mdixon

I forgot to post my thread saying I figured it out. Guess what it was. As Escanlon said ""Note: Slide Bar Switches must be to left when operating A/C."" I was driving in my car one day and thought, I wonder what will happen if I turn the vent OFF. Bam!!! cold air. Thanks guys Mark

Thanks for all your help and comments. I took the driver rear wheel off last night. Found the problem. The pads for the brake shoes had come un-bonded. They were just moving around in there. That was making the rattling sound. I 1st thought the U-joints too. When the pad would move all the way around the drum it would hit the other shoe and man what a clunk it would make. All is well because I needed to replace the back brakes anyway. Thanks again for all your help. Mark

I have a 71 240z, I finally got fixed enough to drive around town. I went to the shop yesterday and filled my AC with freon. The man at the shop said the pressure was great and it was now full of freon. But I get no cold air blowing out. I can feel the hose under the passenger side dash and they are cold, but still no cold air. My blower seems to work fine on all settings. And I have an aftermarket AC/Heat switch attached to the driverside of the center console. That seems to be working as well. Any Ideas?

Bambiker explained it perfectly. Although the part you are tapping is aluminum and you probably wont need any oil. I tapped the exact same part. Before you tap make sure that tap and helicoil are metric. And make sure the helicoil is for the same size bolt you are using. I know it seems dumb to mention but face it, when you are re-building a 30 year old car sometimes the brain doesn't catch up until you've done something dumb.

I finally got my car on the road this week end. It's a 71 240Z for those of you who don't know me yet. When I make a right hand turn I get a rattle noise from the rear end. It is pretty loud and sounds as if something is touching the drive shaft while it is spinning. It doesn't do this on a left hand turn. It doesn't matter if I am on the gas or not. Does anyone have any ideas on this?

Hey man, I feel your pain. I just went through the same thing. I replaced my manifold with headers and had a stud that broke off. I tried an EZout but after breaking 3 drill bits and 2 EZouts I ended up drilling the hole out and using a helicoil. after that project I realized my thermostat housing was cracked. I went to the local Zcar graveyard and bought a used one.(only because I wanted to start my car that day)(wishfull thinking). Well when I got the housing unit home, the threads on one side were striped. I drilled it out and used my 2nd helicoil. It worked like a charm.

Just to let everyone know. cutting the springs in half did not do the trick for the needle and seat. Wouldn't you know you cant get those springs without buying the kit. I called Bruce at ZTherapy and just by chance he had an extra spring. He is sending it in the mail today. I can't say enough good things about ZTherapy. As I started this project I did alot of research on the Internet and time after time I saw the name ZTherapy mentioned. Well now I know why. They are the best in the business. Mark

P.S.S. Yes I re-adjusted my floats. But not until I put the bowl tops back on and then realized that I should have done that. It seems like thats the way it goes. I have to do things several times before I remember all that I was supposed to be doing.

Sorry Bruce, I didn't mean to mislead anyone on your carb re-build kits. When I was putting the carb re-build kit together I lost one of my little springs. It seems I can quit dropping things on my garage floor. anyway, I lost one so I figured it is best to keep everything on each carb identical. So I used the old springs. (mistake) They aren't the same size as the new springs. I probably need a new set of the little springs that come with the kit. Do you have those??? Not only was your re-build kit great but when I watched the video that comes with the kit, the first thing you say not to do is dip your carbs into a bucket of cleaner. Well, of course I had already done that. You were nice enough to send me the rubber parts that I ruined. Thanks, Mark P.S. now that I have gas going to my carbs I wish I could figure out why sometimes it runs on all 6 cyl's and sometimes it doesn't. I haven't had much of a chance to tune the carbs yet. It did seem like I had alot of air pulling from the rear carb and very little from the front.

OK here's the update. After several different tests to try to find where my fuel starvation problem was, I finally got the fuel pump to send fuel to the carbs. However, I was still getting no fuel to the fuel bowls. After taking the tops off the bowls and trying to blow thru the gas inlet. I realized the needle and seat were not opening up. so I took them apart and found that the spring I was using was too big, too strong to work. I cut the spring in half and BINGO, it works. Thanks for all your help. Mark

Thanks guys for all your advise. I think I will double check the pump to see if it is working correctly, then make sure my fuel rail is not blocked up tonight. It has to be one of the two, I have checked everything else, and I have disconnected everything before the pump and after the rail. P.S. yes the car was running before I started this project. Not well, but it was running. Thats why I decided to re-build the carbs. And we all know how it works!! you start a project like re-building the carbs and say "while I have this part off I might as well replace the exaust manifold" and "while I have the manifold off, I might as well replace the whole exaust system" And so on... and so on... and so on... Thanks again, Mark

empty gas tank!! Yes I thought about that. It wasnt my first thought, so I thought I might be that dumb. But that was not the problem. When I opened the float bowls they were bone dry. But I did check to see if gas was even getting to that point, and it is not. That is why I replaced the pump. I must have a block in the fuel line.

Actually, I had the front carb still connected. I blew from the rear carb fuel hose. I could hear it coming out at the fuel pump.

I disconnected the tank. I am using a 2.5 gallon gas can. I still have no fuel going to the carbs. What I don't understand is before I re-built the carbs, I had no problem with the fuel getting to the carbs. It has to be the fuel rail. That is the only thing between the gas can and the carb. except the fuel pump, which i just replaced. But I can blow air through the fuel rail. Don't understand why I can blow air through the rail but cant get gas through there.

Thanks guys, I disconnected the fuel line at the top of the carb to watch if gas was flowing. I did take the fuel line from the tank to the pump and stuck it in a gas can. (gas can to pump) no gas flowing. I replaced the fuel pump. tried the same thing, still no gas flow. I guess my fuel rail is blocked, but I was able to blow backwards from the hose that connects to the carb. I thought maybe someone might have had this same problem.

I have a 71 240z. I replaced my manifold with 6 to 2 headers, got a new exaust, re-built my carbs and pluged all the smog stuff on my balance tube. Now I'm real excited to hear this new exaust. Well geuss what, It wont start. First I take my fuel line from the gas tank and put it in a gas can to see if there is a block up to that point. Still no gas. Then I take the fuel line off the carb and turn the engine over. No gas. So I blow through the line and air seems to go through. So I buy a new fuel pump. (mechanical) Well geuss what, you have to take the whole air compressor off to get the fuel pump off. (needed to clean that area anyway) New fuel pump on, still no gas. What should I do Now???? By the way, I did take the tops off the fuel bowls and add gas. The car ran for about 45 seconds and sounded great.

I know of the knobs you are talking about. They are not required for the carbs to work. You probably need to rebuild those carbs anyway, and if not you will need to adjust them. If you don't know how to do any of this, I highly recomend you buy the SU video from Ztherapy. I believe the video is $15 and the re-build kit is $150 which includes the video. These carbs are really easy to work on. Don't waste money paying someone else to do this for you. But make sure you do things right. As the other people posted, it is not a good thing to have gas drip on your exaust.

Well you were right. The rebuild went well and was very easy. The needle and nozzle didn't want to line up right but thankfully I have 4 screw carbs and was able to adjust the tube the nozzle slides into. Mark

I do like the idea of getting the air from infron of the car instead of the hot air inside the engine compartment. I recently bought a re-build kit from Ztherapy, and in his video, he shows a custom air cleaner he uses that gets air from the front of the car for the carbs. I would wonder if that really makes a difference, but I would imagine Ztherapy knows enough about the carbs that if it didn't, they wouldn't do it. But yes that custom design looks like sh!t. I guess the guy had it built and decided it did't work as well as he thought, and now wants to get rid of it.

I concure with texasz. The Ztherapy SU video shows what they did for their Z racer. I don't think you have to go as far as the whole fiberglass air cleaner though. I'm sure you could rig some sort of tub, like they said in the video, a dryer hose to the stock air cleaner and run it to the hole where the freash air comes in at the front of the car for the driver air vent. Thats what I'm gonna do.

I concure with texasz. The Ztherapy SU video shows what they did for their Z racer. I don't think you have to go as far as the whole fiberglass air cleaner though. I'm sure you could rig some sort of tub, like they said in the video, a dryer hose to the stock air cleaner and run it to the hole where the freash air comes in at the front of the car for the driver air vent. Thats what I'm gonna do.

Thanks guys, I talked to Ztherapy and they said pretty much all the things I need are in the re-build kit. They are going to send me some new rubber for the float bowls. I look very forward to getting this car on the road. Mark

I finally got to the point of my re-build on my 71 240z that I have purchased new exaust system and bought a carb rebuild kit from Ztherapy. The first thing they say about cleaning your carbs is "DO NOT put them in a bucket of cleaner" Well when I bought this car it did not run and I changed plugs, points, filters, and all the normal stuff to try to get the thing to run. Well one of the first things I did was stick those old dirty looking carbs in a bucket of cleaner. I'm sure all the parts Ztherapy said would disolve have. Has anyone else ever done this? What do I need to do? where can I get the replacement parts which I have ruined. I will of course call ZTherapy today. Mark

I live in the Helen GA area. I got the rotors turned, replaced my brake hoses with steel braided, replaced the clutch hose with steel braided, and have now received both my new exaust, headers and carb re-build kit. Well I say I replaced all my brake hoses. I am still working on the left rear. The fitting from the metal line to the hose would not come off. After a few wacks with vice grips and a hammer, I striped the fitting. Had the great idea of jus cutting the fitting off and replacing it with a new one. Everything went well but the new fitting will not go on the metal line. So I will be replacing that this week. Thanks for all the help, Mark

If your fellow on the West coast decides not to purchase your Mags, I would love to buy them, and would gladly pay for shipping to Ga. where I am. Please let me know. Mdixon@thoughtware.org