DoctorMuffn

^ Good! Thanks, Nustad. But I'm going to hold off for now. I need to start researching the RB25/RB26 NA swap and I know I'll need to take into consideration the rear end for that. I doubt the R200 will hold up. Thanks again. The Doctor

Here's a heads up on another R160 LSD! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7914777754&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT I too had the same question and already posted in the HELP! forum. Sorry if I'm saturating, but I was really curious, and I need an affordable LSD bad so I can start drifting! Please let me know if you learn that the R160 is applicable or not, Nustad! The Doctor

Will this LSD work in my 240Z? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7914777754&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

And here is the tech article by Mr. Beandip himself. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9477

Oooops! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12741 Found it, and I didn't have to buy the damned video! Thanks for asking the original question, Deadflo, and thank you for your well informed answer and direction, Beandip. This forum is an outstanding help. The Doctor

I guess I should have clarified a question to be answered. I need to know which method is the proper method. Which carb should I be diagnosing for mixture when lifting the suction piston of say the front carb and listening for the changes in idle?

I am experiencing a great deal of confusion with the dashpot piston (or suction piston) lifting method to tune the mixture of the SU carburetors. I've read that lifting on one carb helps diagnose mixture on the other carb. I've also read (according to Scott Fisher) that lifting the piston of one carb helps with diagnosis of that carb itself. What's most interesting is that there is a lot of support for both cases but I am receiving the most factual support for the first case - lifting on one carb helps diagnosis of the other. Support: Naturally you would think that lifting of the piston of one carb affects that carb only and helps one diagnose mixture for that carb. Not to mention that most of the sources I reference refer to this technique including Scott Fisher and a good Z friend of mine in Cincinnati. However, I've also read that lifting of the piston of one carb cancels that carb by opening the venturi too much to allow fuel pickup. This in turn forces the engine to rely wholly on the other carb. If it stalls the mixture on the other carb is too lean if it runs and maintains idle the mixture is rich. If it reduces idle but doesn't stall the mixture is stoichiometric. Furthermore, I've verified this on my car, but I'm still having tuning problems with this method as well as the other. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and if you need more clarification I would be more than happy to oblige. Thanks.

Hehe there it is. Sweet, thanks.

Awesome, thanks a lot guys.

Thanks a lot, sblake01, for sharing your knowledge with me. Actually, I was curious about one more thing... Where can I get the microfiche so that I can have access to this information too. I have a feeling that I'm going to be keeping my car for a long time and more parts will be needed down the road.

No luck on ebay yet, but thanks for the reply.

So from this I can derive that all 240Zs 70-73 have the same window regulators and door windows? Some guy at the chula vista all Z yard was trying to tell me that a 72 regulator won't fit into a 73... ? The Doctor

I'm looking for a driver's side window regulator for my '73 240Z and the yards are dry for 240s (not to mention I bought a 260Z regulator and window, but it doesn't work - probably because it was 2+2). I'm going to try MSA tomorrow morning, but I was hoping someone could let me know of other places so I can have access to those essential resources to properly care for my poor "fair lady." Thanks for any help. The Doctor

Yeah, it was a 2+2. In fact, I have a question I need answered: Did Nissan make 260s with only 2 seats? Oh yeah, and where the hell can I find these parts? I spent all day in pick-a-part yards and wasn't able to find a regulator (the brackets that support and drive/move the door windows) anywhere. The Doctor

No way! I bought one from a yard yesterday in hopes that it would work, but the regulator itself is almost an inch too long and the window is a few inches too long. Consensus: The window regulators or door windows from a 260Z will not bolt directly into a 240Z or vice versa. I would imagine the same is true for the 280s as well, but I didn't verify that. Correct me if any of this information is wrong or it needs to be more specific to seating layout or whatever. The Doctor

Thanks, lordbiotree, that's an excellent resource.

Wow excellent find, MikeW. Thank you very much for all of your help with regards to my plight. Thanks especially for taking the time to share your wealth of knowledge. Furthermore, I read something on this forum that recommended a 24.75" rolling diameter to measure accurate speed, and either 195/70s or 175/75s will yield very close measurements. The Doctor

I need an idea on width too. An aspect ratio means nothing without width. Will I be looking for 175/75 R14? Is that going to make my speedo read properly? My rolling circumference is 69" yielding a rolling diameter of about 21.9"; this is with 185/60s which look way small in my wheel wells and read almost 90mph at common freeway traffic speed of about 75-80. Thanks for your help to this point though, MikeW. The Doctor Oh yeah, I've got the 4 speed tranny right now.

Is that the same for a '73 240Z? The manual tells me 175 HR-14 (Tubeless)... What does that mean? Where's the aspect ratio? Please help, The Doctor

Datsunfreak! I'm with you, Bro - I hate power assisted brakes also. I've disconnected my booster as well, and when I get enough money I'd like to do a full brake system upgrade. Also, the lack of the booster makes left foot braking much easier. But I don't know too much so I will go over my brake system and eventually get the dual brake M/C (at least I've learned that Tilton makes this). The Doctor

Wow, I am learning so much. I have the same problem with my '73, but I'll perform the tests/alignments myself (at school with the manual), and I'll keep you posted. I just wanted to thank you, Poncho and 2ManyZs, for all of your help/patience in this matter; you are helping me as well as Pusher. The Doctor

Yup! just replacing it. I have a '73 S30 (I hope that's right) with an L28 in it. Someone saw my car and handed me a box of parts (most new except for the SU carbs which I've begun to study/disassemble so I can better tune/address the SUs in my car). A water pump was included in the box, and I was thinking that I might need a timing chain and sprocket replacement so why not do the water pump too. I'm glad to learn that they are the same. Thanks, TomoHawk and ED, for your responses to my question. The Doctor

Will an L24 water pump fit in an L28?

How much charge of R12 would I need? I can do the math, but I need to start with a base figure of something. Thanks

I have a '73 240Z with a retrofitted (if that even qualifies as the 240s didn't come with A/C anyway) A/C system. I need to know how much of a R134a charge it will need. I'm working on my system at school in automotive A/C class, but I've yet to find any hard facts on how much charge it takes. The most I know about it right now is that it has a massive York Compressor. Unfortunately the compressor's clutch is constantly engaged when I turn the A/C on which will be another problem I have to address. Any help on how much charge I put in the system will be great. Thanks! The Doctor