zeiss150

Does anyone have RWHP specs on my engine build up? A link would be good, or another site member... anything??? Phred? do you have any info? How about you bean dip? Rock on Z (and Zed) people! Matt-

Well the L28 On a 79 and up 280ZX had Net RWHP of 135 because of all of the smoge regulations in the US. The 78 and earlyer 280Z brough 149 RWHP (net). Here is a link http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/generations/articles/100641/article.html So the real plan should be to take All the smoge "crap" off an L-28 and spend some money on some modes and hold on for the ride. Rock on Z people! Matt-

Wow I started this post in December of last year! So here is an up date on my 72 L24... I't blew up! I had to do a total engine rebuild. When I had my E-88 head rebuilt the rebuilders messed it up and it "poped" a valve seat. If you didn't know that is really bad for an engine:stupid: So since I was doing a rebuilt, I figured, what the hell I'll go for it and I jumped up to and L28 N-42 combo with headers 2.5 inch exaust, dyno max muffler, SU carbs with SM needles, K&N air filter, Electronic dizzy, performance cam and valve train in my N42 head. Now I still haven't had it dyno'd but I can tell you that It feels way faster than my L24. Oh yeah I also bored over the engine .020, and had the entire rotating mass ballanced, right down to the clutch pressure plate. I figure that If a stock l28 was producing 142 at the rear wheels then I should be close to 175 HP at the RW. If I close my eyes click my heals together and hold my breath maybe I'll get 180 RWHP. Anyone think I'm smoking crack!!!????? If anyone has my set up and has had it dyno'd I would love to see the results. Thanks for the interest in the post guys! Rock on Z people! Matt-

the timeing is about 17 degrees addvanced. Is that to far? I don't think Im running to rich. The nozzels are about 11/2 turns down. Would an exaust leak at the Y pipe on my header cause that? Also it only does it very intermitently. Could a leek in the vacume addvance dashpot cause this. Matt-

Hey Z people, What could be causing my L28 w/ SU carbs to deisel after I shut it off. Is it a vacume leak? If so from where? Help! Matt-

hey trevor, I just built an L28 (F-54)with flat top pistons N-42 head with SU carbs and a mild cam and performance valve train. Its a blast. I've put about 800 miles on it and so far it ROCKS. I also use it as an everyday driver and at only 800 miles on the rebuild Im getting about 20 mpg's. I also have the 280z 5 speed in there. I think with a little more tuning and engine break in I should be able to get that MPG up a little. So in MHO my build is the best:D . Good luck with what ever you decide to do. Rock on Z people! Hey Gary.

Just to clairify.... I know that the L series heads are NOT cross flow. But thanks for answering my original question about weather or not a crossflow head exists for an L engine. It sounds like a great invention but $12,000 is, well quite silly. I could put in a twin turob 350 V8 for that much and produce a mind blowing 879 RWHP with a stagering amout of torque. There is a local guy here in Southern California that did that and I've seen his dyno. How does he get that much HP to the wheels you ask? 15 inch slicks that's how, It's a pretty bitch'n set up! I'm glad that my post created so many comments on RB's, thanks for the info guys. Rock on Z (and Zed) people! Matt- P.S. to bad the skyline's were so ugly. J.K. :-D!

Thanks for the info guys. I sort of figured it was an auzzy thing. To bad you guys never got the L28 turbo It's super cheep in the states. What does an RB cost in Auzzy? Is the Dohc head a cross flow? Do they make a DOHC head for the L28 block? Rock on Zed people!

Hey guys, I have a few questions? What car does the RB engine come out of? Is it an L series engine? Does it have a double over head came? If you're looking for big Horse power why not use L28 turbo out of the 83 280zx? the L28 turbo will produce 250 rwhp easy with out much modification, and you don't need to do any mods to get the engine and trany in. Is it a euro thing? Because I can pick up an L28 turbo at my local junk yard for $180.00 compleat! Add a T-5 borg warner trans for $150 and you have a smokin hot car. I've read threads on this site with L-28 turbos that are running almost 400 RWHP, but that has a lot of money put into the engine. So what is the deal with the RB engines? Just wondering? Matt- Rock on Z people.

Hey guys, can loose valves (or tight valves) cause a rough idle? What else can cause a rough idle. Thanks guys, Matt- Rock on Z people!!!

Hey Jay, If you changed your water pump and your thermostat and your still over heating like that you probably have a crapy radiator. You could try a nice radiator flush but 20+ years of old anti-freez can plug it up really good. Get a nice 3 or 4 row radiator on ebay for about $150 buck or so. I also wouldn't let my engine run at 250+ degrees, that sounds like a recipe for a seized engine. I replaced my radiator with a 3 row from ebay and it never gets above about 170 degrees. Rock on Z People Matt-

Hey Carl, That's the same picture in my book. Ill have to check the Printing #. It's no bother to me to help with this. I wont be able to get the scan for a few day's. Matt-

FYI guy's the "how to rebuild your datsun nissan OHC engine" book has the correct picture. That's how I knew what possistion to put it. It was off in the first place because it must have moved one tooth over when I put it in and I didnt double check it. Rock on Z people Matt-

Hey Carl, It's the picture on the right. Matt-

Hey guy's I just wanted to up date you on what's going on. I droped the oil pump and moved the dizzy shaft just one gear over and bam! I put the first hundred miles on it today. It's still ideling a little rough but I figure that its just a carb adjustment. Thanks for all your help guys. Matt-

Hey Z man I just wanted you to know that I feel your pain. I am going through the same exact thing with my L 28 right now. but my dizzy shaft is only about 40 degrees out:stupid: that damn thing is so tricky or I'm just realy lame. Once I fixed my timing VRRRRROOOOOOOOMMMMMMM!!!!!!!! Rock on Z brothers! Matt-

Hey Z (and Zed) people! I just Droped in a bitch'n L28, F54, 20 thou over bore, N42, Miled cam, new valve train, MSA headers 6-2-1, 2 1/2" exaust, with dynaflow muffler, electronic dizzy, and lets not forget about the awsome SU's! I rebuilt my SU's with SM needles and stock nozzels. I'v checked the float levels, and there good. My big question is, How should I set up my Carb? How many turns should I start with on the nozzels. Can I tune them just like I would if I were tuning them for my L24? I'm wondering if I can get any tips from any one that has My new set up? I don't want to run to "fat" or to "lean". OK Z people let me soak in your wizdom!!! If you need more info from me let me know. Rock on Z people! and I'll you you guy's at the MSA car show tommrow. Matt-

Hey Gary, I put a timing light on it today and The timing is Way off, it's retarded about 20 degrees. So I figure that the oil pump is not timed properly. So I'll drop the oil pump and turn the distributor shaft untill I get the timing right. I think that should fix the deiseling and the other problems. I must have goof'd it when I put it in ... ooooops! I'll keep every one posted Rock on Z people! Matt-

I've got problems! I just put my new F54 N42 engine in and I'm having a hell of a time. It seems to idel ok but when I give it a little gas it back fires through the carberator and dies. Then if I just let it idle and shut it off it with "deisle" for at least 20 or even 30 seconds then it spits out a blast of gasoline through the carbs. What the hell is going on? Is my timing off and would that make it "deisel". HELP! Matt-

that is your stearing rack and you can't take that apart with out a serious pain in the butt. I would consentrate on that Nut! What was wrong with the tie rod? Man, there's nothing worse than rusted nutsROFL . good luck, Matt- Rock on Z people!

try a pipe wrench and a cheeter bar (its a 4 or 5 ft. pipe that slips over the handle of the pipe wrench). If you get a nice 5ft pipe you should be able to break that nut loose no problem. Good luck, let me know if it works. Matt-

Hey gary, I'll be droping my engine in this week Ill let you know how it goes. Matt-

Looks like your going to miss school my friend. The tie-rod puller (a pickle fork) should look like a big 2 pronged fork. If you stick the pronges between the end of the tierod and the stearing knuckle then hit the pickle fork with a BIG hammer a few times and it should just pop off. don't be shy about hitting that thing as hard as possible you wont break it. Thoes tie rods ar on there really tight. Good luck, Matt-

Gary as alway bitch'n Info! Im just about to finnish my L28 build and I need to replace that "breaker Plate". It should be a great set up, I have an F54 block with .20 thou over N 42 head, headers 2 1/2 inch exaust, 274 dura, 640 lift cam, SU's with SM needels, and don't for get my electric dizzy. It should run like a junk yard dog. Matt-

I didnt think that electronic dizzys had breaker paltes? Matt-