zeiss150

1.chrome valve cover 2. billet aluminum timing chain cover plate 3. polish your intake manifold and if you have carbs polish those. 4. paint your engine block with high temp engine paint. 5. Jet hot coated or chromed header. If you do those your engine will sparkel like a shinny new diamond.

yep any ZX hinge will work. rock on z people.

Hey beandip, The Dizzy is of an 83 ZX. How much was the breaker plat? Matt-

Hey Z people, I think my Distributer Vacum advance ball bearing cage is busted. Does any one know if I can get a replacement part? I sucked on the Vacum advance hose and nothing moved in the distributer. I can also see a ball bearing sitting in the distributer. Matt-

Hey dude, they probably replace that balance tube because the 260 tube sucked. To much smog crap built into the tube, so I wouldn't loose any sleep with them putting it on. Those look like 8mm plug wires and I don't think they make them in black:mad: just blue and red. I think you will find that working on your Z is easer than you might think as long as to do your research. Rock on Z people Matt-

oh By the way any of you guys going to the April 25 MSA Z car show? Matt-

OOOOOOHHHH!!!! I've gotta get in on this argument! I did test drive a 350Z just a few weeks ago and let me tell you it was a good ride. It was the striped down model, a 287 RWHP with a bitch'n 274 ft lbs of torque on a 3,200 Lbs body with a 6 speed close ratio trany. It was a great drive! With that said, I curently have a 72 240 with a rebuilt 2.4 with header, electric dizzy, rebuild E88 head, and the SU carbs. The thing that amazed me was that my 1972 240Z "FELT" faster. Now im not saying that it was faster Im just saying that it felt much faster. I don't know if the low end torque on my 240 is better or what but in my mind I was expecting more from the 350Z ... and it wasn't there. If my 240 had 274 ft lbs of torque you would have to peal my arse out of the seat when ever I got out of the car. One thing that I noticed was the attempt of Nissan to copy the dash of the 240, 260, 280, Z. It was a good attempt, but fell a little short, IMO. If any of you have seen the book on the evolution of the 350Z you would know that Nissan actualy had an awsome 350 prototype that look remarkably like the 240. Unfortunaly they went with the curent incarnation. I think that the Prototype 350 was the perfect combination of what Nissan started in 1969 and developed in 2004. The one thing that I did love about the 350 was the interior color patteren. As a matter of fact I liked it so much I used it to do the interior of my 240. I think we can all agree that the 350 is no 240 but, the 240 wasn't perfect, if it was none of us would put L28 F54 flat top, N42 head, 274 dura. 460. lift cam, electronic dizzy, SM needels, MSA header breathing out of a 2 1/2 inch exaust with a dynomax muffler. If you know what all that car mumbo jumbo means you know what im talkin about. I LOVE cars almost as much as I love my Holly (my woman) and that makes me kind'a sick when it comes to cars. I belive that the only way that this argument will be solved is by the passage of time, about 30 years to be exact:devious: If the 350 has a Web site dedicated to it by then, we will all know it is a classic Rock on Z people (and Zed people too:D) Matt-

Hey Z people, I belive that the good people at Ztherapy refer to the flat tops as, and I quote "boat anchors"! They wont even take them as cores. If I was you I would deffinatly get a set of round tops, e-bay seem to be a great sorce for them. From what I understand about the 36 intake manifold flows better hard to find though. You might be able to get the same performance if you had some work done to the E88 to get it to flow better. Rock on Z people Matt-

Hey mark, Im glad to hear your going for it, we'll all be here to answer your questions when you get stuck. now about your breaks. 1. why do you want to take the rotor off the hub? you can get the rotors turned while there still on the hub. 2. consider a bitch'n brake up grade. I did it and it is super easy. check this out http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/toyotaCalipers.html My local napa auto parts store has rebuilt 1983 toyota calipers for $50 each including pads. so for about $100 you can stop on a dime:D 3. since you have taken off the rotor and hub combo now would be a good time to replace the oil seal and repack, or replace and repack the bearings. 4. Drain, flush and replace the break fluid. It's a pain in the but but its worth it. 5. If you have about $80 you can replace your rubber break lines with stainless steel for a little firmer break pressure. Good luck dude and keep us posted, Matt-

Hey Mark, Let me try to give you a little inspiration. A little less than 2 years ago I had never worked on an engine other than changing the oil in my car. I read a few books on rebuilding Z car engines and now im building my second one. If you are at all mechanically inclined you can rebuild the engine. As far was working on the SU's Z tharapy has a DVD called "Just SU's", it will walk you through a total rebuild and carb tuning. They also sell a tune up video that is great if you want to learn how to adjust the valves. The videos are about $20 each, well worth it. Think about it this way... if you mess it up you would wind up paying someone to fix it but you would have had to pay that in the first place if you didn't try to fix it. If I can do it anyone can do it. Good luck and have fun. Matt- Rock on Z People

If I were you I would just send my time and money working on the carbs that you have now. Is sounds like they are running to rich. there is a screw on the bottom of each carb turn both of the screws "UP" equally untill the black smoke stops. If you turn them all the way up and it still is smoking black then you might need to replace the "nozzels" and "needles". It caust $60 from Ztherapy. If you car is a 71 it will have an E88 head and that head has brass valve seats. They are probably not makeing a good seal anymore. you should pull the head and get the vavle seats replaced with new steel seats and have your valves reground. And if you do that make sure you replace the valve stem seals. If you do all of that and you still have smoke then you will have to do a ring job. But while you have the head off you might as well do a lower end rebuild. I bet if you just spend some time on the carbs and adjust the valves you'll find that the car runs pretty damn good with out rebuilding anything. Good luck and keep us posted. Matt-

P79 heads are a dime a dozen at the wrecking yard, Maybe that's why you can't move yours. as far as the parts being interchangeable I belive that the P79 valves are .80 thou shorter than the other heads and the valve diameter is bigger than the E88 and e31 heads. Now if you had a P90 that had been shaved and with a sporty cam you could probably sell that. How much is aluminum getting per pound these days? Sorry dude. just teasing ya Rock on Z people Matt-

dido with my header:ermm: Although I do have a 6 into 2 but still. I'd call Motorsport you shouldnt have to grind on your NEW $300 header. Good luck Matt-

Just a bit of info that I had to figure out on my own. I had to adjust my door and what I found to work best was to loosen the door striker so it will move, but only if you push on it really hard ... like shutting the door on it. Then I open the door and tightend the striker plate bolts down and poof the door closes great. An other interesting tid bit of info... If you put new door weather striping on the door wont close with out a pretty BIG slam. It takes about 5 months to get the rubber to "relax" enough to close easy. I guess it s a good thing cause that means it will last a good long time. Good luck dude. Rock on Z people Matt- P.S. great post EScanlon

thanks Frank, but im good with the one that I have. I have to go take some pictures today. Rock on z people! Matt-

17... 3 Z's ... you bastard:sick: Yep no CC required to bid on Ebay you just have to make sure when you bid that they take money orders. Good times Z brother Matt-

Hey Mellow you dont need a CC for Ebay. Just do it money order style. It takes a little longer but its worth it. Damn I wish I had a Z at 17. The women would be mine! Rock on, my brother! Matt-

Damn I love Pie! When I don't get enough I deffinatly get STRESSED!

the 78 Head is an N47. It would make a great head for your stroker motor. Motor sport sells a "stroker kit" for only $1799 (US) for that low low price you get the pistons, rings, rods and crank... yep thats it. you still have to find an F54 block. Then the Machine shop that you pick must be the absolute best. with that big of a bore job the machine shop must have a torque plate for the F54 block and very few do. Engine balancing is a huge deal. The good news is that you can find an F54 block in any wreaking yard, for about $80. The other parts you will need is a deisel crank from a 1981 - 83 nissan maxima "deisel", now that is harder to find and it only cost $350. Don't forget about the 1973 240Z conecting rods with 9mm bolts thoes are only about $150 used. Then you will need pistons wich should only set you back about $35 each. It's much cheeper than buying the MSA stroker kit. But you have to find all the stuff ... so do you have more time or more money? Make sure that you check out thoes sites that I left in my last post on this thread, and check this site for more stroker info. Long live the power of the 3.1!! Matt-

Big bore 3.1 ... that's one of my dream engines! That's not an easy engine to build from what i've found. If you want to build a 3.1 stroker, you need a "perfect" F54 block and it has to be sonic tested to make sure that the cylinder walls are thick enough for the .120 thousands of a inch over bore. the engine must be ballanced by the best ballancer you can find, not the cheepest, the best! Oh yeah it should only set you back about $3000+ (US). But for 274 Ft lbs of torque at 2000 - 6000 rpms ... oooooohhh yeah!!!! hear are a cupel of sites that i've found. Have fun, Matt- http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm http://www.zhome.com/rnt/L28conversion/3031FAQ.html

the pistons look like they have been "flycut" . Does anyone know if they Fylcut 70 and 71 240's. It would make sence with the E31 head being only 42cc . I just thought that the E31 was still had enough valve clearence. Maybe not:ermm: Sorry I dont have any Idea about the piston edge being clean. If Flycut pistons arn't "standard" then I would wonder who and why they did that to the pistons? Did they shave the head? Or do you really have a loose timming chain? If that were the case I would expect to find vavle damage. more questions than answers. Sorry for messing up your post! Keep us posted, Matt-

There are 3 exaust mounts. They look like 1 inch thick and 3 or 4 inch long pieces of leather (there not leather they just look sort of like leather). You should be able to get them at a good auto parts store. Actually they may still be there under your car. they are held on by bolts and over 30 years the bolts can rust off or tear off. Its easy to fix, you just need some jack stands and some dirty cloths. Enjoy, Matt-

Ed's right, Im rebuilding an L28 right now. this is my second Z engine rebuild (going bigger.) Get a hayns manual and "how to rebuild your nissan OHC engine. Its a great book it will take you step by step through a rebuild. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1931128030/qid=1081050271/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3/104-6168570-9529502?v=glance&s=books The most important thing is to do your research. Read, read, then for fun, do a little more reading. Also no your limits. If you don't think you can't handle it let the pros do it. I had my engine block hot tanked, bored, and honed, with freez plugs for $120 (US). An other thing to do for a quality engine is to have the entire rotating mass balanced. the rods, pistons, crank, pully, flywheel, clutch pressure plate, timing gear, oil pump gear, and even piston rings. It will give you a smooth engine right past 6000 RPMs. If you put enought time into it you can do it. Just 2 years ago I had never even worked on a lawnmower engine. Now I feel like I could rebuild just about anything. Good luck, Matt

Hey Mellow, One word... Ebay! I bought almost all of my 240 interier on ebay and I just restore it when I get it. They make special plastic paint (dye) that you can get at your local auto store. You would be suprised at how great old plastic look with a new paint job. The paint (dye) never falkes or peals or gets sticky. It bonds to the original plactic, it works awsome. Good luck. P.S. are you still gonna bore that engine? if so how much?

sounds like a solenoid problem. I would just replace the start all together it is only $40 at the local parts store. I would look to the solenoid/starter problem. if that doesn't work, I don't know? Good luck Matt-