zeiss150

Well I'm on a mission to "make" a 240Z A/C. I know that I can use the condenser, dryer, and compressor from a ZX so that stuff im not worried about. The problem comes with the evaporator, mostly because datsun didn't make one for the US 240Z. Here is what Im thinking, If i pull an evaporator from a sentra or civic or escort or some other kind of small vehical then I should be able to make an enclosure for the evaporator that I can fit behind the dash. I know that the 280z evaporator wont fit because the dash is a different size. I want to know the dementions of the evaporator in the picture (circled in red). I got the picture from one of the members on here (he posted it in another thread) it is suposedly the Japanies 240Z A/C schematics. so I just need to know the size of that evaporator. If no one knows then I will just have to take my dash out to measure before I go down to the junk yard and try to find something that will fit. Any previous experiance would be awesome! P.S. I know about vintage air and I don't want to go that rout. Thanks, Matt-

try this one, Did you check the distributor shaft alinment? If you put the dizzy shaft in wrong it doesn't matter if the timing chain is right your timing will always be off. I have an F54 N42 combo, but Im running SU's (less crap to go wrong)I had that problem when I rebuilt mine It was off by one tooth and it ran like crap, but it did run so it could be different from your problem. Also I would never use the bosh jettronic FI, It was cool for 1975 but so was the commador 64. I'm just say'n... know what I'm say'n. Good luck and let us know what the #2 nissan guy in all the land has to say

Ok, I used some copper wire (like 12 gauge) to make a brush out of. It works great. I took the Z out and tested the horn several times, it worked every single time. Thanks again guys for all of your help! Matt-

IT WORKS!!!!!! once I got the relay wired right the horns worked great! now all I need to do is make a little brass, (or some other flexable conductive metal) "brush" and connect the red/black wire to that and I will have a horn that works when you push the button. I could have used that about 10 times today:mad: stupid drivers. Anyone have any tips on makeing a brush? Thanks for all of your help guys! great relay explanation E. Matt-

Hey guys. I looked and I don't have the "brush". I can deal with that but I have an other problem. I tested the horn by grounding it and the relay clicks on, but it stays on. so I'm wondering why. Do I have the wires mixed up on the relay is there somthing wrong with the horns, is the relay bad? I tried unpluging the horns and with them unpluged when I ground the red/black wire the relay clicks on and off. Where am i going wrong here. which wire goes where on the relay there are 3 connection posts labled B H S, and there are green, green/red, and green/black wires. right now I have green=H green/black=B, and green/red=S, is that right? I also check the connection at the horn button, I grounded the red/black wire on the back side of the stearing wheel and when I push the horn the relay clicks on and off (as long as the horns are unpluged.) Thanks guys! Matt-

Awesome photo Mike. So there is on wire from the wheel to the collum. there is a brass "brush" that makes constant contact with the wheel... ill Have to look for it. If I can't figure it out ill let you know. Matt

When I rebuilt my L24 I had a real problem getting the head off because 3 of the head bolts were rusted and broke off half way into the head. What finally worked was to use wood wedges. the Aluminum is stronger than the wood so you wont damage the head but the wood will be strong enough to break the rust seal around the bolts. It took me several hours of wedging and prying, wedging and prying. the deeper i got into the head the more wedges i would "stack" I think the head was about 2 inches off the block before the "rust seal" finally broke and I was able to lift the head off. make sure you wedge both sides equally. good luck Matt-

hey Z people! I bought a stearing wheel on ebay several years ago I restored it and put in on my Z ... it looks great. The horn has never worked. I replaced an old momo stearing wheel with the Z wheel and the horn didn't work on that either. The z wheel didn't have any wires coming out of it from the horn button. The only thing that I noticed was two metal rings that are on the horn button that if you were to push the horn the metal rings would contact and then the horn would work.... right? But where are the wires? I still have my origanal 240Z horns and they work just fine, I just don't know how to get it to work with my horn button. I can't tell you how many times i've wanted to honk at stupid drivers and I can't, HELP! Matt

welcome Vexxation! It look like you have a lot to learn but don't be dicouraged, When I started working on my Z 4 years ago I didn't know anything about Z's or car engines for that matter. Here is a linke that will open your eyes to your Z and what kind of engine and the potential it has. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html The z engine can make anywhere from 140 Rear Wheel Horse Power to almost 500 RWHP. The differance in the HP is how much money you want to spend and how good of a mechanic you are. Parts are easy to find The Z engine was made for 13 years in all kinds of different variations so there are plenty of parts available. The sky is the limmit with your Z its up to your imagination and your wallet. this is what I did with my Z! Good luck and let us know if you have any questions.

Hey Bo, The class is held at fullerton high school. It is run through the north orange county ROP program. The class is monday through friday 8am - 5am, it covers everything including mig welding. The cool thing about the class is you dont have to go all day every day... you just go when you can and as long as you can. do a google search for north orange county ROP and you'll find it. I hope this helps, and I cant wait to see the color you pic for your Z. Matt-

Hey Z people! I just thought I would share my paint job results. I painted my Car in November, I used PPG LeMans Sunset (Nissan 350Z color A17). It is a 2 stage paint, base coat/ clear coat. I used a professinal spray booth at my local high school. There is an adult education program for auto body paint and repair that is taught there, for $20 you can learn how to do body work and paint your car in a pro spray booth. I still need to color sand the hood and fenders but so far I think it looks beautiful. I'm getting the bumpers welded up and re-chromed, once I get them back and on the Z I'll take some awesome pictures of my car. If you have any questions please let me know. Matt-

Are you going to take the head off? The reason I ask is because I would be worried about dropping a valve into the cyclinder. Once you pull the retainer clips there is nothing holding the valve up. If the piston is down in the cyclinder then wont your valve slip out of reach? I put my Stage 2 schnider cam on with the head off. I got it from MSA also... I've been very happy with the kit, but I don't have tripples, im running SU's. As far as the rockers go... I would deffinatly have them reground. the old cam has made very small wear patterns in the rocker pad and if you don't have them resurfaced then the old wear pattern will wear out your new cam in no time at all. At least thats what I have been told countless times. better safe than sorry. Spring compressors! the clamp kind suck... I speak from experiance. I spent hours trying to take off the springs with the stupid clamp kind of compressor. After I got them off I took a trip down to MSA and I told Sal how much trouble I was having with my valve springs. Sal was nice enough to lend me his "leverage" spring compressor. I was awesome. I put all of my springs back in 45 minutes. JimmyZ Made a great tool, but instead of bolting it to the bench just turn thoes long amrs into hooks that hook around the cam shaft, then you can use the leverage off the cam shaft. It looks just like JimmyZ's design but with hooks instead of table bolts. Good luck and let me know if you do it with the head on the block, cause I wanna know how you did it without loosing a valve into the the block. I heard that you could use air pressure to keep the valve seated but Im not sure how that could work. Rock on Z people! Matt-

Yes I am running a 5 speed tranny with a 3:54 rear end. My engine is a ballanced, flat top 20 thou over, L28 with an N42 head/ schnider cam 460 lift 270 duration and SU's with N54 needles, headers, electric dizzy, and some other crap that I cant remember now. As far as the chips in the windshield ... well, drive a 1000 miles in any car and rocks from the road, salt from snow clearing, wind driven sand, will mess up any wind shield, and i avoid those stupid rock haulers like the plage. The chips in the windshield are a bummer, but I didn't build a trailer queen, I built a driver. at 90 mph I was at 3700 RPM's in 5th gear 120 MPH was 5500 RMP (at least I think it was I wasn't really looking at the tach for very long at that speed) as far as crusing at 90 MPH that was the average speed for a lot of the people on the highway. And my runs up to 120 were done when I was the only one on the road for at least a half mile... so if I kill someone it will only be me. I really enjoyed leaving 325i's like they were standing still going from 70 up to 90, I also get lots of looks from people as I drive over the country side. My Z is a great road trip car and I hope you can all enjoy your Z the same way I enjoyed mine. Matt-

I went from LA to Reno a little more than 500 miles each way. It was a great drive. the only bad thing was that my brand new windsheild now has about 200 little chips in it :mad: I spent an hour today washing all the dirt off, and she looks beautiful again. Matt-

Hey Z people! I took My 240 for a 1000 mile road trip. What a great drive! My Z rocked, I crused at 90 MPH for most of the drive with quick runs up to 120 MPH. The cool part is that I was getting 26 miles per gallon, with SU's! I'm kind of shocked cause my around town mileage sucks (about 17). I was just thinking how awesome it would be to have a 6 speed tranny ... I would have been able to cruse at 100 mph at 3K RPM and still got 26+ MPH. I know some guy's are moding Z32 6 speeds to work with the L28. Man I would love to drive that set up. Just thought I would share my road trip results. Rock on Z people! Matt-

Introducing the 2008 350Z!http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=17248 I know its a crappy picture but you can see the hood design and headlights really well. I think it is keeping some of the s30 lines alive. Its is also going to have a 3.8 liter engine in it but it will still be called the 350Z. I suppose Nissan thought they could get away with that as long as the engine had something to do with the #350 ... in this case it is BHP. As much as everyone on this site bitches about how horrible the 350Z is maybe they should take into consideration the huge sales success that the car has been for nissan. dont get me wrong I would love to see nissan build an 18 thousand dollar sports car that could hold its own with the corvet but it ain't gonna happen. I love all Z's not because of the way they look but because of the community that supports it. when I see 350Z's everywhere on the road I feel that the Z community is alive and well. :burnout:

I know that you guys were talking about keeping is stock but I thought I would throw out some "general" break info for anyone that might be doing a search. Also ... Sentences 3 through 6 do say it all. Matt-

Here is some great info from Hybrid Z. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103767 I did the Toyota 4 piston caliper upgrade with the ZX master and my Z stops on a dime. Matt-

Hi Gary, thank for the reply. I have replaced all of the weather striping and tail light gaskets along with the two plugs in the back of the hatch, the Hatch hinge rubber was in great shape. I'll check the drain hole for the anteni I don't remember if I pluged that one up. I know that it is an exaust leak and not fuel vapor If you stand in front of the tail pipe it smells the same as the inside of my car. I also have the N54 needles on my SU's, We have almost the same engine setup I have a ZX (flat top) with N42 head and cam (460 270) electric dizzy, 60 amp altinator, headers, 2.5 inch exaust. The valve cover vents into the stock air cleaner box just as it is suposed to. How do you check your float bowl level. I think the problem is caused by the SU's ... It just smells way to rich. It doesn't put out black smoke (or any smoke for that matter) but I can stink up a parking lot easily. I whish I could hook up an O2 sensor and see what my AFR really is. Give me a tip on how you set your float bowls Gary and I'll try that and see if it changes anything. Thanks for your help, Matt-

Hey guys. I'm just about done with my restoration of my 72 240 Z and it looks amazing. I painted it LaManes Sunset (350z Orange) but here's the problem... The car fill's with exaust. I've tried everything I can think of and nothing gets rid of it. I've replaced every gasket and weatherstriping that can be replaced. It seems to me that the problem is the engine is running to rich. I have tried to tune the SU's about a million times and only once has the car not smelled like exaust, and that only lasted about a day. I've adjusted the float bowles, changed out the needles, adjusted the mixture nuts. It seems like no matter what I do it smells like exaust. I'm going to be going turbo with my engine soon but i would like to be able to drive my Z with out smelling like i was sitting next to an exaust pipe. Any suggestions would be really Helpfull. Matt-

has anyone seen the NEW 350Z body? I saw it in Road and track the october issue the artical was called "future cars", at any rate It is slated for 2008 and it has similar "sugar scoop" headlight buckets. They are also planing on uping the the HP to 350 or so and the VQ will get a displacement bump up to 3.8 liters(shouldn't it be called a 380z then?). keep in mind that im just going from memory, so some of my info could be wrong. My main point is that they put some of the origanl S30 styling back into the Z. Also has anyone ever seen the "other" 350Z body, it took a lot of styling Q's from the S30. Just my 2 cents. Matt-

Its not Gold. That would be ugly, the lights from the spray booth are kind of yellow and with the orange metalic paint it look like gold in the pictures. It really looks like a 350Z La Manes Sunset (orange). I'll get some better pictures soon. Matt- P.S. that would be a crazy japanies pimp mobile though.

I know how you feel Maddos. I was supper nervious too. But it cam out awesome. Just take your time and make sure prep the the car really good. I up loaded some pictures that I took yesterday (the paint day from hell) The first picture is the primer that I had PERFECTLY sanded and ready the Second picture is the STUPID primer/ sealer that messed up my car The third picture is my first attempt at the base coat that ended up getting sanded off. I don't know how to post the pictures straight to the thread ... but they are in my picture album.