richard1

he responded this morning by saying "buy the car and I will send you the parts you need......I will send everything else to the crusher". Well...I will not pay $275.00 for just a 31" piece of original weatherstrip I need. He believes there is about a thousand dollars worth of parts. I could be interested in a few spare parts but in no way I could make arrangement to ship this car to Las Vegas. I have no storage and not the time to dismantle....even less patience to play with rusty stuff.

is a generic fit-all s30. I bought one and returned it because it is not the same profile.

the seller is asking $250 with a lot of parts. Is somebody interested ? The car is located in Cummington, Mass. It has the inner hatch weatherstrip i am looking for a so long time. Many good body panels.......I could be interested by some tid bits. I should be interested to share the buying price with some members here if somebody is close enough from this location to pick up the car.

deeper to cover the lower body lines and tight fit on the fender edges, hood flowing lines, slanted back window and covering tightly the front and rear valence panels. The fabric is a lot thicker from what I see from your pictures and just available in light Grey color. It has outstanding water repellent properties and UV protection when I drive my car to the office from time to time. Otherwise, always garaged with the cover on. I can send you pictures if you want to post them Furthermore.....fit is tight with no problem in windy condition.

don't fit and don't have the same shape. Even available OEM Nissan is a generic fit-all 70-78 and based more on the 78 OEM which seems correct for these cars (I found one in a junk yard in Vegas). There is no available and original 70-72 inner weatherstrip reproduced by any company. For these years, the top is flat and of a complete different shape. Mine is still perfect with the exception of one worn spot of about 12". I am picky about accuracy and the welding joint for the bottom part is about 31". So, it is the reason I really one a piece of a used 70-72 one to restore my original.

anybody could help me to find a 31" piece of flat top original inner hatch weatherstrip? Again...... your help would be greatly appreciated.....I know, I ask the same thing again and again but if there are junk cars somewhere as per the thread below, somebody could help me to find what I am searching for so many months. Thank you in advance

I would never undertake this kind of adventure from a car that has never been equipped with A/C as a dealer option. Mine is a dealer optioned car that has been rebuilt two year ago and the process has been quite simple by installing a new compressor, hoses, dryer and valve. I may be lucky but I have absolutely no complain about the original unit. It blows 57dregrees in desert climate at 112 degrees. In traffic, I installed an electric fan to cool down the evaporator. My tech was an MB A/C guy.........total cost $1200.00 including parts and everything is full original as 37 years ago with no modifications.

I have a Covercraft NOAH (Kimberly Clark fabric) four layers with inside fleece custom fit for a 72 one side mirror pocket. It fits very sharp. It is the improved technology from the Evolution 3 I bought for my Corvette ten years ago. I paid $152.00 including shipping two months ago.

I received the new OEM check valve today. The engine doen't anymore rev-up when the brake pedal applied.....it was defenitely a vacuum lost from the check valve. For you guys who hear a "hiss" sound from your master vac, don't go straight to the conclusion the master vac is faulty. I ordered the part from Courtesy and my cost was $36.00, shipping included. You can conclude, it was better than guessing about buying a new booster for a lot more money and more work to be done and not solve the problem. I have all the Nissan books and many others and it was the right way to go for troubleshooting and diagnostic.

I received the new OEM check valve today. The engine doen't anymore rev-up when the brake pedal applied.....it was defenitely a vacuum lost from the check valve. For you guys who hear a "hiss" sound from your master vac, don't go straight to the conclusion the master vac is faulty. I ordered the part from Courtesy and my cost was $36.00, shipping included. Better than guessing about buying a new booster for a lot more money and more work to be done to not solve the problem. I have all the Nissan books and many others and it was the right way to go for troubleshooting and diagnostic.

when the car has been delivered? It is interesting to have your comments.

anybody aware of this one and if original? Looks nice. I may be interested if somebody may confirm it is as good as in the pictures. It looks straight and original.

they would be etched on both sides and the grooves milled both sides from a metal alloy known as Hastelloy c 276.

to see them reproduced in the same sturdy steel as they have been. Mines are the oval ones with the " NISSAN MOTORS " logo and I am looking since many years to find OEM blanks without success Indeed, I refinished the black paint and put a clear coat to protect the original finish on the oval part. I Believe it would be pretty easy to reproduce these OEM keys and I would invest in a project of this kind if I could find other models of OEM to make prints. I Have a friend of mine that could cast them and mill to the specs we need. Nissan doesn't care about OEM parts for S30. You cannot even find a repro part authorized by Nissan that fits your S30 as the original. The only thing they are concerned is the Nissan label on the plastic wrap.

A 31" piece of the inner hatch weatherstrip if it is the original still on the car. I is just what I need, The top of the weatherstrip is " flat top" designed for 70-73. richarddube@cox.net

After 37 years, I removed the valve and made the decision as a test, to clean the valve with W40 on both sides and blow compressed air out several times to make sure it handles its purpose as a "vacuum". Put back and the problem is solved. I will order a OEM or a repro new metal one to take care of this issue. At least, the source of the problem has been found. Hey...in 37 years on this car......this part has never been a problem. We can conclude that some components were garbage on these early Zs but some were trouble free...at least for us,,,, as privileged owners of preserved originals from those early years.

.....under further observation when I came home...the engine doesn't idle as smooth as before.....looks more as a vacuum problem.....is there a way to check and clean the valve?

Out of the freeway today I noticed that braking was not as responsive as before. The pedal is hard, there is a very low hiss sound and when I put the the foot on the brake pedal, THE ENGINE RPM GOES UP. May it be a vacuum issue with the master vac from one of the hoses or a failure of the vac itself and how to check? My feeling is the vac......it is the original from 72 and the hoses are the same original from 37 years ago.

Thank you for the info. I called my supplier and my unit is rated at 60 amps as per their specs (NAPA), I never noticed this variation before......because now I commute very early in the morning and I see the difference in lighting intensive. During the worst of summer, cooling fan for the A/C condensor, A/C on, full blower and everything else were on but I never experienced a significant lack of energy. What do you think I could check.....I only have the A/C at all time and nothing else. Is a battery charge would fix the problem? I have no cranking problem and the car perform flawless at every start up no matter 110 or as now around 95 F no matter I shut down the engine five times or more in the worst of the day. I tightened the alternator belt but I don't see significant improvement.

Well...sorry for the confusion of the title of this tread. i observed this morning that the brightness of my headlights is lower at idle than at throttle no matter my A/C is on or not. Could it be just my alternator belt that is not tight enough?????it doesn't slip on the pulleys when the engine is shut down but at higher RPM it waves a bit as a bad belt and it is the same from my A/C compressor belt side. My belts are new from the last year, alternator replaced last year also and voltage regulator in same time. It is a 72 240z. I know that the A/C draws a lot of power from the engine and is always on because I live in Vegas. Engine cooling is in the middle of the gauge, timing is perfect, engine peppy in all climate fluctuation with electric gas pump at the back, points setting perfect (change every 500 miles because the best as Standard brand wear off very fast) Coil is one year old......distributor rebuilt...distributor cap with brass contacts..... excellent as rotor....recent spark plug wires. As you may see..... a very thigh scheduled maintenance control. The only thing I missed......the condensor. Could it be the problem ? I have several new ones in my toolbox but I don't replace it every time I replace the point set.......last time I replaced the condensor may be a year ago. i changed point set may be five times since without replacing the condensor, Please, explain me what is the real function of the condensor if it is my problem. I cannot see anything else.

in 1974 when I was in college in Quebec. I will always remember the one and only winter I drove that car with so much problem it was completely unreliable. They were all falling apart after a couple of years. The alignment shop was not able to do its job because the frame rails were already too rusted and the car insecure for safe driving. Nissan Canada bought it back for scrap and gave me a credit for a 710. Mine was yellow with the exact engine configuration as in your picture. You have to check the undercarriage in detail before buying a car that went through harsh Canadian winters. It may be a good deal but check before it could cost you big bucks on a restoration project. As far as I am concerned, it is the reason I never opted to buy one of these first S30.

.....I hope you understand what I said.

do they cover Z's from the early 70's?

I received from Courtesy Nissan a OEM rear hatch inner weatherstrip for the 72 Z. The new OEM part number from Nissan is labeled 76912-N4500 (part received from Courtesy). The original part number in the NISSAN parts book is 76912-E4100. Furthermore and where I am confused..... the rubber extrusion from the part received from Courtesy is not shaped as the original one on the car. My parts catalog is the original 70-73 NISSAN. Is somebody can explain me why the second section of the part number doesn't match the original number going back to original NISSAN data? There is no superseded part number in the original parts book. Is it possible that the new parts reproduced as OEM are now generic to fit ALL the S30 models? If I proceed and install this part, it will not fit. The rubber lips going over the body edges are very large and deep, they are wider than the original and they would exceed the sitting surface on the body (inside and outside) of the actual weatherstrip after installation. I am also bugged by the fact that the original weatherstrip has not shrunk and fits well all over the inner body.' My factory original parts book is from 1970-1973, updated June 1974.

America is great.........it is a mix of cultures that built this country ...Right? When you post insults and discrimination comments on grammar issues, you hurt members that have a far better overview about the world than you may think because you are short sighted. Coming from around the world,WE are engineers, designers, architects who have been allowed to come in AMERICA, BECOME US CITIZENS, contribute to keep your jobs and bring technologies this country don't even have to be at the forefront of the global market....be competitive and stay afloat. Stop bitching us coming in US to help to fix the mess you are in.....we keep your jobs from going in the drain. For those who may be concerned, think twice before shouting insults to members who may have opinions you may not share.