. Changing the oil might actually lead to the failure sooner than latter being that all the tinny metal dust is suspended in the old used oil filling the extra clearence where it once was. In this case you will need to step up to thicker gear oil. A lot of companies are now offering blended (conventional/synthetic) and pure synthetic lubes. The Blends being down the middle road in price. But still offered in the same weights. They offer better protection in the form of being harder to break down. And smoother flow regardless of temp. Usually for a LSD when using Conventional type gear oil an addative is used, the Diff might have a tag attached to one of the cover bolts or the FSM will have(should) that information. I don't remeber off the top of my head but I seem to remeber that some LSD's were using Synthetic oils(late models), and the early types used an addaditve to fight the oil from breaking down due to added shear forces internal to the LSD assembly. I believe you might be able to use striaght synthetic in a LSD. IF I am mistaken someone please correct me (thanks) Hope this was of help Panchovisa.:devious:

By the way Does zeiss150 refering to a Hassy lens? :devious:

zeiss150, hey what's up. The Forum for your query whould be better searched in the 240z,260z, 280z Forum under engine. Use the search function with words like F54, head swaps, engine combos. Also try going back all the way to the beginning of the posted threads in the blue bar at the bottom. Flycutting the pistons. Can't help you on that one. some of the other members that build Motors might. 9.5 C/R on 87 pump gas. As gas stations don't always keep the tanks only full of gas but also alcohol to combat water intrussion in the storage tanks, you taking you chances on melting your toy. It will also depend on the condition and ability of your cooling system. As well as were you set your timing at. Turbo engines have dished pistons to lower compression. Help this will help. :devious:

Hey Ben, When you restarted you Z did it cut out back at the same speed on the freeway that it cut out at the first time? If so it sorta sounds like a dirty/clogged fuel filter. If the filter is getting clogged it could run fine at lower speeds with less demand on the fuel system. But up at speed it'll starv itself till it stalls. Rather abrublty. Anybody else have this happen besides me? I have also had the battery relocate itself (read having too much fun) and not be aware of it tipped over leaking Acid on #5&6 spark plug leads. Which also did this when ever the wires moved just right to both ground out. come to think about it I think #4 was also eaten by acid. so three out of six were grounding. :devious:

Ross C. At www.modernmotorsports.com Makes wheel adapters for mounting Honda rims to the Zcar. I have a set out back of my Z. running stock honda rims and tires. If I bend one up I can get one at any tire shop on any corner in LA! :devious:

on 73 and above were used in combination with the mechanical fuel pumps to combat vapor lock due to heat soaks that lead to fuel starvation and mechanical fuel pump cavitation. Which leads to a no start/hard start condition. The heat soak evaporates the fuel in the lines before the carbs had a chance to do their jobs leading to the vapor lock in the lines. The factory installed the electric pump to combat this hot start condition. This is always what I have been told and considering the function of the '73's flat top boat anchors is reasonable. Except for the fact that all HLS30's have the electrical connector at the rear harness location for the pump and fuel level sender. Also my '73 with round tops in every '71 or '72 I have had it reside in has never had a fuel starvation or heat soak condition. Ever. If you want to know for sure what the motor is doing and when it's doing it for sure, make friends with your local Datsun tech at a shop. Or the local Smog Guy who likes Z's. Then check the z on one of thier Tail pipe sniffers when cold, hot, both pumps, mechanical pump solo, then electric pump solo. Print out each samples page to compare of the dyno or tailpipe probe. This is the ONLY way you will know for sure whether the car goes rich or lean when ever you do or make it do what it's doing when it goes wrong. Good Luck! :devious:

Very true dspillman! My oversight. :devious: