1971rb26dett

Yes that is exactly right. The engine is not breathing enough for those needles at high rpm 11:1 a/f is very rich. Of course, torque and hp will always cross at 5252 rpm, so the fact that the hp starts dropping off at that point indicates not enough cam. So yes you have come to the right conclusion. Bigger valves and higher lift cam would turn your Datsun into a monster. I would be happy with the car as is though. Just from the chart I can tell that it launches really easily and is a pleasure to drive even if it lacks a bit on the top end.

Any oversized valves perhaps??

my first guess would be the same. Too rich or weak spark. There are many other problems that could cause this but most others would be mechanical problems that you could hear. Also, you will never be able to keep the webers properly tuned. I bought my car with webers an quickly took them off because the backfires started pissing me off right away. The webers will make a puddle of gas in the bottom of their manifolds when you idle after driving. That puddle can do a lot more damage than just fouling your plugs

Dude, I been there. My best friend hooked up with my ex. However, this was after I was over her. That didn't take too long cause she was evil. I was pissed at her because I knew she would only hurt him. So I arranged to get together. Well one thing led to another and you can figure out what happened. The good part is that I pretended like it never happened. I did not call and brushed it off as nothing if she hinted at it. My only regret is not leaving $2 on her dresser to show what I thought of her. I only thought of that after I left. So if you do decide to get a revenge fling just remember to leave some money. Bring a sack of coins. That would be hilarious

If you are suffering from fuel starvation, yes. Otherwise no. If you have not modified the engine to the point where it needs an upgraded fuel delivery system then bigger injectors will do nothing. And yes you will need to update the engine control module/unit. However, adding an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator will help smooth performance out a little and it will feel like you have more power on tap.

alternatively you could go down to your local auto body and paint supplier and look at their books. They will flip if you ask for an obscure color by name though. Hanes published a very good body and paint manual. I have it laying around here somewhere. If you live in the US there is probably a vo-tech center nearby that teaches autobody. There are two important skills you will need before you become an auto painter. First, you must be an alcoholic. Second, you must be able to maintain a steady hand while drunk. Master these two skills and nothing will hold you back please disregard the paragraph above.

I am happy for you. I thought about an RB swap too, as the name suggests. I was all set to get it too before I suffered a major financial reversal. Now I am thinking about an L31et. Yes, I know it will cost as much as the rb26 but it's a way cooler project and I dont have to come up with all the money at once. Or at least that's what I keep repeating to myself over and over and over....

yeah what he said. I type slowly late at night

Yeah they are hard to come by these days. I've been to the junkyards a few times this month and all I see is non-turbo 280zx's. A full service salvage yard should have one tho. Expect to pay more however. Otherwise you can cobble together the parts and add them on to your current motor. The only problem there is the fuel management system. That can get pricey. ebaymotors.com be a fanatic

Yes you are right. I was very unclear. I was responding to the question and yes it does indicate the condition of the opposite carb. when you lean out the one carb it serves as your control (albeit not a very good one) to test the other carb. Unless one is running very rich. I assume that they are pretty close based on statements about the synch tool. I also assume that idle rpm is being matched to spec. I plan to install 2 O2 sensors and a A/F ratio gauge in my car, hopefully I will have some spare time (and money) soon. . I am not a big fan of that test. My throttle shafts are leaking anyway so the carbs are already artifically lean. My friends dad is an old time MG racer and he showed me that test. I had already balanced them with the Unisyn and they 'passed' the test. With mine I warm up the engine and lean out the carbs to the point where they will need to be choked to restart. Then I richen half turn and verify synch. If the pistons are moving the same and the float level is the same then I really fail to see where this test is beneficial if you have a synch tool.

The opposite carb. When you raise the piston in one carb the engine is only running on the other one. Obviously you want them to run the same. I adusted mine during warmup and then again after the engine warmed up I shut the motor off for 10 minutes and restarted. I had to richen slightly but I know I have it right where I want it.

Yeah hybridz would be the best place for V8 swap info. but.. 1. Depends on the state you live in. I am in Florida. No worries for me. But I have heard that in some states it's difficult to register a car with an engine that was never offered in that model 2. yes all that plus frame braces. you will probably want to have the ecu reprogrammed for the z 3. Most people seem to agree that the r180 can handle up to about 300 lb/ft of torque. More than that and the R200 would be better 4. Will not bolt directly but you can monkey up an adapter for sure. otherwise it depents on the mount kit that you choose. I believe the 'scarab' kit mounts further forward and doesnt allow for a manual. Whereas the JTR kit does. I toyed with the idea of the LT1 for a while but decided against it. So if anyone is interested I have an LT1 with an overhaul kit for sale. I may choose a different handle because I decided against that option too.

I was gonna go the braided route too. But everybody and his mother has braided kits. I think I will go with the silicone hoses. The come in pretty colors :classic:

I would agree with checking the float levels. You can remove the bell chamber and the piston and look in the carb body there is probably a puddle of gas above the jet. Either due to too high a float level or misadjusted jets. I spent $150 on the rebuild kit because the guy I bought the car from swore that the carbs were toast. I should have checked them myself because it turns out that they were just severely gummed up. the biggest problem I have is leaking at the throttle shafts. Also check to see if the needle is really bent or if it's just binding in the jet. Again, as was mentioned the Z therapy video covers this.

Thanks for all the responses. The pully was right after all. I just goofed. I knew what my eyes were telling me had to be wrong and it was. The Z is moving under its own power now. No more bipedal motor. I forgot to check compression but I think it should be good. The motor felt powerful on the 10 second test drive I had time for. Part throttle response is less than I expected but the vacuum advance was not connected to a ported source. So I will have to correct that. The SU's are leaking at the throttle shaft but I guess that's normal. Maybe Ztherapy carbs will be in the budget soon Thank you again.

Thanks for the responses. I should have thought of that. I will do that asap. I think there's a store around here that sells a TDC whistle that screws into th spark plug hole. Thanks again for the help. Oh BTW does anyone have the outside diameter of the pulley I probably should check for vacuum leaks too.

Ok, I finally got some time to start working on my Z. I rebuilt the SUs and they are nice. However, I am having some trouble setting the correct timing on the engine. The car is a '71 and I am the third owner. I verified that the notch on the damper pully lines up with the pointer when the distributor rotor points to the #1 cylinder. But at idle, when I put the timing light (set to 0) on it the marks are nowhere to be seen. I had to turn the dial to 45 to line up the mark at the pointer. My first thought is that there is no way I have 45 degrees of advance at idle. It shouldn't start with that much advance. I am testing at 700 rpm and I tried with the vacuum advance attached and with it plugged. (I am not so sure that the vac advance is any good) The previous owner died but his son said that he had rebuilt the motor. Is it possible that he used a different pulley on this car?? One thing that makes me suspect this is that accordint to the book there should be 3 notches 5 degrees apart. But on the pulley there are only 2 notches and they are about an inch apart. That seems way too big a gap for 5 degrees. Does anyone sell timing tape for this pulley. From the look of it I doubt it but I am hoping... What is the diameter of the correct pulley. Help!! I am not a big fan of timing by 'ear', which is what I have had to do.

It seems as though most here like the orange as I do I was contemplating painting my Z LeMans sunset. But, I like the copper of the FX Infinity better. Volvo also has a copper that is very nice. My Z has a long way to go before paint tho.

Thanks for the input all. I will go search on hybridz for some pics.

If at all. The guy who owned my z before me used fiberglass (which is better than bondo) and now I will have to replace several panels due to rust damage. You do not want to use Bondo on a 30 year old car. Bondo absorbs moisture and will turn your prize int o a rust bucket. Go to www.eastwood.com and search body filler for better alternatives. That said, bondo is rather easy to work with if you have a steady hand and some artistic talent. Sand and prep the dented areas. use body hammers/dollies to get as much of the dent out as possible. Then apply the bondo in several layers. Use a straight edge to determine the deepest part of the dent and start the first layer there. Apply your layers carefully and you won't have much sanding to do afterwards. Very important!!! Wear a respirator. Bondo dust will kill you!

I have a '71z that I am rejuvenating. I really don't care for the drip rails. My friend says that if I grind them off I would ruin the character of the car. I think it would be an improvement. I would like further input from the Z community. I'll probably never drive in the rain anyway. Has anyone done/seen this. Pics would be greatly appreciated Thanks Notsonewbie PS. I fully anticipate getting flamed by some purists. I don't mind. I would appreciate any input