tfbrown

here goes again..... I assume I just hit the attach file key and browse to the jpg file on my hard drive.....I have not done this before so I'm going in blind.

Hi........... I was wondering if there were any members in/around Winnipeg. Manitoba (Canada) that might like to get together for a coffee and mutual aid group...I have a 73 240Z, L-24 is coming out and an L-28 is going in....., I need some body work advice, even just to see a decent car so I know what some parts are supposed to look like..... so if you are in or near could you drop me a line. Thanks Tim Brown tfbrown1270@home.com Charleswood

Hi........ I need a quick answer if possible... I have deceided to take my L24 out and replace it with an 81 L28E that is at the wreckers... I hear the L28 is the way to go so I would like to go that way......but I have never heard of the L28E model.......is this the correct engine for my Z or should I forget it. TIA Tim tfbrown1270@hotmail.com

I know I should have done this along time ago...but I did a compression test both dry and wet... # Dry Wet 1 102 123 2 101 118 3 120 135 4 118 132 5 113 121 6 107 116 given the results its clear the rings are gone and I need a rebuilt engine......any ideas or recently rebuilt engines for sale out there....Im in Canada just north of North Dakota.. Thanks for you patience Tim

First of all I'm not sure this is the right forum for this, but I'll give it a try....I have been getting the DIGEST version of the daily Z chat and enjoying it a lot...I tried a few posts at the bulletine board but find that it takes forever to get a reply.... I have a 73Z with an L24, all stock except for the 72 round tops, I bought it last summer and have bills to show the engine was REBUILT about 10 years and 10000 miles ago, bills say it was OVERSIZED, doesn't specify whether this refers to bearings or cylinder bored out a few thou though. Anyway it runs like a PoS, lumpy idle and lumpy non linear response to throttle (feels like 1 or 2 aren't firing, though I know they are). I have rebuilt the carbs (with ZTHERAPY'S help), put in a new cap/rotor/points (20 thou), set the timing, new plugs/wires etc....when I set the valve lash I found all exhaust valves set to 10 thou (cold) and all intakes at 00 thou (cold(yup...no lash)), I don't know what the previous owner was thinking but...... I was wondering if this is the cause of my rough running. Noteworthy is the fact that #3 and #4 spark plugs are oily, not fouled but definately too wayyyyy too oily. I took an old spark plug, knocked out the center and added an air nipple to check for leaks past the rings or valves, THE PROBLEM; when I pressurize the cylinder with 100 psi I find it nearly impossible to hold the cam (whole engine really) in place at/near TDC for the cylinder I'm checking as it wants to drive it downwards. ALSO with the help of a extension bar on my 1/2" socket I am able to hold against the pressure (19mm socket on cam nut at front of engine) but can HEAR AIR RUSHING OUT OF THE CYLINDER. I don't know where its going but I can hear it (a steady medium hissssssssss).......WHAT NOW....HELP PLEASE. TIA Tim

I bought the video from Scott at Ztherapy last year, I too have a 73Z with 72 carbs (and manifold).......the video answered a lot of questions about the Su's and tune-ups.. It seems clear to me that $400 for a mech to rebuild yours to questionable shape vs $550ish to Ztherapy is a no brainer..... I think Scott even gives u a discount for the old carbs, check his web site at www.ztherapy.com I will be buying his rebuilt carbs in the near future (as soon as possible). fwiw Tim

I should have kept my hands in my pockets.......I stuck my hand up under the front fender near where the top shock mount is and found the inner fender has turned to dust,,,,I could pull handfulls of rotten metal out.............aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaghh! the rest of the car appears in pretty decent shape (considering its age --73)...except for the frame rails inside the front fenders.......... is there a replacement for the inner fenders and can I weld a repair on the frame rails........ any other ideas?.....I like the car...this is just an ugly surprise. Tim Brown

My 73 240Z has a pronounced rumble from somewhere aft of the transmission...all 6 u-joints are tight, the tires are balanced and the exhaust is not touching the frame. The amplitude increases as roadspeed increases, the frequecy does too but not very much. I put the car on jacks and ran it in 4th to about 80 mph and the rumble gets quite annoying..... (my best quess is that something somewhere is a little loose allowing just a few thou movement) any ideas where this is coming from..I haven't looked at the rear bearings yet??...also after my run on the jacks stands I noticed a puddle of gear oil under the transmission but couldn't see how it got out...it was about a cup full. Thanks in advance

......perfect fit turns out to be the muffler from a 83-85 Nissan Stanza... 12 1/2 long cylinder thats 6 inches in diameter with 1 3/4 inlet/outlet, thats a Walker muffler part #22252 (superscript 5) at the end of that number !? and the best part it cost $39.95 Canadian (thats about $1.50 US) at the local muffler shop. -for your information and consideration-

I have a 73 with 72 carbs...it has been an adventure getting it running, though it isn't running very well...my current project involves putting a muffler on the beast...I visited my local Nissan dealer and nearly died when told he wanted $170 + tax for the Nissan muffler to fit...................I declined........I have been hauling the decrepid old muffler in and out of the local Minute Muffler, Midas Muffler and everything else that sells mufflers hoping to find one that is approaximately the same size (that a cylinder about 13 1/2 inches long, 6 1/2 inches in diameter with a 1 3/4 inlet and outlet)...it goes w/o saying that NO ONE has a muffler to fit...the closest I've found is this tiny little thing with a 1 1/2 inlet from a Ford Festiva...I won't put that on as I'm sure it would choke the system....does anyone have an inexpensive solution for me......perhaps a part number from Sears, Midas...etc etc.....I'm in Canada but can travel to Grand Forks ND (or further) to get parts in the US of A. Thanks in advance. ------------------

at the risk of being a pest......I have succesfully installed a pair of 72 carbs, linkage, grose jets etc...even went out and bought a Unisyn (found that the car industy types no longer seem to know what a carburator (What it's not fuel injection? in the pursuit of the Unisyn; I was saved though when someone suggested I check out the motorcycle and snowmobile shops as they still work on vehs with multiple carbs...bingo $48.00 CDN later I had an Edlebrock Unisyn and it works great)... now onto the latest problem; the car runs OK...still doesn't idle too well . It has differant needles front and rear carbs ??, I have spares from the orig carbs, should I swith to the old needles? ALSO..I set the needles by turning the jets all the way lean, loosely placing the needles in the dashpot and inserting same into the jet to allow the jet to set the needle...this has the needles about 1mm lower (leaner) than before (when needles were set using a straight edge along the bottom of the dashpot)......but after then backing the adjusting wheel out 2 1/2 turns (rich) I find I can't get the damn thing to die as I then progressively turn the wheel in again (lean).... I know I am long winded, forgive me; anyway if I can't get the thing to stumble on the lean side how can I know when my mixture is right....am I way to rich ($$$$$ I wish!).... PS; I have read nearly every SU tune-up post on the net.... all refer to screwing the jet in till it stumbles.....I can't seem to do that! Thanks Tim Brown ------------------

I have the same car (73) with the same carbs (72) and a similar problem.....NO amount of leaning the mixture by screwing the choke tube/needle valve seat assembly in (up) seems to be able to get it lean enuf...what are we doing wrong? In my case adjusting the mixture makes no differance from 5 turns out to all the way in???????? Tim Brown ------------------

I fixed the problem.......I got another set of carbs from a 72 and am installing them now......old carbs are now spare parts..... please see related post about grose jets in the carbs forum though as nothing is as easy as it is... Tim Brown

Hi.I just had a pair of grose jets delivered to my door from Victoria British...I am putting them in my 73 Z with 72 carbs....problem is there are NO instrucrtions...one is marked long, the other short...I can't see or measure a differance (with micrometer)...I have Scott's video and it only makes passing referance to it....help..... I put the short in the rear carb, the one with the shorter tang on the float bowl cover...I used the supplied various fiber washers to set the grose jet as close to the original height below the cover as the original and then bent the float tang to get 00.55 inches to fuel shut off......... its still weeks before the carbs go back on the car...did I do it right or should I tear ity all apart to do it differantly??? RSVP.. Thanks in advance Tim Brown Winnipeg (the great frozen North) Canada ------------------

Hi...... I have just purchased a 73 240Z with 72 carbs..... like most 27 year old cars it needs some time and money (my wife says it'll be worth $10,000 after I spend $20,000..yuk)...anyway someone broke the face of front carb at the right attach bolt...the broken piece (about 2 inces high and 1.5 inches wide). This is part of the cast carb front (air inlet) and thankfully doesn't extend down as far as the needle seat... I have the broken piece, it fits quite nicely in the casting, the last owner (he was the 2nd owner) apparently tried to epoxy it in place, that clearly didn't work...whenI removed the K&N filter on the front carb it was hanging on the right side attach bolt.....dooooh! My question after all that was.... can I heliarc this peice back in place without damaging the carb or do I need a new front carb?$$$$$$$$?......any assistance would be appreciated.. BTW...I am looking for an original filter cover (the removeable part)...the car came with the backing plate and a new filter but no removeable face plate). Tim Brown ------------------