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well I'm going to talk to the gent tonight, and if all goes well I'll have the beast in my a friendly's garage by wednesday night, and can take some pics of it all! thanks again you guys!

Hello, I just ran into a fellow that has a wrecked '81 280zx 2+2 with a P79/F54, 5 Speed Transmission, and R200 Diff. Motor only has 60 thousand miles on it. I'm about to pluck the motor, and the transmission, but am wondering about the differential. Can I just use my shafts right in it, or will I have to take the ones off the ZX? Regarding the electrical ignition system in it, what more would I need than the distributor, coil, ignition module? Is there something else on these motors needed? edit: http://webpages.sdsmt.edu/~1014532/index2.htm is a few pics of the nasty beast

all I have to say is you are very lucky. I would have had it shipped in your situtation as they are major cities, and it would have been much cheaper than the route chosen. But the longer I own my Z, the more I find that if it's not one thing, then it's another breaking. :eek:

Awooga. I don't have choke plates on my webers right now, no big deal. I pulled back my choke at a light the other day, and the engine reved to 3K from it's sub 1000 sleep. So now it seems like I have 2 gas pedals. It feels like I can get more power when say driving up a hill and using the choke. Is this in my head? I smell more fuel then after some hard acceleration using it. I'm assuming this is the same thing as pushing the gas pedal in and revving it higher in a gear, but if someone could enlighten me as to what's going on, I'd be interested.

I'm on a DS-3, and your avatar is making it crawl!!!!

well well well, it appears shatty wiring is at fault for me... I ripped out ALL of my interior panels and found 8 dead wired in the back section, that were still hot, but not plugged into anything! Problem still not solved....so I started hacking into the dash. After untaping every set of wires....Cha CHING! There's some ghetto arse wiring for power, where one wire gets spliced into 3, all by tape multiple times!! Tell me this isn't factory EVERYTHING works now except my turn signals. I plug those dawgs in, and it blows a fuse every couple seconds. My clock is even ticking, haha. My voltage is up into the 14's now too!

I soldered the cam oiler, and everything appears ok there now.... I also adjusted my valves per what my newly acquired service manual says....cold first, then warm. I just don't get it. The sound actually went away after the cold adjustment. But after the warm, it came back. Why do I need to even adjust them warm? Heat causes expansion, so why would I go greater whenr it was warmer??? it seems stupid to me. I tried redoing the warm adjustment, and still noisy. I guess I'll try a cold again tomorrow morning.

You can get the wever dgv carbs for well under $200 if you watch eBay. I think one carb is supposed to cover up to like 2000cc or something, so the 2 have you covered pretty good. They're suuuper easy to riggup. Although, since mine were very cheap, I didn't get a throttle linkage with them. Nothing like ghetto rigging something for cheap! I went and bought a 99 cent all-thread rod from hardware store, used some bolts, and ground down one end to fit my gas pedal. vroom vroom. No sense paying $80 from motorsport auto for that, :sick:

I didn't think it really looked that bad myself, the car has 114K miles and is older than me... maybe it's just the lighting or the distance in those pics, but the lobes all seemed relatively the same. I called a repair shop regarding my valves, just curious as to how much a valve job would cost, and they said $500. DAMN. is this a bit high, or do I need to "get with it" and start drop'n $$$ and not lookin back.

I second that one.

it's really really annoying today. I drove it for 5 miles, and it was awful. It sounds like a loud sewing machine. It gets faster as I accelerate going down the road, and when I put it in neutral while goin, it's better than when it's in gear. Is that loose rod part of my cam oiler??? what would cause it to be wacked out? also, how does one check his valves?

just goto any local electronic part store (not radio shack), and they'll have it plus other goodies for sure

I've got a 260z, and the exact same prob. The guy pulled the stereo out before he sold it to me, problems started right then and there. My head lights work, but not the turn signals, tach, oil, speedo.... the fan, center light, hazards are ok. So I replaced the alternator because my a volt. meter on my battery was only showing 11volt. Nope, still low. I found another voltage regulator in the little service pockets in the back, and it grounds while the one on the car doesn't. Neither change a thing when used. uurrgggh. The battery is brand new too, I thought that was it at first... nope. no blown fuses anywhere either!

I've got a 260 that I just changed the carbs over. The price was very right, cheaper than SU's by a long shot, so I now have dual webers on it. I've got them tuned (don't know why everyone bitches about that) and her idling nicely. When I was doing the tuning with the engine running, it sounds like something(s) is clanging inside. Not pinging, but kinda clanging. My neighbor says it sounds like my lifters are bad, or I've thrown a bearing. Can anyone elaborate, or offer some advice? It looks like my valve gasket has been leaking oil slowly in the front for some time judging by the greasy depositing that goes down that side of the engine. Meaning, I will probably take the valve cover off this weekend. When I do so, what should I be looking for regarding this clang'n? I also am assuming I will need to replace the cover gasket each time I take it off? [edit] pics now attached [/edit]

I thought it looked goofy myself, but just wanted some input. we tried with one of them, and the bolt pattern fits, but not enough offset so the wheel was pressed against the spring, and that ain't gonna work! thanks everone though!

my brother is getting rid of his current wheels on his saab, and has offered them to me for free. Currently the Z has the originals on with a set of good tires. the saab ones are 15" alloy rims, with new last summer tires. they are wider I believe too. I'm not sure about it really, and would welcome some input from you all. [edit] the rims look a bit too big in that picture. also, I think the offset is the same[/edit]

sounds funny, but it's hell! I was going on this loop road that is a 55mph type deal and my door flew open! luckily it was a roomy one lane loop, and nobody was behind me, but that sucked. It now seems that on both doors, they will fly open in a turn if they are not locked. also, they need a bit of a push when locking them for the lock to work. anybody have any wisdom they want to pass on down to this young'n?

you got really lucky, that guy could have went hot roddin in it on crack or something and really messed things up. I bet that feeling coming out of the store was so bad.

I got 2 estimates today, and the average equals $3,930.80, hahah. talk about suck.

my area code is 605 here, however, my username # is from something else