richard1

making A/C gurus mad at each other. As for me, I am completely illiterate in A/C stuff and now it works fine in the afternoon as in the morning. It has never been serviced in two years and it was probably due to be done. The happy ending is that it cools in range with the standards posted above as the tech showed me after servicing the system ( if I remember in the range of 41 to 51 degrees) and it is just fine. If the cooling fan condensor is useless....well...I will keep it shut down and iI will have just spent a hundred bucks of parts I installed myself. I am in the extreme of hot climate from now until beginning of September and I have to figure what can help in the worst of our summer here. Again, it is a bone stock ride down to the hubcaps and paint with no tinted windows and the way I want to keep it for the most as far as I can. Thanks to everybody.

We are a great community to help each other and it has been proved one more time since I am a member here. I have to say that all your comments have been a direct hit in many ways. I am just disappointed with the A/C master technician that rebuilt my entire original dealer installed A/C unit two years ago and how he has been lazy to figure out the problem, perform minimal checks and procedures and very simple ones after being paid thousands of bucks two years ago.. You guys figured the fix it has been a direct hit. This afternoon, I called several A/C shops and explained my problem, ask if they have Freeze 12 and what they thing about with an average price to fix the issue, the entire system being brand new from two years ago. The best shop with freeze 12 gave me a quote to flush the system and refill. It cost me $120.00. My master tech told me to install a pusher fan, I spent over a hundred bucks to do it myself and it was not the fix. Furthermore, he was asking me $500,00 to do it. To cut short.......there is no leak in my A/C unit but the only part that has never been replaced is the condensor. Connections are tight without clues of any leak. The pusher fan seems to help a bit at stop and go traffic but I still have vapor lock problem over 100 degrees as today but I switch the electric fuel pump on and it cures the problem. The engine temperature stays below the middle line and runs fine aside of the vapor lock problem. So.....too much bla bla bla? Yes.....the freeze 12 has been drained and refilled ......the problem is fixed... and A/C is blowing very cold. Maybe the fan will help in the worst of the summer days when we will reach 115. Thanks to everybody PS. My tech has done a very good job but he may have personal issues. I will not trust him anymore. The A/C maintenance is the only thing I don't do on my car.

As most followers on the subject know, my A/C original system has been fully restored and runs with freeze R-12. It work fine in the morning at around 75F. In the afternoon when over 85F the performance is close to none.....mostly hot air...or mild. My A/C tech told me to install a pusher electric fan in front of the condensor. I installed properly a Hayden 3680 as a pusher toward the engine. Today, the car has been in the sun all day. I barely see any improvement on the A/C performance at close to 100 degrees here in Vegas. Here are some questions in my mind: 1-I have a original radiator shroud......does it needs to be removed for better airflow from the electric fan? 2-The engine thermostatic fan is still in place and i don't want to remove because the car is an original unrestored. 3-The Hayden fan is a 12", 800 CFM connected to the switch and goes direct to the battery. I use the fan when needed...only in the afternoon. To conclude, my feeling is the fan shroud is restrictive (as a closing funnel) for proper cooling of the A/C condensor and overall engine bay to dissipate heat at 100 degee temperature. The engine temperature is always below the middle mark at any time as before in the most severe summer conditions but I still have the A/C performance issue. Would it be better to remove the fan shroud? I would prefer not. Otherwise, if it is the solution to the problem, I can remove for the summer time. opinions are welcome.

How did you hook up the electrical for the electric fan?

I have the original A/C. It works fine but the technician tells me that I could have a better cooling performance during the summer hot days if I would install a electric fan in front of the condensor. What kind of fan is the best and any suggestion how to hook up to the electrical system?

For sure.

There is nothing faulty with the distributor and the vacuum advance is working properly. The problem was bad (lose) electrical connections at the coil terminals and resistor that cause the random misfire or hiccup at acceleration or at start at stop light. As some of the regular posters say most of the time.....we all need to remember to start with the inexpensive checks before replacing parts that may be expensive. At least, this applies to me with a stock ignition. Richard

For now, I just checked some old postings about faulty distributors and I came through a comment in regards of bad electrical contacts at the resistor and coil. I checked and it seems they needed some cleaning and adjustment of the connectors. I didn't test drive but the engine is idling far better no matter A/C is on or not. I will follow on the results in a couple of days when I will drive the car on a daily basis for a couple of days to check if everything is fine. We are already close to the 90F here in Vegas. It will be perfect to check everything for the summer time.

My 72 Z has a dual point distributor. It is a pain to maintain in tune and it is very hard now to find good point sets. The fiber block wear very fast and I need to adjust the points every 200 miles. Now I am trying to figure if I have not a distributor problem. The cam lobes are nice, the shaft is tight and doesn't seem to have excessive play. I adjust the points at .020-.022 as per the specs and it is the same on each high point on the lobe. The engine idles fine. Now if I am at a stop light with the foot on the brake (AT) the engine seems to barely miss a bit as if the fire would not be strong enough. I put on neutral and it idles better but I can still perceive the same miss. If the A/C is on, I feel this miss al ot more. When I start at the green light, the car is peppy and suddenly at around 2000 RPM it miss once and pick back to normal. I have new points, new rotor, new condenser. The distributor cap and wires have been replaced last year. Any suggestions?

since there is no more of this little curved hose on the market, I must find a solution. I replaced the PCV valve hose some time ago and there are some 90 degrees curves that may fit. If somebody knows if the ID would fit for this application?

I know what it means to go through a major electrical problem on a complete original car that has never been modified in anyway and bought at 40K back in 2001. In 2007,It has been bad luck and time consuming to fix the damage and a lot of money to find all the parts needed to put back the car on the street (months) in original condition. Believe me, if you want your Z as original as possible, don't gamble on the alternator output. Keep it in the range as recommended. I have a 60A and it fullfill all the requirements i have with A/C, stereo, lighting, fuel pump, fan and everything. After all, they are classic cars and not intended as daily drivers anymore without serious potential problems that you may never know what is at the next corner.

I suggest you buy a shop manual and make a basic research in the archives of this site to see if you can find any similar problems. Check your fuses and the connections to the blower.

I forgot.....it is a 240Z

My A/T has been redone two weeks ago. A new transmission mount has been installed this week. It seems that I have weak engine mounts because my A/C compressor bracket is stuck on the left frame rail with no clearance as before. I have the new engine mounts but the transmission shop is charging me $200.00 to install them. It doesn't seems to be a big job. Has anybody has a safe procedure to do this work or is it better to bring the car to other shops to ask for a quote?

Geezer, thank you for your help.

I called Courtesy Nissan from Texas and they told me that this part #14863-E4600 is not anymore available. They suggest I could try Canadian dealerships that may have parts that are no longer available in USA. Any Canadian members here who could suggest where I could call? Thanks.

no matter the gas tank has been boiled and one vent pipe repaired (welded) three years ago, the same vent pipe has started to leak again. It is the one on the left side. I will remove the tank again next week to fix this problem and eliminate all potential causes.

I replaced the new pump that was noisy and I performed all the previous tests I have done. Without the electric fuel pump, the engine dies after 15 minutes at 110 degrees at idle. I restarted the engine with the fuel pump on and now it idles fine with no more starvation. Thanks to everybody for your comments and suggestions.

in very warm temperature my deduction it is coming from the rear. I may also suspect that the mechanical pump may have a problem because it doesn't seems normal that when the engine his hot and turn off, there is a low "eesssss" noise coming from it. I don't know if it is the diaphram or a valve inside the mechanical pump that does this noise when the engine cool down. Anyway, I replaced the electric pump and put the car at idle in the sun for 15 minutes without the electric pump. It died as before in the same period of time. I started the car again and put the electrical pump on. Runs rough when on for a minute or so but better after for about ten minutes with all accessories on. I stopped the testing short because the new pump started to be very noisy. I brought the car back in the garage and checked the gas flow in the line. It seems to be OK. I now have to go for a replacement electric pump. Conclusion: The problem seems to be the electric pump but I am not sure if the mechanical pump is not also a problem because the engine doesn't idle smooth when very hot. Again the temperature is normal.

1-Checked the rubber hose from the metal pipe and connecting to the filter. Looked OK but I replaced it and the filter also. 2-Disconnected the fuel line at the electric pump. Blew air from the fuel filter. Looks OK. 3-Blew air in the fuel pump. Looks OK. 4-Started the fuel pump. Good flow of gas. 5-Installed a filter between the tank and the electric fuel pump. 6-Checked all clamps. 7-Checked the flow of the electric pump to the filter. Its OK. I put the car in the sun (110 degrees now) and started the engine and let it run for 15 minutes without the electric fuel pump on. The engine idled rough after 15 minutes and died. I adjusted the throttle for 1000RPM with all the accessories on including A/C and I engaged the fuel pump. With all the accesories and electric pump on, the engine run for another 10 minutes and died without being able to start it again. The engine temperature is normal. I removed the filter from the hose coming from the line: the filter is dry. I started the electric fuel pump alone and nothing is coming from after two minutes. To conclude, the problem happens when it is very hot. When cold, the electric pump give gas supply but when it is very hot it fails.

Has been redone three years ago but no filter between the tank..... and the electric pump. My best bet is to change the electric pump and install a filter at the inlet.

4/72, #78117

Deez, Thanks for your comment. My feeling is also that something is going wrong at the back because when the hose in remove from the filter and the rear pump is on, no fuel is coming to the filter for a very long time.

The car is full stock original and has never been modified. The problem occurs only in very hot climate situation during the day. Morning and evening, the car runs just fine with no problem and full power.

It is not even 110 degrees yet here and I am starting to have more serious vapor lock problems than the years before. 1-All my lines are wrapped with insulation. 2-I have an electric pump at the gas tank. 3-Fuel filter is clean. 4-Mechanical fuel pump has been replaced last winter. Here my questions: 1-Is it possible that the gas could be in vapor from the gas tank (electric pump) to the front filter? I removed the filter and there is no gas coming just from the electric pump. The pump works. 2-Could it be possible that the electric pump could be partially clogged not delivering a proper flow of fuel to the filter? 3-The front filter has never more than half of gas in the bowl. Is it normal? In the vapor lock situation, the filter is completely empty. 4-After one hour, the engine can be started again but the filter doesn't fill more than one quarter of its capacity which seems to me very low. Thanks for any suggestions.