richard1

Today it became a bit worse and after close examination, i made the decision to remove the water pump after I bought a new one. This sucker has just not even some play in the bearing but just enough to drip a bit (dry streak) at the bottom of the casting close to the "hole". I inspected the radiator and it is fine. Thanks to everybody for their comments.

No, it would have been too easy.

Recently, I found than only the inner left front fender well was stained with coolant from the frame rail up to the vent duct connecting to the radiator support. At first, I thought that it was one of the hose from the transmission cooler that was the problem but it is not the case. For sure, this streak of coolant is shot from the fan but it is impossible to find from where it is coming. Here is what has been checked: -The upper and lower radiator hose......they are new from last year and tight. -The water pump..........replaced last year. -The radiator........doesn't leak and has been replaced by a brand new one two years ago. Top and bottom tank are dry (copper radiator not aluminum). -Radiator cap........new from the same time. -Thermostat housing........no leak. -Small hose connecting to the thermostat housing from the intake manifold......dry and no leak. -Head gasket..........dry. -Coolant..........clean There is never any coolant spot on the floor, the radiator is always full, the water pump is not noisy and doesn't show any sign of leak around the front of the engine after complete cleaning of the erea. It is very mysterious and I wondering where to search for any clue. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

It is leaking oil and Cotmann Transmission where it has been rebuilt is not able to locate a replacement part. Any help would be appreciated.

The ignition switch on my 72 240z has the following problem: when I turn the key from lock to accessories and start, it get stuck and I have to play with it several times to finally be able to go to start. It is not the electrical part of the switch being the problem but the mechanical part where the key goes in. This part is sealed and i don't see how it can be dismantled to look what is wrong inside. Is it fixeable or does it need to be replaced?

I need a good use one. If you have any clue where to find one please, email me: richarddube@cox.net

excessive play in the throttle shaft bushing. Any clue where I can find a replacement?

it works fine but when the headlights are on, the dashboard lights shut down and I have to play with the "stick" to keep the dashboard lights on. Any suggestions what to check? The control arm is tight with no play......a connector to clean ...or what else? Still fully original unmolested 38YO.

It is a real tough issue...... -I tried to remove the speedo by removing the wing nut.......it doesn't want to come out as supposed from the front of the pod, so I left it there because I don't want to damage the dashboard (I put thin plastic business card around the speedo bezel but it doesn't come out). -I removed the speedo cable from the speedo and make a test drive........same squeak. Conclusion...the speedo itself is not the problem and the cable was in a bent position to intensify the squeak it would have been the problem. -I looked at the mileage reset wheel assembly and found some play moving the assembly up and down with a possible similar squeak. I lubricated the with silicone and installed a soft rubber spacer between the knob and the under dash where it is installed. Everything is tight on this component.........road test again......same squeak. This problem is not from the speedo or the cable. Any other suggestions? -vent flaps? tried open and same problem. -fender bolts? all tight. -window door rail bolts tight. -dashboard vents? tested for dry felt and no problem.

It squeaks when I start from a stop.

it could make sense..........could it be lubricated if I disconnect and remove the speedo for better access? the speedo can be remove from the front, correct?

Since about two months I am trying to locate an intermittent squeak that come from the left side of the dashboard. Now that it is cooler, it is more audible and real bothersome. Furthermore, there is nothing I have ever done and I found absolutely nothing wrong anywhere. It happens when I accelerate at a stop and now that it is cooler, it is clearly audible and constant on the freeway at mostly any speed above 40 MPH. It sounds like if two piece of very dry rubber would rub on each other or some lose nuts or screws not tight enough would create friction. Until now, I have done the most imaginable checks on everything: -Torque all the steering bolts and supports under dash -Torque dash attachment bolts under dash and under the air defroster finisher. -All defroster duct screws were tight -Removed the cover under the wiper and checked all screws and put teflon tape the tabs and plastic inserts in the cowl. -Lubricate the wiper hardware -Lubricate the inspection cover clip with silicone grease, remove the inspection cover to lubricate with penetrating oil......there is a play in the hinge but not enough as lubricated to be the problem -Torque all fender bolts -Torque ALL door hinges inside the foot well panel -Ckecked the wing nuts of the speedo and tach -Checked the air vent attachment screws to the elbow under dash -Checked the rubber drain hose for friction with the cowl insulation -Checked windshield rubber seal for any cracks......fine, furthermore applied W40 all around the inner cabin seal using a fine needle bottle use for acrylic panel welding -Checked brake and gas pedal bolts and screws to the firewall -Checked steering mounting bolts to the firewall -Checked windshield washer hose connector and among others.....transmission mounts bolts, struts, engine mounts..... To conclude, I am pretty exhausted in the search of this annoying noise. Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

THERE IS A GOLDEN RULE FOR EVERYONE WHO OWN A PERFECT DASH IF IT IS AN ORIGINAL CAR......PROTECTION, MOISTURIZING EVERY MONTH AND EVERY TIME YOU DETAIL YOUR CAR. I owned my original Z since 2000 when I bought it from a picky collector. For sure it was perfect in every way. I drove it for enjoyment as all my other classic cars, fully restored or just original OEM. I live in Vegas.........you know what it means. Since the last ten years I own this car, the dash has a coat of protection every two weeks in the same way I clean the carpets..........I ALWAYS have a sun shade in the windshield no matter sun is shinning or not.........if I drive the Z to work, the car is covered with the best car cover on the market (NOAH) tailored to the Z body shape (water repellent, UV protection, sap and bird droppings). A perfect dash needs to be conditioned to keep it in flawless condition ALL the time and not once in a while.

No matter you have a reproduction of the the dealer's parts book, very few OEM parts are available and reproductions are most of the time garbage or poorly designed. For some hoses, you have to be very creative to buy some OEM still available (braided) to make your own if they need specific radius to fit the original. My experience of ten years owning an original never restored 72 Z.

If you tried to scary me. It was just fine tuning carb adjustment and balancing after tune-up and timing advance.