PROSTARR Z

Hopefully you have a partner handy. To bleed the clutch, locate the clutch slave cylinder on the transmission belhousing. Have your partner get in, open the bleeder screw and have them push the clutch pedal down slowly. Close the screw prior to bringing up the pedal. Don't pump it like a brake system!!!! Repeat process, checking to make sure you DO NOT let the clutch master go empty, until the fluid come out clear with no bubbles !!! Use ONLY new DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. As for the brakes, have your partner pump up the brake pedal. Starting from the Right rear, open the bleeder screw until the pedal goes to the floor. Close the screw and have your partner pump the pedal again. Repeat this process until the fluid runs clear. The bleeding sequence is RR,LR,RF,LF. Remember to check the level inn the Master often to make sure you do not let it run dry!!!! Also, take great care to not pump or let off the pedal when the bleeder screws are open, this will suck air into the system and you will lose or have a spongy pedal !!! If you have no partner to help, you can still bleed your system (though not as good) by using a gravity method. just open the bleeder screw (Do not push or pump the pedal) and let it drip out until it runs clear. This process is very time consuming compared to the pumping method. As long as you do not let the fluid in the master go empty, you should be in good shape !!! Just one last note, Brake fluid will eat paint, so if you get it on your hands, try not to touch your paint!!!! Brake fluid is water soluble, If you make a spill, just hose it off !!!!! I hope this helps!!!! KT

Funny, I've got a basement full of them !!!!! I knew they would be worth something someday!!!! I would have never guessed a set of "D" caps would go for $1247.00!!! If I could get that for each set that I have, I could afford a new 350Z !!! !!!!!! I have been collecting nicer to mint hubcaps since the early 90's and have quite a few stashed away for "future" projects. KT

Sounds like a typical brake booster bypassing!!! KT

Anything to help a fellow Z lover!!!! KT

21 mm is prefered. The 13/16in has a tendency to be a little tight going over the lug. KT

Give me a hollar at DATZ280T@MSN.COM and I will see if we can't get you what you need!!! KT

I guess I will tell you the most common method. First you must use a procedure refered to as "bench bleeding" This is used to purge all the air out of the master. The new master should have come with a kit to plug off the ports. If so, then use the plugs in the ports, fill the master about half full with clean Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid. using a phillips head screwdriver or a rod of some sort, pump the back of the master using slow strokes, make sure it remains level through the whole procedure. You should see air bubbles rising up, continue to pump until there is no more air. At this time it will be ready to install on the car. I am sure you know how to do this part so I wont get into it except to say be carefull with the threads on the lines, it is very easy to cross thread them!!! Once installed, you will need to bleed the whole system, you will need a buddy for this, have them pump up the pedal, then open the bleeder and repeat making sure that the pedal is NOT released until the bleeder is closed. Repeat until there is no air and then move on to the next wheel. Start with the RR, Then LR, Followed by the RF and last the LF. That should be it!!! Make sure to have plenty of Dot 3 or 4 on hand and remember not to put anything but dot 3 or 4 in the brake system!!! I hope this helps!!! KT

I usually allways keep one around. They are the weak link in the heating system and are known for going bad!!! I will check to see if I have one left and let you know!!! KT