zeiss150

did you change your dizzy or coil at all? If you bypass the ballist resistor your tack won't work. If you hook the tack up to a 12volt source I think (and I could be wrong) it will fry the tack. I believe that the ballist resistor limits the output to the dizzy to a little over 6 volts. Other than that I can't help you, sorry. rock on Z people!

I had that problem once and it scared the $hit out of me. what was happening was that the linkage between the carbs was put back together wrong. I had to take the back carb off and figure out how to put the linkage back together right. Once I did that it was just fine. I supose that if you wanted to make sure that was the problem just take out the throttle linkage between the carbs and if it still does it, then thats not the problem. Good luck!

I think that guy in the jetta exceeded the maximum GVRW. Some of his possible thoughts... "why am I only getting 3 mpg?" "It doesn't handle like it used to?" "just one more 80lb bag of concret!" "now that's Farvagnuton" "This is such a good Idea!" "I just saved $40 on a truck rental, Who's the sucker now!" Thanks Mike I had a good laugh with those pictures.

So If I understand correctly ... the GVRW is the most weight the car can take... so 2395+500# of people and crap... and just one more pound and the wheels fall offROFL . And the Curb weight is the actual weight of the car. Thats why I love this site ... great info from great people! Rock on Z people!

Hey guys, What is the differance between GVRW (what does that stand for by the way) and Curb weight? I have a 240Z that was manufactured 5/72 My door plate say's that my GVRW is 2875lbs but according to everything I have read and can find, my Z should weight 2355Lbs. So what the hell is going on? Why would my door plate have the weight of a 75-78 280Z? I should just go weigh the car and find out what it really is. Anyone have any experiance with this?

Hey guys. What needles are stock in 72 240 SU's? The needles I have don't have anything stamped on them. I've been running SM needles with stock nozzles and I was reading some posts here and "beandip" aka Gary has been screaming about how it will ruin the L28 to run SM needles. So now I don't know what the hell to do. so should I change to smaller nozzles or should I put the stock needles back in. HELP!!!!

Really!? See there... you learn something new every day. I was reading on Ztherapy's web site (they are the SU guru's) and they were talking about how some 260's got the 3 screw carbs because customers complained about the performance of the 260 flat top carbs carbs. It doesn't suprise me that some of the 240's got them because nissan would mix and match different year parts. Thanks for the info... I always like to learn new stuff. Rock on Z people!

or just check the carbs. If they are those stupid flat top hitachi carbs ... then its a 260. truthfully its the engine that makes it a 240,260,280 they all have "almost" the same body. Check the block casting # and that will tell you if its an L26. And if you want to get all crazy ... just check the door plate:) Save your pennies!

I think this is the link you're looking for... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104196&highlight=n%2Fa+turbo you need to know how much RWHP you want ... that will help you deside what you do and dont need for the turbo swap into your 240. good luck

I can tell you with 99% certanty that it's not the starter solinoid. the solinoid is only a problem at start, once the car is started the solinoid just sits there. It sound like you're haveing either a fuel pressure problem or maybe a spark problem. is it carb'ed or fuel injection... does it start to sputter and then rev fine when you hit the gas peddel, or does it just die no matter what you do? check your spark and you're fuel, when was the last time you changed the fuel filter? the Z tanks can get lots of rust and crap in the gas tank and when it runs for a bit it sucks all that crap into the filter and then ... no gas! by the way is your gas tank at a 1/4 of a tank or lower? check out some of this stuff and see where it takes you. Rock on Z people.

I have a 3 row 240 style copper radiator that I bought on ebay about 3 years ago and it works well but it has recently sprung a leak, so I was just wondering if anyone had any experiance with the camero radiator. I might just get my radiator fixed, I was just investigating options. I don't think I want the 2inches of over hang with the ZX radiator. Thanks for your input guys, It helps alot! Matt-

Hey Z people! What is the best Z car radiator to put into a 240 Z? I have an L28 in there that puts out some pretty good heat. I've read some posts about putting 80's camero radiators in there but I'd rather put a Z radiator in. will a ZX radiator fit? Is the turbo radiator better? Any infor would be a great help. Later-

Hi Tony, Welcome! Your carbs might be way out of tune. Depending out how mechanical you are will determine your level of engine repair. The L engines are really easy to work on once you figure them out. I think you just go over the basics of your engine and make sure all the main stuff is working then you'll have a better idea of whats wrong. Check compression it should be around 150 psi per cylinder or higher(you can get a tester at the local parts place for $15 bucks) check Fuel, Well, we pretty much know you have that one but replace your fuel filter change your air filter and spray some carb cleaner into the carbs check spark, I would bet this one is lacking, you probably still have the points distributor and if thoes are the original points thats no bueno. You can get a new breaker plate or just put in an electronic distributor (thats the best idea) change your spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Once you do all that stuff then reset the carbs... there are screws on the bottom of each of the carbs if you turn them all the way UP, then turn them down 2.5 turns DOWN. 2.5 turns down is the basic starting point for tuning your carbs. If none of that works ... well then we look to other problems Oh if you have a timeing light you should check your timeing too, stock timeing is 7 degrees BTDC but most Z people run at 17 degrees. Good luck and keep us posted, remember we're here to help P.S. I have a 240Z 4 speed laying around (it needs to be rebuilt though)

wait... if I'm facing the front of the engine is the crank turning COUNTER clockwise or just Clockwise? I understand the timing marks now but which way s the crank turning?

Hey Z people! The Crank turns COUNTER CLOCKWISE right? and if thats the case then the timing marks on the crank pully from left to right would be 0,5,10,15,20. So... the timing pointer will hit the left hand mark first (0 degrees). Just to be clear the 0 degree would be in the 8 o-clock position, 5 degrees would be 9 o-clock, 10 would be 10 o-clock and so on and so on. so the pointer would hit the 8 o-clock(0 degree) timing mark first... NOT the 12 o-clock (20 degree) mark. and isn't 17 degrees of advance the recomeneded timing? Rock on Z people!:stupid:

thanks for the reply. Thats what I thought It just seemed like there wasn't any air going through the TB, but there must be some air getting through. Thanks again

Hey Z people I have a real amature throttle body question ... here it is... when the butterfly is closed it is suposed to be air tight? or is there suposed to be a small amout of air flow for idle? Thanks for your help guys! rock on z people :rockon:

Hey Z people, I just put in a new altinator and regulator (cause the last one wasn't working) on my 72 240 and it worked just fine for a few weeks.... but.... now it seems to not work when it gets cold (which is only at night cause I live in California :laugh: ) as soon as it heats up the altinator starts working again. I know it works because of the amp meter. When it works amp meter is in the + ... not working - I checked the main ground and it seems to be solid. Any suggestions? Thanks, Matt-

Im glad to hear that my post helped, but I'm more than willing to share the credit with "chopped liver" . I think you'll find that your L28 ROCKS! Rock on Z people Matt

Hey biker, you said that you replaced the throwout bearing ... but... did you just have a new bearing pressed on to the old collar or did you buy a new bearing-collar set? If you got a set they might have sold you the wrong one. I could be wrong on this but I remember someone telling me that the 5 speed collar is shorter than the 4 speed and if you use the wrong one you wont be able to put it in gear. but before you do that check the adjustment on your slave cylinder and make sure its set right(im sure you did that anyway) the only other thing that I can think of would be that the fork wasn't on right. Good luck man. Keep us posted Rock on Z people, Matt

Yes, I did replace my voltage regulator. I did make a bone head mistake though. I have an F54 set up and I thought I should get the 82 altinator.... wrong! :stupid: I soon learned that the 82 altinator has a built in regulator and because of that the car would not turn off. So I went back to the auto parts store and they were kind enough to swap out the altinators. Now I have a new altinator and a new regulator and vwaaaaa Laaaa my Z runs perfect. Thanks guys! I have to go smoke some SS's now :devious: Rock on Z People

Thanks for the advice guys. I took it to my local parts store and had them check the altinator and sure enough it was totally dead. I droped in a new one in about 20 minuets and everything is back to normal. Thanks for your help guys! As always this site rocks! Rock on Z people! Matt P.S. I smoked a guy off the line the other day. He was driving a 02 camaro SS I think I sacared him when burned out in second gear :devious: . Man I love my Z.

Whats going on? For about the last five days my amp meter has been reading in the +20 range and when I turn on my head lights it jumps to about +30. Does that mean that my battery is going dead because it can't hold a charge? then a little suprise my amp meter started jumping around and now it stays at about -15 with my head lights on and about -1 with my lights off. And when my lights are on they are not as bright as they were. Is it an altinator thing or a battery thing? I have a new (put in 2 years ago) voltage regulator I checked all of the connections the altinator is only 2 years old also Help! I suck at electrical stuff Matt-

thanks for the Info. ill only be running 8.07:1 CR ... stock comes with 7.45:1 (I think) is that is that much of an increase in CR really considered "high" compression for a turbo? How much RWHP can I expect with a 12 lbs of boost and that better ECU? and should I use the T-5 trany or should I stay with the 78 5 speed Thanks again

no pollution stuff ... Im a member of the scorched earth club.... JUST KIDDING TREE HUGGERS! Matt-