optimaxtech

Thanks for the info guys-really appreciate it!

So was the ballest resistor just left there to connect the 2 wires together?

Do you happen to know what wire connects where? I'm a little confused. They both would not be on the same post at the coil would they?

Would anyone know? we have a 260 with an engine (L28) from a ZX, with carbed head installed. The distributor has electronic spark instead of points. Where should the tach signal come from? I believe currently it is still connected to the negative post on the coil, yet the tach does not function. I personally have not been to the car yet to assist my friend. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Looking for clean 77-78 hood. Colorado area would be great, but shipping OK if crated correctly

When I spoke about the "tips" on the lobe, The correct name is the Apex seals. If you happen to replace that motor with a used, I recommend you change the rear main crank seal. They have a history of leaking.

The RX7 has a rotary engine. Take a compression check. If the compression is low (under 150psi) the engine internally is worn. The motor does not half a conventional valve train, instead it works with a lobe system with a ceramic lined crankcase. The lobes do have replaceable "tips" which is a rubber type material, yet even replacing these, does not, bring back all the compression due to the worn ceramic. The gen 1 cars were actually first sold to the original owner with a certificate that when taken to the dealer they would install a new engine at like 60k miles. The quality of the gen 2 rotary was much better and some have been known to run well above 150k without a problem, yet they are FI, not carbed. My personal opinion is the carbed engines created too much carbon in the engine and would wear the ceramic and the lobe tips out. I know you can find a bunch of info on the web for these motors, yet I do not know about the availibity of relined/rebuilt engines. When they loose compression they will run like crap. The advantage being they are small and light, it does not take much effort to remove and replace an engine in the gen 1 cars.

Victor Glad to hear the pride and joy is back home!:classic: As for the responsible party, any info from the police? I'm sure a few members would not hesitate to help with a classic "encounter with the bad guy"

The blue with pearl stripes would look great:classic: Yet, If I close my eyes.... The silver that this thread was started about, could have some very interesting possibilities, with the right rims, a little chrome, gloss black accents.....

In regards to the wrong arse, his concept was to have a piece of plate steel that would slide over the needle area built into the device and it would be a fingertip slide from under the seat... or something along that line:classic:

SAY MY NAME B@TCH!!!!

On a twisted note, a friend of mine aquired a Lotus a few years ago, and he was bound and determined to come up with a system that would inject poison/chemical into the thief's arse when he sat in the seat. His brother is a lawyer and talked him out of it for the time being!:classic:

If lojack is a passive system base on radio frequency, then it would be my choice. My only concern is systems sold to the masses, usually have some hidden original intent, before they were marketed on a retail basis. USA is a free country, and in todays age, the cable company can control your TV from their location.... Scary thought man. It will be interesting to say the least, what technology is going to end up for use in home and car in the next couple of years. Any time someone can control something by remote, means in the wrong hands it could be a negative thing

Lo Jack is a good concept, yet as technology evolves, so do our wonderful crimanals. If the thieves are succesful at what they do, they more than likely have a "dummie stop" were the vehicle goes within the first minutes of theft, at which time they can scan the car for the device with a tool fireman use to see through your walls for bad wiring, hence the device is removed and pitched in the local dump or river. Then the vehicle is transported to the real chop shop. One other concept that makes me leary, is "big brother" knows were you/car are located. Of course, most of us have nothing to hide, yet all "lojack" and "on star" systems have to be licsenced through the government. "On Star" has the ability to shut your engine off, which in the wrong hands could leave a lot of people stranded some day.:sleepy:

Carl, In regards to your comfort level with this type of circuit, you can purchase the parts and assemble on the workbench with clip leads, and leave an ohm meter hooked up to the 2 wire connection that would be the "break" in your cars wiring. Leave the system hooked up with 12volt plug in wall convertor, and over the course of a couple weeks when ever you walk by with your "hidden magnet device", simply swipe the sensor, and take a look at you ohm meter to verify operation. The wiring diagram does not include the actual number location for the relay post(in regards to wiring), but if the parts are placed on the table in front of you, you will notice the pattern of the connection post will match the diagram. Most relays are a standard pattern(the ones used for this circuit will be) and there is normally a little wiring diagram on or in the package of the relay to help you better under stand what the little box is doing. As a matter of fact, I'm going to build one for the hell of it, and some day when I own a toy again I will install it. If you like I could keep you up to date when I get around to purchasing the parts.:classic: