1971rb26dett

I agree with pretty much every one here on the opinoin to keep it L series. I wanted to go with an RB setup too. But money troubles have killed any hopes of that . Maybe in the future. A rebuilt L-28 is a stout motor and will satisfy you. BTW a 396 Chevy motor is a big block and would not fit without extensive fabrication.

Oil smoke is whitish blue. Most people just say it's white. But the real key here is that it doesn't smoke after driving for a while. Therefore I concur with the previous diagnosis by Ed. The stem seals, NOT the guides as your redneck buddy will tell you.

Hijack away. I am always happy to find a fellow Xtina admirer

. Smart@$$. Yeah I was quite relieved. I was thinking it was something more serious. The only reason it's a bother is that I will have to wait till Monday or Teusday before I get a chance to get it and I was hoping to drive the Z on Sunday.

I noticed the other day that there was some water dripping from my water pump. It looked like it was from the gasket but just to be safe I wanted to check to make sure that it was pumping water. So I used the old 'squeeze' test on the upper rad hose. Something caught my attention behind me and I whipped around and my hand smacked the distributor cap off. I looked at everything and all seemed to be in order so I put it back on but the car wouldn't start yet I was getting spark. I got frustrated and left it. I was about to post to ask for help when I decided to check it again. I pulled off the rotor and noticed that the base was cracked. It must have smacked the inside of the cap and twisted and snapped. That of course would have thrown of my timing. So now I gotta go buy a new rotor.

Well in my case I disconnected the return and blew air into the line until it built up sufficent pressure to force the fuel into the pump. I tried not to get any fuel in my mouth but that didnt work too well. Yes, before you ask, I am quite insane. And proud of it. It's not the fumes that kill you. Oh... wait a minute..... it is. Seriously though, make sure the main fuel line and return are not kinked. There is a vent hose as well that you should check.

I had a similar problem. In my case the pump simply wasnt primed properly.

It seems almost like a dishonor to put an SR20 in a Z. Don't get me wrong the SR is a beautiful engine. But IMO it simply does not have the sound I would normally associate with a Z. Gimme a 6 or an 8 NA or FI any day over a 4.

Is it #1 and #3 or #1 and #6?? If it's 1 and 3 I would guess a combination of lean front carb, too much advance and perhaps some cooling issues. If it's 1 and 6 other than severe cooling issues I dunno

Generally you would only change the gap if you increased the compresson, ran alternative fuels or ran forced induction. It's hard to tell what you mean by 'high end power' is it a track car 6k - 10k or just a weekend warrior. Most often you will find that if your mods make it necessary to change gap then you probably need an upgraded ignition system.

I will be needing to repaint my Z soon too. A gallon of paint is gonna be muy expensivo! Is that single stage or total for multistage?

I believe the problem with datsun 89mm pistons is the wrist pin height. There would be too much positive deck clearance. I have never done the mock up or the math but this is what I've read. If you are gonna get custom pistons then you would have to do the math. Or someone less lazy than me could do it for you. The KA24 pistons are supposed to be the pistons of choice. Courtesy Nissan sells the stroker kit for $1300 (thats a steal) and MSA for $1700. If I had the money free and clear I would get that setup tomorrow. MSA sells oversize gaskets in custom thickness. Datrats also sells custom gaskets and they are in Australia.

Yeah what Mike was saying.... The spark plugs will tell you exactly what is going on. I am having some problems with oil fouling lately. Symptoms are pretty much like yours. I haven't had the time to do a full checkup on her yet.

I am glad I came across this thread. I was planning on blocking those off too. I would have wasted a crapload of time going to hardware stores and probably would have gone the JB Weld route out of frustration.

Definitely not changing the rods alone. But changing the crank for a longer/shorter stroke will certainly necessitate changing the rods.