zeiss150

Hi guys, problem #967! Here it is ... I just tuned my 72 240 su's with the ztherapy video, and wow what a differance. It ran perfect, for 2 day's:cry: . For what ever reason it started ideling really rough, I tryed adjusting the carbs but nothing I did helped. It seemed like it was an electrical problem so I check my plugs they were all brown except for the #2 plug it was sutty, so I assume that its rich or the plug wasnt fireing. So just to make sure I replace the plugs, and it still ran like crap! So I check the wire ( I held the plug to the block), it works. Now here is where it gets weird, It runs great when I get on the gas:ermm: It drives great (as far as I can tell, cause I dont have anything to compair it to) untill I come to a stop then the rough idel starts, ... gas = smooth, idel= rough. Could it be the electric distributor? Could it be a blown head gasket? could it be a bent valve? Im just guessing, I have no idea where to go from here? Help! P.S. I just rebuilt the engine 8 months ago, new head,bearings, everything. Matt-

Update, NO MORE SMELL!!! That's right i fixed it. Thanks to the Ztherapy's tune up video. If your running SU's I can't recomend it enough. It turns out that if there not tuned right your get really smelly exaust:stupid: Well there it is. thanks for everyone that posted. Matt-

Hmmm? The only thing I can think of is that the float needles are bad. If there is a ring worn into the tip of the needle it might not be seating. Also bean dip was right to check the float it's self make sure that it actually floats. To make sure that the needles are shutting off do this. take off the float bowl lid disconect the fule line, let the float hand down, now blow into the fule line and listen for air comming out of the needle. Once you hear the air comming out move the float up untill you hear the air being shut off. If it doesn't shut off then you know its the needles. By the Way the proper float hight is .55 inches, basicly a half inch. Measure from the end of the float and edge of the lid. I didn't set my float right once and was starving my engine once, it ran terrible. If the needles are original I bet a dollar that they are bad. Good luck and keep us posted. Matt-

Hey beandip, I know this is a little off the subject but since we are talking about SU's do you think that a properly tuned set could feed a 3.1 leter L28 monster? Im sort of thinking about going that way. Thanks Beandip you're allways full of great advice. Matt-

Hey I would check your float bowl needle's and seats first. It sound like the needle isn't shutting the gas off. The needle has a rubber tip and it can get old and leak. You can replace it with a "ball cage" seat. I think you can buy them from ztherapy. They also sell a great DVD on SU's. For a L28 block you might want to put in SM needles(in the main jet not the float bowl) they give you more gas from what I understand. Ztherapy rocks they can totaly hook you up with SU info. I bet they even have tips on an L28 conversion. good luck and keep us posted. Matt-

Sorry for the lacke of info, I didn't want to leave a huge thread. so here is all the info. All smog "stuff" is gone no smog pump, I have a header a 6-2 2into1 21/2 inch exaust pipe and dinomax flowmaster muffler. I have a stock intake manifold and original su carbs. By the way its a 72 240 and i am running a L24. The head is an E-88. The su's have a leak in the butterfly valve bushing (as far as I can tell). I get about 22 mph (which I think is low) and im running an 81 5 speed. I dont think its been killing brain cells or anything but it just stinks. there isnt any smoke or anything. could more carb tunning be the problem? I know the valves are set just right. From what people are saying zcars just stink? Would the smog pump fix it? or is that a horse power zapper? well if you need any more info please let me know. Zeiss-

Read this! http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/377396/3 I got a huge kick out of it. I am clearly Zick! Zeiss-

Hey guys, Ok Z problem # 95 (god I love my Z) ! What would cause my exause to smell really "exausty" (new word). the engine is totally rebuilt. new rings all new bearings the head was totally redone 3 angle valve job new seats the works. I think I might have a leak in my SU's on the butterfly valve bushings. So what could be making my exaust smell so bad??? help:alien:

Thanks bruce, I fixed it! It turns out that some how some dirt got past my filters and cloged the fule line from the float bowl to the get. With that cloged line the fule pressure must have been enough to push the needle down. I would love to buy the ztherapy video but you don't sell it in DVD. I dont have a VCR any more. Please let me know if you can get me one on DVD. Thanks bruce, and Beandip too. This web site rocks!!!! Zeiss150

hey beandip, Im pretty sure that the float is solid. Its not the metal kind its the plastic kind. I'll dubble check though. thanks for your help beandip.

Hey beandip, I did adjust the float as well as checking to make sure that nothing was blocking the needle. The gas was comming out of the float bowl vent so the float bowl is definatly filling up. could something be going on with the head, or am i just reall not adjusting the needle right? Thanks

HELP!!! Here is what happened, I filled up my gas tank and started driving around and gas started spitting a steady streem out of the front carb float boal vent pipe???! So I figured that the float needle wasn't shutting off the gas. I took it apart and fixed it or should i say tried to fix it. I put it back together and the exact same thing happened. What is going on? Its a new needle I addjusted it today! the butterfly valve is working im lost. Help!!!!

Not that Im an expert ... but, I would make sure that you have gas going through thoes fule injectors. When gas sits around for a while it turns into "goooo" Try some thing simpel like a fule injector cleaner. Make sure that you are getting fule. If you have Fule, Spark, and Compression, ... you have Vrrrrrrrooooom! I would make sure I have spark. Take out each spark pulg (one at a time) hold the plug electrod up against the engine and "look" for that little blue spark. Well ... thats all I've got. Good luck! Let us know your progress.

Hey people, First let me say what a great site this is. All the answers to my z seem to be here in one form or another. Can you put an AC set up form a 80-83 280zx into a 72 240? If so is it a real pain in the arse or a quick easy job. My Z never had AC. I know about the Motorsport setup but its $800 and Im on a budget. Thanks guys Zeiss150-

Bitch'n !!!! thanks that's exactly what I was looking for! zeiss150-

Ok, does anyone know of a way to repair the heating elements that run through the hatch galss. I'm sure I have to sent it out but to who? How much would something like that cost? thanks, Zeiss150

If you have vents on the hatch deck below the window Its a pretty good chance that you have a 1971. If you look on the passenger side of the engine between the first and second spark plug it should say E-31, that would pretty much confirm a 70 or 71. I take it that the 0-1 71 you posted was from the door? If it was I would guess that it was made in january of 71. If you have the vents and the E-31 head you're in great shape the early 240's are highly saut after. Hope this infor helps.

Don't feel dumb ... we all start somewhere. The best way to find the year is on the inside "driver side" door frame. There will be an aluminum plate pop rivited to the door frame It will tell you manufacture date. if its a 240 it will have been made between oct 1969 and some time around Augest September 1973. anything after that in 1973 is a 260z. A good indicator will also be the hatch glass If the heater elements are vertical its a 71 or earlyer, If there horizontal its 72-73. If that metal plate isnt there... I think you can go by the serial # its by the defrost vents on the driver side It looks like HLS30-123456. What you do with the serial # is ask someone smater than me what to do with it :stupid: Hope this helps you out. Merry Christmas everyone!

Phred, What is ITS? Sorry still learning. What kind of mods did the l24 have and do you know what kind of rear wheel HP that 165 flywheel HP translates to. one last question... what kind of 0-60 can I expect from a 165 flywheel HP. Thanks guys your info is invalualble. Matt-

Beandip, what your saying is that the best think I can do for my L24 is go with electronic ignition. But how much horsepower will that give me, or will it just make the car run smother? I really amy trying to get a 200 horsepower L24... is that possible? thanks for your info beandip.

thanks for the info ... But what kind of HP can I expect out of my L-24 setup? and will the lighter flywheel help at all?

Ok, this is what I have. 72 240 with e88 head,and a stock cam. Head has been rebuilt with new seats and valves(no polish and port) I rebuilt the bottom end, new rings, bearings, cylinders honed (didn't need boreing). I put a 6-2 header with a 21/2" exaust (dynamax flowmaster). I still have the old point distributer and Im still using the origanial round top SU's, I've taken off all smoge "stuff". So, that is what I have. what can I do to get more Horsepower out of this L24 engine. I am thinking about putting a light weight flywheel on and chaning to an electronic distributor. I've also read about putting in "SM" carb needels (how much are thoes?) ... What kind of rearwheel horespower can I expect to get. This is my first car engine experiance, so forgive my ignorance, any info. would be Great! Thanks !:stupid: