richard1

I have a coolant leak that I am trying to figure out from where it comes since several weeks. Every week I had a a quart of coolant in the radiator. No trace of leaks on the floor, no coolant in the crankase, all hoses are tight, radiator cap changed a month ago, engine dry everywhere. Today. I saw a spot of coolant on the floor and from the way the car was parked, it is on the left side and could come from the transmission. I have not looked under the car yet but is it possible that the coolant line that goes from the bottom of the radiator to the transmission could be part metal and part braided rubber hose which would explain the leak at the transmission. The Nissan and Hayes shop manuals are not clear on the subject and the parts book confusing with two different parts numbers. The transmission is a 3N71B The car is fully original and the coolant line that goes to the transmission has never been touched.

I changed the connector that was loose because sometimes my gauge was working, sometimes not. I was twisting the wire and was coming back for a day or so and after nothing. My feeling it is a bad contact again because it doesn't work anymore. Could it be possible that the temperature sending unit itself could be the problem?

Sometime ago, I read on this board that the phase 1 Z if fully original and unrestored was a rare breed in some Asian countries as Hong kong and Japan and worth more than a Skyline GT overthere. If i remember it was a kind of cult car. Is it true and is there an association or a club in these countries that promote the phase 1 Z?

I read the previous treads on the subject and I will go right to my particular problem which is a ventilation one. The top lever is pushed to the far right and is supposed to close the fresh air vent. The lever close but with some restriction.(the cables are not bent) There is still cold air coming from the side and center outlets which seems that there is no recirculation as supposed to be. Some months ago, the original heater motor's squirrel cage partially desintegrated. I replaced with the Honda unit that blowed so strong that the broken parts of the original squirrel cage went up to the side vents. As far as I think, no other broken pieces may still be in the system. Now is what seems curious to me: Three months ago, My car has been repainted and the top cowl grill has been removed. It makes sense that the air intake is on the passenger side but is covered with some material that feel like a rubber kidney but is now orange as the original color of the car. When I look at the parts book, there is nothing related to a part like that over the square hole I can see as this air intake in the original Datsun parts book. Is it possible that my problem can come from a protective masking to keep off paint fumes to come in the air intake when it has been repainted and the body shop forgot to remove it? The car is fully original and former concours before a collision back in 2005.

Does it means that if one day i have a problem with my Sanden sankyo compressor, I have just to buy a new one and it will fit right there. Also, the shop I am doing business in town is very respected in this field and I asked if it would be a good idea to go with the R134. They told me to never to that because the R12 is better about performance, all the parts are still available and the cost of the coolant itself is not a major factor for converting to R134. What are the opinions about that?

Here we are, it is the Sanden/sankyo that is installed in my 72 and the unit has been trouble free since it has been in the car from the dealer 34 years ago. My condensor is full size the size of the radiator (I have never seen a York condensor) and installed in front of the radiator. I keep a regular maintenance every two years and it blows cold as in a modern car. This summer, I have had the blower fan replaced with a Honda unit and it is quite a difference in performance here in vegas during the summer. I am sad that some of you guys have had your airboxes botched for the compressor fit.

Yes I also saw Zymol at Pep Boys. For now, I have used TR3 which is also a tin can and sold as a cleaner, desoxidizer and polish. Good results but I believe I can obtain more gloss after this TR3 treatment.

I understand. My compressor is a rotary type instead of piston as the York model and is located under the air pump. It is barely visible and not a nuisance at all. I don't know if I am correct but it seems that your type of compressor was more commonly mounted on the passenger side close to the fuel pump.

Astrohog, Why do you want to remove it? Why bother to remove this stuff? My suggustion is let it there and simply don't bother to remove and plug holes. Just my opinion.

Thanks Jimmy. Yes it is the original paint and I have been pretty good at keeping it shiny. I am just wondering about the result of this product named "Liquid Glass" which is quite expensive at twenty bucks a tin can.

for some errands. We still are close to the 90s here in Vegas. Original A/C works better than ever with the Civic motor fan replacement. Now, it is to cold and I need to use the lower control speeds. It cost me $35.00 for the complete assembly. My A/C compressor is the rotary model(not piston type) installed below the air pump. It has never been rebuilt from new, believe it or not. I was at a stop light with a brand new 350z on my right side. The guy wanted to talk about my full original Z. We don't have power windows, so we must go and say bye bye..... It feels good to have one of these time capsule machines.....

Sometimes ago I posted a question on the board about waxes. Is anybody has ever use Liquid Glass? It is a tin can of about 14oz and cost about twenty bucks. What is the best product to bring a glass shine to a 34YO original paint job?

Carl,I am not an expert but I agree with you. Way back in 1974, my wife bought a used 70 z. At the time we were living in Quebec. The car was a nightmare to live with: Frame rust, hatch hinges broken, carbs, brakes...... To set-up the lawsuit, Nissan Canada gave us a big discount for a 710 Coupe that have been our main car for four years without problems. The 72 I bought from a museum in 2001 was a more civilized machine and with better quality controls about the frame rails that were so prone to corrosion. The car was so original that the black spray quality control ckeck marks were still on the frame and front radiator frame assembly. It is always a pleasure to drive this car anytime I can as a full stock version down to the hubcaps..... mainly original orange paint.

Following two collisions with my original concours Z (not anymore) I kept the original paint for the most part and I still want the shine no matter it is 34 YO. The new panels are base coat/clear coat and the balance is the original paint that I deoxidize twice a year with TR3 to go back to its glossy finish. I know that the paint is going thinner but it is original once. One day, she will have a full "spa rejuvanation" but not yet. Recently, I stopped by a Pep Boys store and saw a product whose name is "Glass Finish" (I maybe wrong about the exact brand name) but it is the most expensive wax in the display at $21.00. it is a tin can of about 12 oz with a Corvette on a tan background. Is somebody has ever use this product and does it gives a glossy finish to match newer sprayed panels?

I have the exact same one in a brand new box and was wit the car when I bought it in 2001.

Where can I find the proper diameter copper washers for the oil pan plug? I ordered some spare ones a year ago and they are too small. They are not anymore listed in the Motorsport catalog and I think they came from them In the meantime, I use teflon tape and works fine. What is the ID 11/16?

I just put a new starter and battery because I was suspecting the starter and battery to be both problems. Now, for sure, the starter was faulty. The battery, maybe at fault also in very hot climate as Vegas (battery only 18 months old). The voltage box has been replaced last year. Now, the problem: The car starts fine but sometimes when the ignition goes to start, it "click,click,click. I close the switch and start again and it goes fine. I checked the terminal that goes to the selenoid. the connector was loose. I replaced the connector. The problem is still there. Further examination of the new starter let me come to this question: The wire from the starter to the selenoid has a section where the wire is bared at the base of the starter housing. Could it be the source of the problem? All connections are tight, other connections to the starter have been redone with new connectors and wires as needed. The cars starts fine on a nine on ten scale. Where must I follow my investigation to solve this problem?

First, I have gone through all the archives of this site. about the dealer installed A/C units and it seems that I have the Sankyo/Sanden compressor installed on the driver's side. As you will understand the compressor unit is installed below the air pump and not easy to service. The receiver/dryer is the "coke bottle" unit mounted on the the passenger side fender well. My questions are as follow: 1- Is this unit has been sold under the brand name of "fridgiking"? 2- The unit has been serviced two years ago and I am in need of a refill. Here in Vegas, ther A/C shops that still have R-12 are robbers charging in excess of $200.00. I can find some R-12 cans (real R-12) at decent price to fill up. Also, I found the proper filling hose to do the work myself. Where is the valve in the system to fill up?

Thanks to Escalon and Arne for the clarifications. Next weekend, i will investigate further about the hidden wiring and connections as told by arne and i will come back with my comments. As for the eletrical pump pressure mentionned in one of the posts above, it is rated beetween 2 and 5 PSI. I have a 160 thermostat but in very hot days after shut off and start up, I have the feeling that the engine is starving in traffic or at stop lights and idling a lot lower than when the engine is cool. The temperature is always normal no matter it is 100 0r 115 in the traffic at idling but my feeling is the gas is evaporing during the time it goes from the tank to the carb bowls. I am pretty sure that it is a percolating problem because I have owned a fully restored 1949 Buick Riviera until two years ago and I discovered after many years that my problem during the summer was the gas percolating in the filter bowl causing the carburator to get "dry". For the Z, I observed that the electrical pump helps during the hottest days and when I start the car after a stop of ten to fifteen minutes beetween errand, it is easier for the engine to iddle smoother.

So, if I understand, the blue taped female connector would be for the fog lamps but why did I found a male connector and it relies to the electric fuel pump? Also, it means that the fuse holder that you are speaking about must be hidden far under the dash. Did you found a fuse in it and is the car a 72? I have not these white fuse brackets on the side of my fuse box.

Escalon, I believe you have a good understanding of the problem and your analysis is spot on. The top leading edge front and back is splitting, but the door was from a rust free arizona car and the same orange color. I know that the door has been stripped to bare metal and if the work has to be redone, my insurance company will be cooperative. I will never accept JB Weld as a repair and it will be very clear. This restoration shop has a reputation to substain.

Escalon, in response to your comment above, I obseved that the skin has also started to split not just at the front but also at the rear where the finishing molding grabs. Today I was looking closer to the problem and i saw that the paint is like "shrinking" or showing "spider webs" under the paint. What happens now? Threr is no problem like that anywhere else.

Is there a way to adjust rattling on the driver's glass window when half way down? Also, since my driver's door has been replaced following my accident in 09/05, the outer skin has started to split from the top of the door.What can be done without dismantling the door and doing all the job again? The insurance company is not the problem because the car is insured and appraised for more than 20K. Now I understand why the outside rubber window sweeper is not close to the window. I told the restoration specialist about the problem but all these little adjustments to be done and parts to come take way too much time since they have been ordered two months ago. Comments are welcome.

It may be a stupid question but I have an argument with my son. Last year I installed an electric fuel pump to supply the mechanical one when the temperature in Las vegas goes up to 100F because of vapor lock and gas evaporation. He is the primary user of the car that is fully original with A/C. Since I have never been able to fix the problem of the electric pump to works without at least the parking lights being on, he tells me that the gas consumption is a lot higher.(there is something weird in the wiring harness to add this optional electric fuel pump that was part of the 73 set-up but optional on the 72) It seems that the gas consumption with the A/C on without the electric pump is better than 200 miles for a full tank of gas but when the electric pump is on it goes under 200 miles. The car is mechanically perfect and we are aware of top maintenance in the warmest months here. Who is right?

Guys, Please, serious and constructive comments on the subject. If you have nothing to say, keep it shut. Now for those who have had some brain to respond on this trade and give advise, here some input from my insurance company. The adjuster will send me detailed pictures he took when he made the final payment to the body shop. From now, he is very surprised about my complain concerning the body shop and the body shop owner called him today about my disappointment and concern. He stays with the opinion the car has been hit again. Tomorrow, I will take measurements from flat ground on both side of the car and I will post my comments about any discrepancies of my detailed readings from both sides. One question: Is the lower valence the same on the 240 through 280z? i will take pictures and try to have them posted.