frank13

zeiss150, hey what's up. The Forum for your query whould be better searched in the 240z,260z, 280z Forum under engine. Use the search function with words like F54, head swaps, engine combos. Also try going back all the way to the beginning of the posted threads in the blue bar at the bottom. Flycutting the pistons. Can't help you on that one. some of the other members that build Motors might. 9.5 C/R on 87 pump gas. As gas stations don't always keep the tanks only full of gas but also alcohol to combat water intrussion in the storage tanks, you taking you chances on melting your toy. It will also depend on the condition and ability of your cooling system. As well as were you set your timing at. Turbo engines have dished pistons to lower compression. Help this will help. :devious:

Hey Ben, When you restarted you Z did it cut out back at the same speed on the freeway that it cut out at the first time? If so it sorta sounds like a dirty/clogged fuel filter. If the filter is getting clogged it could run fine at lower speeds with less demand on the fuel system. But up at speed it'll starv itself till it stalls. Rather abrublty. Anybody else have this happen besides me? I have also had the battery relocate itself (read having too much fun) and not be aware of it tipped over leaking Acid on #5&6 spark plug leads. Which also did this when ever the wires moved just right to both ground out. come to think about it I think #4 was also eaten by acid. so three out of six were grounding. :devious:

Ross C. At www.modernmotorsports.com Makes wheel adapters for mounting Honda rims to the Zcar. I have a set out back of my Z. running stock honda rims and tires. If I bend one up I can get one at any tire shop on any corner in LA! :devious:

on 73 and above were used in combination with the mechanical fuel pumps to combat vapor lock due to heat soaks that lead to fuel starvation and mechanical fuel pump cavitation. Which leads to a no start/hard start condition. The heat soak evaporates the fuel in the lines before the carbs had a chance to do their jobs leading to the vapor lock in the lines. The factory installed the electric pump to combat this hot start condition. This is always what I have been told and considering the function of the '73's flat top boat anchors is reasonable. Except for the fact that all HLS30's have the electrical connector at the rear harness location for the pump and fuel level sender. Also my '73 with round tops in every '71 or '72 I have had it reside in has never had a fuel starvation or heat soak condition. Ever. If you want to know for sure what the motor is doing and when it's doing it for sure, make friends with your local Datsun tech at a shop. Or the local Smog Guy who likes Z's. Then check the z on one of thier Tail pipe sniffers when cold, hot, both pumps, mechanical pump solo, then electric pump solo. Print out each samples page to compare of the dyno or tailpipe probe. This is the ONLY way you will know for sure whether the car goes rich or lean when ever you do or make it do what it's doing when it goes wrong. Good Luck! :devious:

Very true dspillman! My oversight. :devious:

TTDRIVER, You were looking right at the head casting stamping (which is which head you have). The block casting stamp is on the flat boss to the left (of red circle below #5 spark plug.) and just below the block deck. These are L24, L26, L28, followed by serial numbers. TT it looks like you have the original motor/head, if the block is stamped L24. the head is a rare (now) early head.

"Don't take the car, you'll kill yourself!!!!!!!!!!!!! . :devious:

Hey Auxilary, wasn't the LSD outa' the Z31's also a VLSD assembly? The SS (Showroom Stock) White 300ZX's that came with the LSD? Or i'm I thinking or otherwise confussing model/year? I believed these to be the VLSD from the factory. :devious:

Hey Landmizzle, What did you end up Doing? Did you check out TEP's flywheels? How or what ended up happening to your ride? If you checked out TEP's site under the Datsun link to the lightened flywheel section they list the stock small flywheel and larger (friction area) of the 280ZX T/2+2 to the wieght they cut them down to. Just wondering how your ride came out. :devious:

Hey Nick, What are you using those rods on? What did the L14 come out in? :devious:

Is the kit that you are refering to the coil over upgrade kit? All four conners for I think it used to be around $800 +? I have been to TEP, and they are very much into the high performance engineering for our Z cars. :devious:

Just for that crack now i'm not! . :devious:

Just means it running! . What does it smell like? Does it burn your eyes and throat. Or just sorta make you wanna throw up? You state that you rebuilt the engine and head and all that, but no mention about you induction, tune up parts or the like. What year/model? Like the senior members would say the more info given the better the chances someone will respond with help! :devious:

I agree the LSD is IMO the best for the street. Acks like A locker in the straights or under heavy loads (ride nasty launches!). But leaves the diff open for going around corners. Which is what the open diff was developed for. Back in the olden days there wasn't open diff and the solid axles would not last long. Any way $250 in AUD's is a bit less in USD's, so it would seem like a deal for the ring gear set. :devious:

"Hump, Death? Hump, Death? It's good to be the king!" :devious:

As this thread started with the mention of LSD's and not full out locked diffs, my reply was directed at what would seem to be a street driven Zed. Gav? Not a full out road race car. HKSZ Mentioned a friends 1600 circuit car? Regardless of it's "fairly common in road racing" Zvoiture, it is not for the street. If me and my friends are using them for the 1/4 mile on cars that either get trailered there or not driven in the tight twisties then that means lockers are not for the street. 2ManyZ's, thank you for the quick break down on the suspension. Gav is that $250 in AUD's? :devious:

Warped Head causes blown gasket and vice-a-versa. But you said by head gasket? Not much point in tuning her right if she won't tune. You also said that it idles fine. Would not be true if you had a blown head gasket or warped head problem. The part in your question looks like a "Thermo Time" switch. Usually use in the EFI system for cold start warm up through either the Pressure regulator or the cold start injector, or both. I do not have the Shop book for your model so I am only refering to the basic Bosch J system. It also sound like Ignition misfire at a certain RPM. like stated earlier check plugs. And the wires & coil. Good luck. :devious:

Don't do it Gav! sorry HKSZ, but lockers are for DRAG RACING! Not Cornering. Gav You will not like the results. Lockers can be made by different companys. Under different types of methods to LOCK both axles. Spools, Detroit lockers, etc. etc. YOU WILL NOT GET THE expected results going in to or coming out of a corner that you might be thinking of Gav. Lockers are good for going STRIGHT! No wear and tear on LSD clutch plates and the such for high horsepower trips DOWN THE STRIP @ a 1/4 or 1/8th at a time! HKSZ I have never heard of any one using a locker for Racing in any thing other than Drag racing. What other modification and how did you set up your sway bars to counter the effects of a LOCKED DIFF coming out of a corner at speed? :devious:

Bottom, NO tail. :devious:

Saturday :devious: .

Ohm out the solenoid of the injector with a DVOM or A very good cheap(?) Ohm meter. compare to factory specs. Grap an injector and a 9 volt battery. Connect one side of the battery to one injector terminal. And while holding the injector connector the other side. You should feel a click. Pull them out and have them flow tested. Very expensive. That's the three quick ways I can think of off the top of my head. A 6 injectors don't just go bad a once. It's proably something else. Unless there is a factory recall for bad parts like the Z31 injectors. Toasty! :devious:

Gunnerrob how did you get them balanced ON THE CAR?? The only method I am aware of to balance A tire on the car is a very old method to balance Bias ply tires. It required a drum and motor to spin the rim/tire while a very sharp blade "trimmed" the tread somewhats round. This was called "Speed Balancing". The end result was a larger more even contact patch. But this was for Bias ply tires. What are you refering to? A yeah you asked. Those rims are IMO ugly! Sorry. :devious:

is the KETCHUP dripping from my burger while I shop! :devious:

Hey Carl It seems nobody elde will reply to that ?. About the number of plugs in the rear cargo area of the '73. Yes I know which grommets you are refering to. There is also the grommets for the tail light wires that come out of the bottom. The plugs that I was speaking of I have never seen. Like I said I was refering to an other members post here. Like you Bambi killer I will wait for a younger more flexable member to find them and report on their existance! :devious: