zeiss150

Well what an interesting day I had. I got to test drive a 350Z with a 6 speed trany, and let me tell you its a nice car, but... my 1972 240Z "feels" faster. I don't know if my L24 engine is getting more torque or what but my Z deffinatly feels faster. Now i'm not saying my Z is faster, just that it "felt" faster. Am I crazy? Has anyone else had this experiance? Just incase you were wondering I'm run a stock L24 block with an E-88 head (rebuilt, steel seats, 3 angle valve job, the works) Motorsport header with a 2 1/2 inch exaust pipe into a dynomax muffler, SU carbs, and an 82 zx electronic ignition. I really need to get my car dyno'd. I would love to now what my 0-60 is. I'm dieing to hear other opinions. Rock on!!! Matt-

Hey Daniel, How about option #3... Use the E31 head (don't for get to put in new steel seats) buy a motor sport header 6 into 2, 2 into 1 (which will bolt right up to that head) then get a 2 3/4 inch Y tube that comes with the header and run your exaust. I have the 2 1/2 inch exaust with a dynomax muffler and it fits perfect on my 72 240z(E-88 head). I dont know if the 80 zx pipes have the same bends in them, if anything you can use the muffler the pipes aren't that expensive. But what ever you do dump that stock exaust manifold in the trash and go with a header. My header from motorsport was $154.00 with the Y pipe and the gasket. Just so you know... that E-31 head is a very popular head, they are hard to find. Most people wanted them to make a high compression racer. but it could make a bitch'n street car. Matt-

Hey James, Good info. on the K. You do have something a little wrong about the 240Z though. In the USA the 240Z was standard with a 4 speed manual. The 240 didn't have auto trans untill 1972 and then it was and option not standard. That is what went down in the good old USA, I have no idea what happend on your little island:D . But, If your driving an L6 your a friend of mine. good times and good driving, even in a 240KROFL . Matt-

hmmm there isnt a big huge differance in CR between heads the E-31 is 42.4 CC and the N-47 is 44.6 CC. The L28 block your using has dished pistons and that is your main problem and it really lowers your CR. even with the E-31 head your CR is only 8.56.1. TheN-47 head has the steel liners in the exaust to burn off any unburned fule. From what I have read It doesn't interfear with exaust flow. The N-47 does have bigger valves but the low compression(8.29:1) is no fun. The best of both worlds would be to have your E-31 head rebuilt with new steel seats and larger valves. But if money is a problem that would set you back a good $400.00. If your E-31 head has never been rebuilt it really should because it has brass valve seats and they sink over time, but so does the N-47, so either way you probably have bad vavle seats. As far as bolting up your exaust manifold I belive that all the heads are exactly the same, I could be wrong though. Using the engine calculator the best engine set up would be L-28 block/ dished pistons, E-31 with new valve seats and larger (N-47) vavles, Use an HKS 1mm head gasket that would give you a CR of 8.75:1. the other option is to get a flat top piston L28 block with your E-31 head with a stock head gasket gives you a 10.2:1 CR:D . Then all you will need is a Header and exaust packedg a good set of SU's electronic ignition a mild cam and you should have yourself a bad arse rocket . I hope this info was helpful. Matt-

Yo Yo, UUUUMMMMM, you put a 3 speed auto in a Z .... Just wondering why someone might want to do that. Im not bagging on you, just .... wondering. as to the heating problem are you sure your radiator is still good or is it a three or four row? Good luck. Matt

I think this could be a great Idea, with all of the brain power on this site Im sure this can be maid a reality. If you did reverse the flow I'm sure that it would be really easy to check that the coolant flowed at the same rate. It would be bitch'n to run 10.5:1 on 92 oct. If it didn't bennifit the engine the I dont think the GM engineers would have spent the time on top down cooling if they couldnt get more horse power out of it. You can't win big if you dont bet big. And if it doesn't work, SO WHAT! And if it does work... My 4 cents Matt-

great Idea, sounds like an expensive water pump. looks like a trip to the CNC machine is in your future. If you can figure how to reverse the flow direction let us know. bitch'n MattROFL

Hi, I got mine from Motorsport in California I think a set of new head bolts was $65.00. (800) 633-6331 they can ship them to you real quick. Or just stop in at your local Nissan dealer and im sure you can get a set for about $100.00. Head bolts arnt somthing you can get at a local parts store, belive me I tried! Good luck, Matt-

I did some checking on this one Justin,(cause im a nerd and I am always looking for more power) The SU's are bitch'n carbs they will easly power a 2.6 or even a 2.8 with out any modification. I talked with several guys that built 3.1 liter strokers and they used the SU's with SM needles. You can modify the stock SU's for a suped up 2.8 that is pulling 200 pluse horse power. The only modification needed is thoes SM needles which you can get from Ztherapy for about $30. If you find that you need more "juice" I've heard of guys using Jaguar SU's which are designed for a much bigger engine. Vrooooooommmmmm! Later Matt-

Hey justin, My Z runs a little rough when cold, but I just use my choke and it works great, It can take a good 5 to 10 minuets of stop and go driving to get it nice and warm. I also have to crank it a bit in the morning to get it started. Bean dip had a great tip about the piston oil for the carbs 20 weight oil works great. By the way i've been running my idle at about 750 to 800 and it runs really smooth. Isn't it summer where you live ring now? In the summer time In sunny california where I live I don't use choke at all. Matt-

Hey peopel, I thought all Z blocks used the same head gasket? its the same block with different bores isn't it? Or does it have different water passeges? By the way is the F-54 with flat tops and an E-88 head a good way to go? and what kind of RWHP can one expect. I used my L engine calculator and It comes up with 9.8:1 with a standard gasket. A bit hi with pump gas, No? If you use a HKS 2mm gasket it comes up 9.09:1 that will work on pump gas, won't it? I dont know what I'm talking about so forgive me, but what is the highest compression ration that you can run on pump gas and still have an everday driver with out a massive cam and head work? Also why use the E-88 head over the N-42 doesn't the N-42 have bigger valves? It also has smaller CC's right? E-88 = 44.7 cc's N-42=44.6, not much of a differance but the valves make a differance, don't they? I seek the wisdom of Phred:beard: Matt-

Hey, the original SU's come with a heat sheild, mabe you could fabricate a heat shield between your carbs and header befor you invest in a new header, or just switch back to the bitchn SU's . Just kidding im sure your tripples are bitchn too. By the way how do you know there getting how, what's happening? Matt-

hey people, I modified a fan shroud from a 78 280z (it's a two piece) to fit my 240Z I works great. I think ive seen an original 240Z shroud made out of metal, (It's a one piece) or im full of shiet ? I know motorsport in california sells a 240Z fan shroud made out of fiber glass for $69.95 (part# 16-7061 www.zcarparts.com its a one piece) I've never seen the splash pan befor so, god bless the CZC forums! Matt- :ermm:

Hey Justin If it runs good and your happy with it ... then good times my friend! Brown spark plugs and no black smoke is also a good sign. I had to lean mine front carb up a bit because my #2 cylinder was always black, but I think i have that fixed. I have a question for you, how is your idle is it nice and smooth or is it a little "bumpy"? Mine seems smooth as slik at about 700 rpm's. enjoy your finely tuned Z. Good times in the land down under my friend. Matt-

Hey Justin, Sounds like your doing well. The other post is right about the screw's not moving the same. that is covered in the video. While you have the round tops off check your needle lenths to make sure they are the same. You can adjust the idle screws with out a flow meter but I was suprised how suttle the adjustments were, just an eighth of a turn makes quite a differance and I couldn't hear a differance, in the sucking sound but you could see it with a meter. good luck Justin. Matt-

What they said! It's an L-24 it will run! Good luck and let us know when it starts. P.S. You may want to check your thermostat and coolent to make sure that they are fresh and in good order. Matt-

Hey Justin, The Ztherapy video is AWSOME!!!!!! I was having problems with my Z and I bought the video (they have it on DVD now) and pow, it runs great. But let me tell you for a quick fix, 1. set your valves (hot, 12thou ex, 10thou, in). this is a must. 2. set your timeing, get it as advanced as posible with out "pinging" under load, about 8 degrees BTDS(I think). 3. screw up your mixture adjusting nut ( under the carb) till it stops. Then screw it down 2 1/2 turns down on each carb. this is just a starting point as recomended by Ztherapy. If your running to rich turn up nut euqal amounts on each cab. 4. Adjust idle screw (its the one by the butterfly valve) WITH A FOLWMETER Untill they are both balanced. first at idle the flow meter should read about "6" then at 2500 rpms meter should read "25". 4a. the flow meter I used is from Motorsport www.zcarparts.com for $27.95 part # 60-9976. Its a great meter, I have used the other meter that is cheeper and belive me it's worth the 5 bucks more. I don't belive that you can truly tune your SU's with out it. If you want to call in your order in (800)633-6331 ask for Sal he's a great guy and he know's his stuff. 5. adjust the carb balance screw so that both pistons rise at the same rate when throtteling up. kinda look at them to see that they go up at the same rate. 6. test your new tuned carbs buy doing 0-60 in 7 sec. I hope that this was helpfull and dont forget the Ztherapy DVD its called Just SU's www.ztherapy.com let us know if any of this helps! Later Matt-

I think my head is going to explode! I just noticed that my differential is a 3.54 which they suposedly only put in automatics from 70-73. One thing that I know for sure is that my Z is a stick from the factory. so what's with the 3.54 it was suposed to have a 3.36. Is it posible that someone changed out the diff allready? and if so how would I know? :dead: Welcome the the black hole of the Z Car misteries.

Hey, I dont have a braket on my 240 panel and I have a brand new sony radio int there it it fits great. Maybe im missing some suport? wouldn't be the first thing missing on the carLOL. good luck people. Matt-

2manyzs thats a great site I've seen it before but I never went to the differential part of it. Its perfect info. I don't supose you have any Ideas on my other "help" post its called #2 cylinder rich. No one seem's to be interested in it, or they dont have an answer to it. thanks for the help my Z bothers! Matt-

Hey guy's What kind of "value" would a goof in the door plate hold? Not that I would ever sell the car, after all the blood sweat, and cash I'v put into this Z. How can I how can i verify an original door plate? Also the main reason that im interested in the production date of my trany is so that I know what Differential is designed to work with it i.e. 3.70 3.90. Thanks for all the info guys. This is a great web site. Matt-

Wow! thanks for the offer William. my vin # is HLS3081055. that's a long drive just for a door plate, but you must love driving your z as much as I do:D . Im in the process of restoring my 72, I found it in a dirt lot missing a wheel with a salvage title. It's been a total restoration. Im doing all the work my self from the seats to the engine to the body and paint. Some day not to far off ill be driving the most beautiful Z around. I have another question for you, I put a 5 speed in my z from a junk yard 280 but I dont know what year the trany was from do you know if there is a way to find out what year the trany is from with the serial #. Thanks for you help william. Sincerely, Matt Carso

Yep, I have weird parts too. I have the rear window from a 71 but my z was built in 5 -72. Also my door jam info plate say's that my car weight is 2800 plus LBS what's up with that 280z's went up that high 72 240's were only suposed to weigh in at around 2389 lbs. so did I get a door jam plate from a 260 2+2 which didn't come out untill 74:stupid:. anyone got any answers for me? Matt-

Hey party people, ok problem # 968 :cross-eye I have an L24 with an E-88 head that has been totally re-built. I just adjusted the valves and I have the timeing down and i have the carbs synced and all my plugs look nice and brown except for #2! #2 is black and sooty. I checked for spark and its plenty strong the only thing that I can think of is that the intake valve is set wrong, but how can that be? 10 thousand's hot right!? that's what all the other intake valves are set at and the plugs are "golden brown". Could there be something wrong with the valve. allright people hook me up with your Z car wisdom. Matt-

Yo bean dip, I used the PRP kit Great parts Sorry but I don't know anything about the other kit. Good luck, oh yeah I paid about $200 from motorsports in So. Cal. that kit does about 95% of the car. Matt-