frank13

The extra cost of Aviation fuel is passed on to the consumer who buy's the plane ticket. Every time the oil companies raise the cost of a barrel of crude oil the cost of ALL fuels GOES UP! Using a higher than needed Octane fuel can also have adverse effects on computer controlled OBD II cars from the OEM's. Older non-computer controlled Z's like the 240Z will just run slower. As mentioned by MikeW high octane race fuel is used when the increase in Compression Ratio is leading to DETONATION (or pressure increased due to the build up of carbon deposits, which can also lead to PREIGNITION due to hot carbon deposits igniting the fuel/air charge before the spark ignition). The increase in the Octane rating is a measure of the rate at which the fuel will burn. Higher Octane fuel has a sort of higher flashpoint, for lack of a better example. The consistency of the fuel is better and will burn at a more uniform rate than lower octane fuels. But is Only needed in high performance engines. That have high compression ratios. That's why race fuels are always high rated octanes, such as the 76 race fuels, Trick, etc. Using High octane 92/93 or race gas 100+) in stock motors can lead to damage to internal parts (e.g. crank, rods, piston ring lands) on tight tolerence computer controlled modern engines. And fouled plugs on the cars that can not ignite the entire fuel/air charge. The slower burn will also decrease accelaration. You should only use the highest rated octane gas that your engine requires. If it pings with 87 and you want to keep that dizzy advanced those extra 3 degrees(legal 3 degrees +or- in Cali from OEM spec) move up to 89. If pinging still occures move up to 91,92, or 93 what ever they got in your neck of the woods. That is what high octane fuels are for. High Compression Ratio, high working pressure engines. My 2cents:devious: :devious:

SledZ what was the end result to your rear brake saga? What end the end did you do to correct this problem? Also did you have the 5/8ths master or the 15/16ths master? :devious:

Does the car run rough or at high Rpms at idle? Do you hear a loud hissing sound? Do the rpms change when you apply the brakes(while parked)? Disconnect the brake booster vacum line and plug. Does the car run normally? Do the rpms return to normal. Get a vacum pump/gauge ant apply vacum to the nipple or port of the vacum bosster. Does it hold vacum? If it does not it's leaking. :devious:

That's all Alan? Huh. No quires nada! . I would settle for one top shelf model for every year, with all the good stuff I would want on them. HLS30 through Z33. Except for the 240Z's I need at least four of these. One day maybe i'll win the Lotto! Yeah right! I don't know if being eight years younger is that much of an advantage. I think I saw my first Zed at around 9 or 10 years old. I bought HER when I was 20. She was my first Z. The first one I every set eyes on! This is the L24 I still have to this day. And it is a '73. Only been down on me once. And that was my fault!. This '73 has been in At least 5 Z's. With more than 20 engine changes between the 5 Z's. When I scratch one or others wise damaged one, I would just swap out my beloved '73's motor into another body with less scratches! This '73 motor sat outside for three years or so. Then I put in '71. She cranked over and started within 5 minutes. So IMO the '73 has been the best TO ME. :devious: Hey Alan the reason theres more questions than answers is due to the fact that you are now wise enough to realize that theres lots of stuff in this world other than ourselves. What's a brain cell? No worries mate, just crack a bottle wine and put on some Beatles! :devious:

Come now Alan, I said wiser. Not older. Brsides if you where 8, you had surely already seen your first Zed. I wasn't even born yet! :devious: . cheers.

A compression test can only be done on a cranking engine with all the pluga out and the throttle held open at the carbs. Disarm the ignition as to not fire. :devious:

Sudz never said he bleed the slave! and Carl is right . If he didn't change the clutch master, there is no need to bench bleed it. Being that it was not dry. Just bleed the system right and you'll have all the clutch you can fry. :devious:

Stand alone ignition/engine management set ups are the best. User programable and gives you many options for engine set ups. I like the Electromotive set up. Look them up on the web. I've seen some last gen TEC II's selling used with laptops all sensors and instructions for $900 to just over 1G. :devious:

asked for. Thank you Carl. Everything you said makes perfect sense to me. Yes I totally agree the Pertronix is a completely simple install. But since I came acroos this unit and have been wanting an electronic after market upgrade it ended up in my gruby little hands. The faulty power transitier sounds like cheap parts. This is also what happens to poorly sourced OEM components. Thanks Carl. :devious:

Zvoiture check out the cast aluminum baffled pans Dave at www.arizonazcar.com has. Sweet pans for the bucks. :devious:

Hey Carl, what kind of problems did this set up give you? Any ways you know of to test this unit? I would like to power the pick up and even see if the LEDs light up. Then check the resistence or voltage change when the pick up is interupted at the box. Thanxs for the heads up Carl. I would like a Pertronix, but I came across this unit in the breaker yard. So I brought it home. SER240Z, yes I believe it is an older unit. Now MSA sells the same model as a Crane Cams. So the wiring should be easy to figure out by looking at yours. I did PM you earlier. Thanxs guys. :devious:

are there to protect the money. The stupid piece of S$%t diddn't get any. At least this will put more pressure on the powers that be. Now he's messing with the Feds game. (Banks are insured by the Fed.) I still haven't come across any early Zed like yours Victor. Hopefully that means they ditched the car. And some stupid PG impound has it. I hope if this is the case they contact you soon. :devious:

Hey all, anybody have the Allison XR-700 or MSA Crane XR-700 installed on their Zed? And if so Can ant member post the wiring diagram. I just came across one. Optical twin LEDs in the dizzy with a three wire plug. This goes to the box along woth a black, purple, and red wires. Thanx. :devious:

So, any body know the Name, paint code, maker, or part number for the proper blue for the Zed? :devious:

26th-Z hit the nail right on the head with the smoke describtion! :devious:

Yes Motor oil can be used for a wet compression test. BUT IN VERY SMALL AMOUNTS!! One or less teaspoon or so. Any more can hydrostaticaly look up the cylinder that your are test. This can lead to bent rods/crank, broken piston ring lands. Not cool! :devious:

I hope the only took it like some of the members say for a one way ride. The other day (week) you passed me your nunber Victor. I don't Have it any where near me right now. But you said if you could be of any help to ring you up. So let me offer up my help. I'll PM you with my number so you can leave me a voice mail with your number. Post your VIN # here on the Club site for all the SoCal members to note. I always see almost every Zed that I come across. If I come across any that even remind me of your's i'll freaken stop and look. Also Posting your VIN might make anyone that might have looked in on the site, think about not keeping the car long. Avoiding further damage. And I am not saying that it could have been a member, only taking every step reasonable. Keep your hopes up Victor, Datsuns are easy to steal. Making them quick rides home. F@%&ed up!!!.

BMW? CIS or CISE. Both of which are mulitport fuel injection systems. My cousin had a 86 325E 5spd, posi. Real nice car. He couldn't get around to pass my POS '80 Audi 4000 1.6L VW motored 4 spd. Some engines have lots of revs but no torque. Some have lots of torque with no horsepower. The Z has both. Low numbers or not. When you can get in a 30 year old car and have that old engine slam you head back as you take off, that is not too shabby. If you look at cars just a few years ago, there was alot of talk for the cars like mitsu, mazda, honda, about having 150 ponnies. Wow it only took like 30 some odd years. They also do not tell you if it's at the flywheeel are drive wheels. So don't get down on the numbers. The Z is A lite car. It uses it's ponnies well. Remeber most new ( last 10 years) Asian cars (read economy here) are in the lower range than the Z. And weigh more. :devious:

You guy's forgot the rear hatch vent/piller/hatch emblems. Fuse block, tool boxes, and center console. Beandip, the "B" transmission was not an automatic. The "B" tranny was the trans with the bent stick shift. The "A" was the straight up and down one from the eary Z's. The Z that I miss the must was my Rootbeer brown '73. Even more than my first two eary '71's with the hatch vents. I still have the motor out of this car 11 years later. :devious: Carl your right about the heater controls! I did not remember that nice green light wheen looking for heat. There is nothing wrong with the '73. It's still an eary Z, with all the same potent L24 and IRS. :devious:

Hey all, yes speedy blue lower CG for the V8 will make for a bit better response in weight transfer. The LS1 is a 5.7L motor! Aluminum block, Croosbolted mains, very tight tolerances on the assembly of all parts in the block. Aluminum heads, mulitport FI. I got a small list here. All are Third Gen. Crossbolted. 5.7L "LS1" Aluminum. 12550592 97 up 12559378 99 up 12559846 98 up 12560621 98 up 12560629 99 12561168 01 up 12562175 98 up These are the more recent offerings from Chevy. There are other, older Aluminum Engines. But these are state of the art int terms of production quality and assembly. To use any of these motors from say a bone yard the way they are, you'd need the complete engine harness, sensors, fuel pump, relays, ECU from the donnor car. To use It's tranny Auto ot Stick, same thing get all the linkage and tranny harness(for lock up convert clucthA/T). The more bits and pieces you grab that go with the transplant set the easier it will be to fabricate the parts you will use. By either adapting the donnor parts or figuring how to make a new one that will work for your application. Having the original parts for reference helps. To use just the stock set up EFI you could also get an aftermarket wiring harness kit from somebody like "Painless" for the motor you want to use. There are a couple of other companies other than painless, with less expensive kits, but I don't remeber their names right now. Also i do not know if they are complete and ready to install for a running motor now or require modification. Such them being a general kit for a FI setup. I'll look for some of the threads/posts here for the T5. Post them latter or PM them to you since this is not the forum for that.Later:devious: Later 240Zdragon72, speedyblue.

Increasing the fuel pressure will make the mixture fater(richer). 240ZMan are you sure the rich mix is caused by the idle. Not the other way around? Low idle causes poor burn of mixture. Resulting in High HC's, which can be interpeted as rich. A Rich mix would be High CO. Of course this would require a n exhaust gas probe. CO burns the eye's and throat. Z's always smell a little nasty at the tailpipe. I did smogs for the states Referee program and I could never tell with a Z by smell. On the gas analyzer they run high CO and then Higher HC's. What do the plugs look like? Hows the ignition system? Are you running your PCV system? Check the function of your PCV valve. Pull it out and shake it about does it rattle? Is it gummed up? If so spray some carb cleaner in it to clean it out. Very intresting. Hope some of this gets you closer to the end solution. :devious:

I had this real nice reply all written out , then when I hit that submit button I wasn't logged in anymore. The gist of it was this is real cool that people from all over the world can talk about stuff from other oints of views. This is very good. I guess sometimes the differences in the way we all joke comes out a little wrong, but that is also cool. Because now we all see a little bit of the way of thinking from different folk. Can our elected officals do this good? Everyone of us has something in their own country that is large and grand. We should all be lucky enough to travel to an other members neck of the woods and see what good things there are to take in the way the locals see them. Your right Carl it is all good. When I bought my first Zed, there was no place like this. And Any Clubs where far away from me. I love this place. The members here I would not call conservative. Diverse and Mature, yes. No back to your normal witt. I have to get back to Alan's Thread I don't want to fall behind more pages. :devious:

Do you have a Digital volt meter or DVOM (digital Volt Ohm Meter)? Check the cranking voltage by probing the the Pos+ and Neg- terminals of the Battery with the volt meter (red +, black -) while cranking the engine over, disarm your ignition by disconnecting power to the distributor so it won't fire. Take a reading with the car dead, no key on doors closed, everything off. Whats the voltage. Crank 5-10 seconds, no longer. Note the voltage. A fully charged battery will read 12.60 Volts or higher. If you want to get a better reading turn on the headlights for a few seconds to get ride of the static charge from the battery then take the base reading. During cranking the voltage should not drop below 9.5 to 10 Volts for a computer controlled car. Usually anything below 9.5 to 9 volts and the computer doesn't want to work or the injectors want fire properly. Injectors are 12 Volt jobs. But it sounds like your starter is the actual cause for your "hot soak' condition. The heat from the engine increases the internal windings resistence of the starter solenoid. Either replace the starter or solenoid would fix this. Autozone can order the Solenoid Wells Part #ss314 $25.99(for example). Or you can Wrap the starter with a thermo wrap or fabricate a heatshield out of a piece tin/ thin gauge sheet metal. Also Before spending any money, check the battery post/cable condition. IS there any green/white/yellow fuzzy stuff any where? If so clean with tap water solution of baking soda and the water. This will nutralize the acid in the corrosive build up. Then remove the battery cables and clean them with a battery clamp/post cleaner. Clean both sides of the battery and the cables. Also where the cables bolt up to the starter solenoid and starter ear(ground -). Check voltage again. Did this fix the problem? If not try the heatshield. you can also pull the starter and walk it in to Autozone or Kragens. They will be able to check it on a bench machine that will give you amprage draw. Which is a measurment of the starters effeciency. If out of speck the starter is faulty. The heatshield/wrap is still a good idea. Hope this helps. :devious:

Done Deal. :devious: