zeiss150

Thanks lance, I think you were reading my mind, that was my next question, how much horse power would I gain from the extra CR. Thanks to every one that replied, Im going with the 9.2:1, ill let you guys are know if my set up works bitch'n or sucks. Matt-

Thanks 2manyz's Do you think that i would get a smooth every day driver with the lower compression? I just want an every day driver that pull like a bat out'a hell. YOu wouldn't by chance happen to know what kind of torque and HP i can expect with my setup? Thanks again 2manyz's Matt- P.S. how do I put a picture on here?

Damn, I feel neglected:( Can anyone help me with this one? Please? ... Please? Matt-

Hey mellow, A 270 duration with a 460 lift is a really good, mild cam for street driving it pulls hard from 2000 - 6000 RPM. If you do put in a new cam you have to change out your springs, rocker arms, and lash pads. A new cam set up is about $500 american. I don't know if you need to change your ECU. I checked the motor sport catalog and they don't sell a performance ECU for 80-83 ZX's. The only way I would Bore out the motor is if you were going to rebuild the engine, new rings, bearings, pistons,the works (Im going through that right now). Another thing you can do is up grade your ignition. Bigger better spark = more HP. The header is a must, along with a 2 1/2 inch exaust system, with a nice dynomax high flow muffler. If that set up doesn't make your head snap back, you need a turbo motor. Good luck my Auzzy friend Matt-

Hey guy's Im about ready to put together my F54 N42 combo and im worried about the CR. I have a 20 thou over bore and with the standard head gasket I get 9.92:1 but with the 2mm HKS head gasket I get a CR of 9.2:1. So my question is this... Which one is better for a daily driver? Ill be using SU's with sm needles a stock cam and header with 2 1/2inch pluming and an electric dizzy I really need some advice on this one guys, I don't want to do it twice:ermm: Matt-

I would change your head from a P-79 to an N-42 It will boost your compression to about 9.8:1 then throw on a header, and a mild cam, and make sure you have a 3.90 rear end, put it all in a 240z body (just kidding) and you should have a pretty quick little car. I don't know if you have junk yards where you live, but here (in sunny southern california) an N-42 head is about $75. a new header is about $160. and the cam is about $160. but you will need new rocker arms so the cam job will cost you about $400. Basically it ain't cheep. Have fun, Matt

thanks guys that's the info i was looking for. Bruce, shouldn't your RWHP be a lot more than 114? With 212 ft lbs of torque I would think you would have somewhere around 180 RWHP:ermm: Right on dude's P.S. Bruce, do you have a dyno sheet I can take a look at?

come on guys:ermm: no one has an idea on this one?

Hey Z people, Can anyone out there tell me how much torque I can expect to get from this set up... N42 head F54 flat top pistons HKS 2mm head gasket Header 6-2 with a 21/2 inch exaust SU carbs with SM needles Electronic dizzy I should be running about a 9.1 :1 compression ratio Im not looking for exact numbers here im just interested in a ball park torque number. If anyone has ever dynoed a setup like this, that would be awsome. Thanks, Matt

You should check the gage first before you go trying to replace the oil pump. I think there is a way to test the gage by grounding the circuit ... but I suck at electrical stuff. It is most likely the oil pressure sending unit. It's the little senser just infront of the oil filter. In order to change the oil pump you have to remove the front sway bar to get to the oil pump (its a pain in the but) Or you can unbolt the engine mounts and jack up the engine a few inches to clear the sway bar. be carefull with that one it could turn bad really quick:eek: if the jack slips! keep us posted

The oil pump is mechanical its driven by a worm gear on the front of the drive shaft behinde the front cover. in order to test it just take off your vavle cover and start your engine.... .... DON'T TO THAT... unless you want to paint your garage with oil. If you start your car and check your oil pressure gage in the car you should have oil pressure at idle just about 0, if you rev it to 2500 rpms it should go up to about 60psi. If your gage shows nothing then you might have a bad oil pump or, a oil pressure sending unit, or something in your gage. I think you can attach a oil pressure gage to your engine block right in front of the oil filter where the oil pressure sending unit is. If you can't figure it out maybe take it down to the local radiator palce and pay them to check if you have blown a head gasket (my radiator palce does this). Matt-

did you drain the oil out of the engine to make sure that the water hasn't settelled to the bottom of the oil pan? Maybe you did doge the bullet:ermm: is your radiator good? Bad oil pump? bad water pump? Good luck, Matt-

hey frank, If im gonna spend $6900 its gonna be on my ZZZZZZZZ Matt

I would check the oil when its cold. If you warm it up you will mix up the oil and coolent and it will make your oil a light brown color (if there is a lot of coolent in there) when you drain the oil out of enigne you should look for water as soon as the drain plug comes out. As far as chainging the head gasket you should be able to do in in an afternoon. I would think it would be much easer than a V6. The one thing you must make sure of is that you DO NOT DROP THE TIMING CHAIN !!!! If you drop it you just added another afternoon to the job. If your going to do it yourself you should get this book ... "how to rebuild your nissan datsun OHC engine" by Tom monroe. Its a great book It will take you through the top end rebuild step by step. good luck Matt-

you have a blown head gasket my friend. Sorry for the bad news. The "bubbles" are actualy Water, if you look really close at them they should be green, like your anifreez. A blown head gasket will make you over heat for sure. As far as checking for it make sure that it is water in the oil. Drain your oil in to a pan the water will settel to the bottom and the oil will float to the top. another way is to check the water in your radiator. Open the cap and look for oil floating at the top of the coolent. you can also to a compression test. if two cylinders next to eachother have low compression compaired to the rest of the cylinders then you have a head gasket leak between thoes two cylinders. Good luck, Matt-

ummmm ... it balances harmonics:stupid: other than driving the altinator I don't really know what it does. I am having in the rotating mass rebalanced, so i think ill use the 240 pully bitch'n, Matt-

come on guys no one know the answer to this question?

all of the women in my family have had breast canser... they'er all fully recovered. My thoughts are with you and your daughter. Matt-

Hey guys, can I put the harmonic balancer from an L24 onto an L28? thats it... Matt-

The grear sleevs are different because the gears have different amout of teeth. The more teeth the gear has the bigger the gear, and a less amount of teeth has a smaller gear. So with a bigger gear you need an offset so it will mesh with the trans. with a smaller gear you need the opisit offset so it will mesh with the trans. The gears are deffinatly color coded. it works like this yellow =16 tooth black =17 tooth blue =18 tooth white = 19 tooth red = 20 tooth purple = 21 tooth you can't get a red spedo gear with 16 teeth... it would have 20. once again the trans doesn't matter its the differential that determins the speedo gear you need. Belive me I know, I had to figure this crap out on my own :mad: I curently own the yellow, black, blue, and red speedo gears:stupid: By the way if your ever thinking about picking up a used diff from the junk yard you can just pull the speedo gear out and check the color to see what gear ratio the diff has. Hope this helped Matt-

Hey datto, Good to know! the trans doesn't really make a differance. It's the differential that determines the speedo gear. Matt-

Well I looked into it a little bit and from what I can guess If you have a 70 240 and its a 4 speed you should have a 3.54:1 R180 rear end. The speedo gears are color coded.... Yellow = 3.36:1 Black = 3.54:1 Blue = 3.70:1 white = 3.90:1 red = 4.11:1 purple = 4.38:1 so the long and short of it is that you need a Yellow speedo gear ... unless you have an automatic transmition then you would need a black gear. Suposedly if you have an auto tran in 70 it came with a 3.54 instead of the 3.36 with the 4 speed. I didn't think they made an auto trans for the 70 240 ... but what do I know :stupid: matt-

OOOOPPPSSS! Sorry guys I though he had a 280z. If he has round tops could it be that the damper oil is low or empty? Maybe a vacume leek? It also sounds like you would benifit from a "full" tunup. Good luck, Matt

Hey, it sounds like a fuel injector problem. The extra power is probably from the new plugs wires cap and roter. the wild idle is something going on with the FI. Im not much help with FI, if you through some SU carberators on there Im your man. good luck and keep us posted. Matt-

Hey z people, Does anyone know where I can buy an HKS steel 2mm head gasket for around $150? Thanks, matt-