frank13

The really freaky part is I'm still as old as my first Zed. But my present Z is older Than me. But Still 30+. Crap! :devious:

Hey Carl. Yes there are more. but the question I was answering was about the passenger side footwell/floorboard. Going father rear, you have a couple small plugs in the luggage area, that are set in box looking cut out. But they aren't actually cutouts?? Then there's the large size drain plug in the spare wheel tub. And from a post i read here there are a couple of small plugs somewheres in the rear wheel wells. Never seen these. But the last time I diassembled a Zed it was very dark & cold. :devious:

O yeah wasn't it "... naked in front of the fridge with a bowl of jello" ? :devious:

"Real Genius" . Also The number of ribber plugs in the passenger side of a '73 HLS30 is 6. The front 2 are for the a/c lines. If you have a/c then the number drops to 4. The two big ones under the carpet under your feet are drain plugs, as the two smaller ones behind the seat. :devious:

Datsunfreak, bummer. I took it for granted that everything after like '70 came with power assist brakes. But thats discs. SOrry for not me very clear you guy's as it was late and I was still at work :mad: . Real nice 510. Got pics of it in your gallery? I don't think you will very much like the feel of the Z with out the Master Vac. GO through you Brake system. People tend not to service the fluid the way it should be done. I think it will vastly improve your feel. O yeah, the brake pedal is one of the STRONGEST parts of the car. The assembly that it attaches to is also pertty big. And of considerable weight. Again both really nice shots of your 510! What did you shoot it with??? :devious:

Hey RB30-ZED, what's up? I don't think What I wanted to say and what I wrote come across very well. Let me try to clarify it. I was talking about the service life of the seals in a 30+ car. The constant pressure instead of applied for short periods of time IMO will wear them out. Besides the fact that if this is to be driven on the street it would have come with a different set up if NON Power brakes were used. It is NOT. NOR was it ment to be used in this fashion. I speak from experience. More than one time have I been to cheap to replace the Master Vac With original brake system components. And more than once have I shot the entire system! Hoses & M/C. You are speaking of a race proven system designed and used on the track. Race components are not designed for long CONSTANT service life. They are built to be constantly rebuilt after short hard service life. You system that you are talking about has been adapted to what you want in a brake sytem not using the stock M/C or pedal/rod ratio. Datsunfreaks Zed is stock. Different animal all together! :devious:

O yeah. Check to make sure that your M/C is not Bypassing internaly.. Which if slight leakage might also feel sorta spongy. :devious:

Spongy you say? Air. And More Air! Bled the holy crap out of them. Can I get a witness! 510's don't have pwer assit? Or your Vacumbooster just out? 510 does not create the power/torque that the Z does. 510's have disc/drum set ups just s the Z With Vacum power assit. What color is your brake fluid bro? If any thing other than slightly tinted clear like brown, black, or freash motor oil, it's contaminated with water. Unless it's the purple DOT5 or some racing brand synthetic stuff. Datsunfreak check your front and rear brake lines. When these go south the outer rubber shell cracks and splits. Allowing the inner one to expand as it pushes the outer layer about which gives a spongy feel. The air is much more noticable as the pedal will travel with a springy feel. The water one is less springy but will allow to drive the car and still sorta stop as opposed to not having any brake with the air. Check brake fluid resevior for fluid condition/color. Check brake lines for condition. If lines are still good bleed the crap outa the system. Try braided lines. Late! :devious:

put it best "WHAT GA SMOKING MAANNNNN!!!!" Ever drive a car as fast as a Zed with NO Power assit???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? Besides feeling like you have no brakes till the end of the brake pedal travel, unless your a granny and have the time to be pumping and hold them all the time. Your Zed is fatter than the 240Z. More weight=longer stopping distance= more time needed to avoid all the stupid people out on the road! The extra constant high pressure needed to do the job will wear out your master and seals at the calipers and RWC's. Trust ME! Think about it, if you have to pump your pedal 2 to three time to build pressure instead of just appling the brakes once you 2X-3X the work load of your system. All parts have a basic "in use "life span. Lines swell and burst, then there will be even less stopping power! Lots of fun! Also instead of having a nice even feel you'll be that much closer to locking them up and skidding instead of maintaining an even and controlable stop (= accident). My two cents. :devious:

Problem. But my Zed would say "Get outttt"! Took it to the local Priest. Took care of that (ajusted lock plates like 240znz said). But the Father did bless her. Which did get the lights to work after dark. With burnt fuse box and NO FUSES! No F%$#^@G joking!!! This thread reminded me about the poor people that rode in her when she'd pop a door open . :devious:

Hey SER240Z, If you need to bring your Zed down to the shop tommorow. We're in Bell Gardens. Just down the 710 from your neck of the woods. Or striaght down Garfield, left on Florence. Let me Know if need be. PM me if you wanna check it out. Later :devious:

Are the actual heater hoses from and to the engine block intact and functional? Are they carring water to and from the heater core? Or is it bypassed? Like Enrique said if all the above is good and true, the water pump would constantly be pumping the coolant through your heater core. Constant heat. Does your engine run at a normal operating temp?

O man. Grnskyline, drive to the muffler shop with the exhaust open :devious: :devious: :devious: :devious: :devious: :devious: Then let them weld it up nice and tight. But drive it that way just for the fun of it! If you never heard a Z with only the exhaust manifold on,,,,,, O man your missing out!!!!! I left My Entire exhaust off for three months, except for the Exhaust manifold. She would shoot flames out the end of the collector that you could light a Cigar up with ( blue, orange, yellow, all the colors of the rainbow, very beautiful thing to behold . :devious:

That's what the LogicProbe is for. Finding the grounds that he has been following the wire leads for. Along with a Shop manual Volt/Ohm meter & the Logic Probe or TestLight. 77 Z does NOT have to FIND EVERY Ground, just verify the ones that he has alredy found and check the electrical condition of the connection. O yeah, the black wire is NOT ALWAYS the Ground! :devious:

77 Z, Dude no need to get fancy with ground straps. No need for taping them up. You'll hate it later when you need to work with them again and the stupid black electrical tape slips and slides everywhere. Leaving a nasty stickie residue all over your hands and everything you touch! The thing you should be doing is like Beandip said, checking and cleaning the actual connections. Most EFI gremlins come out when the grounds go bad (poor connection=high resistance=poor performance=shitty ride!). So if you really want to know what these little branches do or go to your gonna need the shop manual. A good test light, LogicProbe would be be real, real good, and a volt/ohm meter. A good solid connection has less than 0.2 V drop across it. Good luck. :devious:

Hey Ed doesn't the Pic of Disposition's fan clutch (fan2) look just like the one on the right that you posted? Hum??? sblakeo1, the fan hit the top. If the bearing walks through the actual water pump housing the fan assembly + shaft will go through the RAd. If it just got a little silly and lose it could jam into the lower lip of the TOP tank. Or more like what happened here, the blades jammed under the fan blade shield. Which in it self tells me the engine might not be aligned properly. Or possible also wrong radiator! Maybe the PO when swapping over to the wrong Fan Clutch, also swapped the wrong RAD? Hey Disposition Sweat Looking ride! Hate you!!!! Got any pics in your Gallery? My first '71 was that color. Hated it, NOW I miss it dearly!!!!!! When you gonna do a compression test?? :devious:

Also, have you checked your motor mounts lately?? To me it also looks a bit too low and could also have moved foward. Just something else to check. If motor mounts are bad or tweaked the motor could walk foward and kiss the RAD. :devious:

Wrong fan clutch! The fan is to far foward. There should be at least two inches of space between the FAN and the rad core. The pics of your set up shows the wrong clutch. The fan blade sit over the fan clutch. so that when installed it covers the clucth. your has the wrong one. That looks like the clucth from the old engine, which does not work with the plastic fan blade. Or the PO installed it wrong. MSA or somebody sold a kit to upgrade the metal fan blade to the plastic one. Maybe the PO tried that but did it wrong. Or just put the plastic blade on the old clucth. I tried this during an engine change, it doesn't work. If I remeber right it also sat to far out and I couldn't get it in past the rad. :devious:

datsunfreak. The ones on your ridr. Hey GunnerRob, My first Z had the same rims. Still have them. But the PO told my they where Western "Cyclones" Mags. Actual mag/alloy. Very light. I have never compared them on the scale, but the seem light much light than my Turbo Z rims. Any more info on those in datsunfreaks photo? :devious:

I agree with Carl. Sounds like the waterpump shaft walked. Waterpump failure. Bearing went south, shaft/fanblade wlaked far enough to hit the radiator. Is there any Back and forth play to the shaft? Side to side? either is not good. If indeed the water pump is bad you could try to swap it out if you have basic hand tools. 10mm socket/wrench. 12, 13, 14mm sockets. Big screwdriver. Not too hard. But then there is the ? of head warpage. If the water pump did go south you could pull it of, after draining what ever coolant remains in the engine and give it a compression test. If any cylinders are more than 20 percent lower than the rest or two have equally low readings you have a blown Head Gasket. Most of the time from my experience 5 & 6 go bye bye. Good luck. Also check your thermostat! :devious:

Damn good Victor! :devious:

with Ed. Good Chain or bumber jack can work all sorts of wonders. I fell asleep once between jobs looking for parts at the breakers and wrapped the front end of my 87 300ZX around a steel signal pole. Right in the muddle of the bumper. Fixed it with a comealong, chain and the bumper jack. Bought a used radiator, and reused the original bumper cove all for $200. :devious:

So how did this pinging problem end Zedguy??? Bye the bye. Was the cylinder head shaved? What was the reason for the rebuild anyway? Was it really pinging, because advancing the dizzy timming would only make pinging worse. Not Get Rid Of It! Sounds like a scracthed rocker arm. Or A bad bearing somwhere. :devious: