richard1

The question is how to detect a failing thermostat. My 72 Z has all the goodies for hot climate (100-118F) including three rows radiator, fan shroud. good fan clutch and 160 thermostat. Also my vapor lock is fixed with the addition of an electric fuel pump.(car is full stock) My engine runs cool with the A/C on in traffic or highway but since a week I am wondering if my thermostat is showing some sign of weakness. My temperature gauge is normally always below the middle mark. Now it tends to go a bit over the middle mark and comes back to the middle in traffic with all accessories on in day time. I am a little bit picky here wanting to have a 32 years old car performing like the new kid on the block but until now it always performs flawlessly. Could it be a sign that the thermostat need to be changed? thanks for your comments.

I believe the MSA ia an OEM. It is the same japanese brand as the original and exact in all the details.

send me your address at: richarddube@cox.net

I recently installed an electric fuel pump on my 72 z to cure the vapor lock problem. I found the wires taped as described at the back of the car. I also found the "L" connectors taped on the driver's side of the console. The problem is the pump works only when the light switch is on.

I started to have this problem this year only. I have the car since four years and it never happened before. I followed the recommendation to install an electric fuel pump at the tank outlet and my problem is solved.

They have knobs for 70-71 only. the 72 knob has never been reproduced.

They have knobs for 70-71 only.

I am looking at a choke knob for the 72 z. The right one has "choke" written on below the square. Any help to locate one would be appreciated.

What should be the suggested pressure rating for an electric pump?

I apologize on my last post that can bring confusion........... I was thinking about blocking the water flow from the thermostat housing to the carbs manifold as some members suggest. I would like to have a procedure to perform this work: -Which is the nut size to plug the thermostat housing? -Which nut size to plug the manifold inlet? -Which nut size to plug the manifold outlet? -How to plug the back steel pipe? Richard

I was thinking to do that but I never had any problem before. My engine is full stock and last year, I wrapped all the fuel lines in the engine bay with foam insulation. I also have the original steel fan shroud. My car has the dealer installed A/C still running perfectly but the engine temperature is always right in the middle. Can the A/C set-up accentuate the problem of vapor lock in hot climate?

What is a cowl seal and an injector cooling vent? I forgot to specify it is a 72, 240z.

I live in Las Vegas since ten years and it is the first year I have real problem with fuel evaporation. I always fill with premium. The engine temperature is normal. Ater a drive, I park the car for ten minutes and I am not able to start back. After a wait of 30 minutes I succeed to start the engine with effort. Yesterday temperature was 113F. Any suggestion to fix the problem? Is there any emission control parts that would need to be replaced at 88,000 miles lthat could be related to the problem?

Anybody with technical knowledge of this transmission model? I need to know how to fix the following problem. When cold, it shifts nice in first gear for the next 500 feet and after, there is no more power for three to five seconds. Its like the engine is disconnected from the transmission. I give some throttle and it engages back. When hot, this problem never happens and always shifts properly. I check the oil level when hot and the engine idling and it is at the low level. With the engine shut the oil level is at full. This problem happens when I turn at the corner of the street and I am wondering if it is not the pump that sucks air because of not having enough oil. I have the technical book for the 3a71a and I dont want to rely on this information because it seems that it is not the same transmission. There is no oil leak.

Anybody has one for sale or can help me locate one? Richard

Some time ago I replaced the filler hose of the gas tank. Since, I observed that when the tank is filled up, I start to have a dust streak on the rear fender under the gas door as like some vapors would come from under the rubber flap and run along the fender and down to the bumper. There is no smell and the gas cap seems very tight. Any idea about the source of this problem and how to fix? Richard

My rubber mats are hidden under fabric mats. Now I can understand what they worth.

I cannot be of any help to these questions but let me share my experience from the desert heat of Nevada. My 72 240z has the original A/C from new and perform as it is supposed to be until now. Maintenance is performed every spring but I started to hear some noise coming from the fan clutch when the car is not even on the driveway. Could it be more the belt than the clutch. The system is very thight,doesn't leak and perform pretty well for being 32 YO.

I forgot to say, ita a 72 240z.

No, the problem is not as serious but need some attention. Once in a while, screws become loose and fall down as heater control knobs or seat belt pillar post holders. Some suggestions to have these old screws to stay thight. The car is fully original, never restored and close to concours condition. Thanks, Richard

What is the procedure to remove and install new tension rods? Is the hood has to be removed? Thanks,

I didn't replaced the pins and clips. I will give it a try> Thanks

I installed new rotors and new pads on my 240z and I have a lot of brake squeal. Is there a way I can fix the problem? I used the Permatex product. Thanks Richard

Is the hood has to be removed to change these tension rods? Richard

It seems that a single tension rod is needed to fix the problem as per Victoria British Catalog. Have you ever heard of that very simple solution? It cost only $30.00. Seems a lot simple than refitting the whole hood mechanism. Thanks God I have not loosen these bolts to try to fix the problem that way. When you look at this tension rod in their catalog it makes a lot of sense how this tension rod works. Only one is required and the proper pressure comes from the bottom right side to the left top side of the hinge mechanism. Now it explains me a lot how it works. for sure one is a spring and the other a stabiliser of not the same alloy because it has never to be replaced. Furthermore, you can see some different stress in the metal of both of these rods. One is stronger than the other which explain the purpose of their use. If you look your underhood when open, you can see that the tension of these rods are not even. I will follow up when the part will be installed and the results. Richard