DoctorMuffn

6 3/4" front and 7 1/4" rear from the rockers (the seam where the car is raised not the frame rail as I understand it). And the driver's side is 1/4" higher for each measurement.

I'm actually moving to Virginia. Interesting points, FastWoman. I did consider losing my bikes if the vacuum cup loses suction, but I was overlooking the liability for the damage it would cause other vehicles... As far as the sheet metal and paint go, my car is haggard already, but I worry my peeling clear coat would reduce the suction capabilities of the vacuum cup to begin with. Thanks for your input.

I went with the KYB Excel-G dampers (361001 and 361002) to get an affordable and close-to-stock replacement until I'm experienced enough to section my struts myself. I know, they're the same shocks I pulled out, but I can see the old cartridges were definitely shot now that I can compare them to new ones. I cut a coil off each spring as well; I'm wagering they were stock springs. I'll take ride height measurements when I get it all aligned after I install Techno Toy Tuning's LCAs front and rear. Then I'll replace the tires. And even now with only the dampers replaced it rides a great deal better. Thanks for everyone's input. I'm excited about doing the coilover setup when the time comes.

Mini Bomber | SeaSucker I've been looking for a way to bring my cycles with me when I move across country. I thought I'd throw this out there for general reference in case others were looking for racks or mounts for recreational equipment. And to see what others on the board think of this design. I'll call on it tomorrow. Thanks for looking. Look up SeaSucker on YouTube also if you want more video footage.

Great idea. Thanks again, LeonV.

Gotcha'. I guess I was looking for it elsewhere; I didn't want to pay a premium for a name. I'll order some. Thanks.

I picked up three quarts of Pennzoil Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid (yellow bottle, black top). On the front it reads: For use in manual transaxles and transmissions requiring GM Part No. 12345349 or 12345577 and Chrysler Part No. 4874464. Meets GM Specification on 9985648 and Chrysler Specification MS9224. On the back it reads: Pennzoil Synchromesh Fluid is a synchromesh transmission fluid designed for certain manual transaxles and manual transmissions used by General Motors and Chrysler. It provides excellent oxidation stability, low temperature performance, synchronizer performance and is compatible with yellow metals, such as bronze, brass, and copper components found in manual trasaxles and transmissions. There's no API GL rating. But it's the only gear oil that specifically mentions transmissions and synchronizers that I could find at Autozone. What do you think?

Hey, LeonV, the label on that GL-5 Wally-World stuff says, "Protects against rust, foam, high temperature and corrosion of copper or bronze bushings." In fact, all of their gear oil branded Supertech are GL-5 and have those words on the back. Anyway, GL-4 is, as noted in another forum, "as rare as hen teeth." Not sure how I'm gonna get my hands on this crap. And I'm also doubtful it would stop that whirring sound. But that would be most excellent if it did.

That was an incredibly informative read. I read all of it, and while I don't exactly have the time to fact check everything the author, Richard Widman, says he sure seems to take a non-biased fact finding approach to his write up. And sure enough, my '73 manual calls for GL-4 in the trans and GL-5 in the diff. I'm not sure how it will affect the whirr I'm hearing, but it's definitely worth a try. Saving the day again, LeonV. Much appreciated. I'll let you know how it goes.

I'll look into that.

Oh man!!! And the suspension woes continue... I ordered Tokico's TOILK252 from Nopi yesterday to find out this morning that they're on back order and Mr. Morita of Tokico is telling Nopi 60-90 days till they're in. I've looked at Ksport coilovers and I'm gonna look at Techno Toy Tuning again since mixing and matching Carl's springs (a very generous offer) with sets of shocks starts approaching the $1k level really fast. And at that coilovers might be a better alternative since I can get Ksports for $1200 shipped from Nopi. However, those are part number CNS360-KP for 51mm strut tubes in the 280Z and not my 48mm tubes in my 240Z (as I'm determining from hybridz in their sectioning thread and the Koni part numbers for the gland nuts). See here: Strut Sectioning FAQ - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis - HybridZ. And then I have no idea how to section. Or rather, I have every idea how to section thanks now to hybridz and that FAQ link, but I don't have the experience cutting and welding I should have to begin doing so on such an important and safety-oriented part. Not sure what to do. Thanks for listening. WOW!!! I'm ready to spend some money now and I still can't fix this thing...

Sweet! Thanks for the advice, Blue. This line from your link was interesting: "Eliminates gear whine and rattle at high temperatures" I don't really have a shifting problem and the whirr or whine doesn't seem to be temperature based. But I'll give a better listen next time I'm in it to see if there's a difference in intensity cold to hot. I've got Walmart Supertech full synthetic 75W-140 in it right now. Is this a bad oil?

I finished the rebuild. It's mostly good. I've been rolling around on it for a few days now. I get a whir on decel from first gear that gets more pronounced when I disengage the clutch. Not sure what it is, but I'm not really excited about getting back into it. I'm responding mainly to close up this thread with a solution. I feel like I've asked questions and not come back to the threads I've started to say "I won!" Thanks, ClassicZcar.

Got it! Excellent explanation. Finally it makes perfect sense. Thanks, LeonV.

You were right, Carl. I went and found some of Arne's posts from before and he did say the ride height was raised from USA stock height with those Euro springs. And now he's confirmed it with his notes just above. Thanks to you both again for the references and copius notes. Even though the Euros and shocks purchased separately and paired up will run me quite a bit more than the Tokico ILK252 kit I'll be considering it. I'm also waiting to hear back about whether the springs on the Tokicos are linear or progressive. I was really leaning toward linears which the Euros are. Hmmm... Thank goodness I have some time (about a week or two) before I make this decision. In the meantime I'll be finishing the rebuild on my transmission; it seems like I got caught up in that "while I'm at it" thinking when I pulled the trans to rebuild it and replace the clutch and flywheel - I went after the rear suspension too. No worries since I did the pins a while back. I'll have to try the damper replacement without pulling the upright next time. Although, I was fortunate enough to get a stand up spring compressor on the cheap when my brother closed his shop a while back so that might not be useable if I don't pull the upright out. Decisions. Fun ones. Why is it that cutting a spring will raise its rate?

Awesome, Arne. Thanks for that. Whatever I go with I'll use some oil to cool the cartridge. And I appreciate the offer, Carl. Let me say that some of your clarifications in other threads were incredibly helpful. I'm going to do some price comparisons and I'll pm you with some questions if that's alright. And regarding what you said with cutting 1 1/2 to 2 coils off of those springs when paired with non-gas dampers (such as Konis for example) to bring it to stock ride height is contrary to the answer Arne gave in my question specifically about that pairing. Now I'm not sure what the case is, but I'll go back to a couple threads to cross reference what he had said before. It just bothers me to envision myself cutting a perfectly new and good set of springs. Then again maybe it's not such a big deal. The responses to this thread have been very much appreciated. Thank you both.

Thanks, Arne, those direct responses to my questions were very helpful. It seems since the Euro Specs aren't readily available I'll just be going with the Tokicos and expecting a slightly less rigid ride than others have experienced due to my set up. Thanks again. And what promptness. Have a great Sunday. Oh! One thing then... I won't be needing oil in the tubes when I replace the inserts (dampers shocks whatever) with a sealed cartridge like the KYBs I pulled out or the Tokicos I'm considering right? I've heard things about oil being poured into the tube to help any damper with heat transfer to the tube itself. But what you say makes it sound like the tube was the original "cartridge" with a working piston closed up within it and the enclosed oil serving as the dampening fluid and not intended primarily for heat transfer. Could you speak to these conclusions I've been led to?

I just pulled the rear damper out of the upright shock tube on the driver side rear. (I'm struggling with the gland nut on the passenger side assembly but I'll get it). And the part number I find on the silver KYB damper is 361001 ODO7 (but that might be 0D07). I was curious if this part by it's numbering would be the (now 40 year old) shock the car originally came with. There are a few reasons that lead me to believe these are originals: 1. I replaced the spindle pins (along with bushings and other things) back in 2009JUN and they (the pins) seemed to have never been removed. 2. The rear springs seem to be pretty original now that I have them out and can see them. If you change shocks why not change springs? 3. The gland nuts for the damper/shock tubes seemed to be untouched and I'm struggling to get the passenger side off which tells me it could be bound up by 40 years of corrosion... Other questions: I've been reading through a lot of posts by Arne, jmortensen, Carl Beck, Marty, KTM, beandip, wa5ngp, ZSaint, Pop's Z, bpilati, and many many more in myriad suspension threads to lead me to the following lot of questions: How can I get my hands on Euro Spec Stage 1 springs? Are the Euro Specs progressive or linear? I'm lead to believe the Eibachs are progressive. True? I'm lead to believe that Koni replacements (86-1811 and 86-1812) are hydraulic units (as in not gas-filled dampers) and because of this won't be inclined to raise my ride height from stock when paired with Euro Spec Stage 1 springs. True? Are the KYB G2s (36-1002 and 36-1003) gas-filled dampers? Will the KYB G2s raise my ride height above stock when paired with Euro Spec Stage 1 springs? More background and intention with my build. I pulled my KYB damper out of the driver side rear and compressed the working piston by pressing in the damper rod. It doesn't rebound back up. This leads me to believe it's not functioning properly. It takes a lot of force and time to draw it back out to full length. If it's gas wouldn't it rebound automatically? Do hydraulic dampers not rebound on their own? I've also been leaning toward the Tokico TOILK252 (white kit with adjustability) since it's a kit of springs and shocks together. However, I've been reading a lot of unsettling comments on how excessively stiff they are. Maybe since I'm not running my sway bars and have wider wheels (acting at a greater advantage to the springs) this effect may be countered a bit. I also like the idea of the ride height being about 1" lower than stock much more than the possibility of higher than stock heights when the Euro Springs are mated to different shocks; I understand this is a gas shock tendency to add to the spring rate and in turn raise the ride height. If I don't go with the Tokicos then I'd like to garner a supple yet responsive ride with Euro Springs (if they're linear) over the Konis or KYBs without raising my ride above stock. Those are the few options I've come to be considering now given my research over the last month. I guess I'm looking for linear springs and shocks that work together well to give a supple ride when on the street commuting but a sporty responsive ride while driving the twisties. And I'm not using the sway bars so as to keep my suspension as independent as possible at each corner per Fred Puhn's How to Make Your Car Handle. Or maybe I read that in Bilinski's Kimini. Thanks in advance, Sean

"I called my local Nissan and gave them the parts code 32844E - that translates to Nissan part #32917-E930A (this part replaced 32917-E9301)." Thanks to fastd and his quote above excerpted from one of my private messages I've got this pin on order. Nissan does have them somewhere in the country and will get them to you. I paid $4.13 (SoCal) for mine which is a steal considering if I couldn't get a replacement I'd have to put hours into fixing my old one or using a bolt instead. And the bolt idea seemed all kinds of wrong.

I'm seeing this: Part Detail Which part did you order? I can't find the pin I need, 32844E, in the listing. And thanks for such a quick response. I've got everything apart in my garage and it's my daily.

It's the lock pin which holds the striking lever to the striking rod. See this pdf pg 4: http://www.jdmgallery.com/wp-content/Datsun/70-78/1978_280z_FSM/MT%20Manual%20Transmission.pdf I had trouble getting it out as fastd did from his post of a couple weeks ago, however I handed the whole assembly off to a technician friend before I cut anything up. I did try drilling into the "head" of the pin and even a small hole through the lever itself all in hopes to relieve some tension of the hold the pin had on the surrounding parts. So here I am hoping (reasonably I believe) that the lever with its little hole is still reusable but I'm looking for a new lock pin. Anyone know how or where I can get one? These things have also been called transmission control or shift rod/shift linkage. They're labeled correctly with the terms above and confirmed in the pdf manual linked. Unfortunately the pdf is more accurate but different from the dealer book I'm using for my '73 S30; otherwise it would have indicated to me that a pin instead of bolt was holding everything together and saved a bunch of confusion.

Thanks, Jon. I just ordered the CC flywheel and I'll slap an Autozone clutch on it. I get to rebuild the trans too in the process; I ordered those parts from drivetrain.com. Great advice too on the assessment to determine when an upgraded clutch is required. I'll keep that in mind down the road.

Competition Clutch Flywheel for $246 shipped from VR Speed Factory Competition Clutch 69-72 Nissan 240Z 2.4L STU Flywheel 2-588-STU "[Competition Clutch Flywheel] stamped with 4140 plate with 2000 ton pressure at 1260 degrees CNC machined and balanced to O.E. specifications" Fidanza Aluminum flywheel $350+ shipped Fidanza Steel flywheel clutch $372+ shipped "Fidanza high performance Steel Flywheel differ from the competition by being not only durable but serviceable. Another reason they out perform the competition is that the body is milled from a 1045 billet steel slab. The 1045 is a high carbon steel. It’s incredibly strong and can withstand the rigors of the most extreme engines, drivers and conditions. Of course all Fidanza steel flywheels include a serviceable 1045 steel insert for the clutch to ride on, which is attached using the highest quality aerospace fasteners." Fidanza Aluminum flywheel with Exedy clutch for $435 shipped from Ultrarev on eBay Exedy Clutch Fidanza Flywheel 240Z 260z 280z 280ZX | eBay Why priced so differently? How is the manufacturing quality of CC's products? Is Fidanza better? What's the difference between those quoted sections for their respective flywheels? Has anyone had stripped bolt hole issues with the Fidanza aluminum flywheels? Has anyone experienced a seating issue with the stock clutch to the Fidanza flywheel due to stock bolts being too long causing poor clutch adjustment and engagement? Thanks P.S. I'm not interested in aluminum over steel. I'd prefer a stock setup (even a stock machinable flywheel) for my mostly stock Z. The most intriguing purchase for me at this point is the CC flywheel due to affordability. More information for those who are interested in motives: I've had an unsprung 6 puck disc on a stock flywheel for the past 4 or 5 years to only end up with a well worn, unmachinable flywheel and a thrashed input shaft bearing that roars something hideous in low gears. The clutch looks fine as it no longer was the weak link protecting more expensive, harder to service components. Maybe It chattered too much during engagement. Maybe I'm a bad driver. I'm ready to stop re-engineering what's worked in these cars for over 40 years until I do my engine swap to my Lexus 1UZ 4.0 liter. I will need this stock setup for the next 5-10 years until the project begins. I'm looking for longevity and reliability. Any input is greatly appreciated.

And it did. Dave still does offer them. Thanks for all the responses. I'll look into the wiring modifications I need for the relay/fuel pump if I find an issue. The original pump has been removed and disconnected since I've owned the car and I've hooked another generic pump to the green wire coming from the black with white stripe (switched on) ignition fuse. It's been working for the past 2 years so I expect it's not causing my problem. There's that and I disconnected it and was still blowing that ignition fuse until I disconnected the T-plug from the back of my alternator (the externally regulated 240Z model). Again, I appreciate the quick responses.

I've been doing research for the last couple days on the 280ZX alternator upgrade in a 240Z. I've got a '73 240Z and I'm first and foremost curious if Zs-Ondabrain (Dave Irwin I gathered) is still supplying the wiring adaptor for this particular upgrade. I sent a PM, but since Arne's post relegating that responsibility to Dave Irwin was from 2006 (and I'm a bit pressed to get my car running again) I figured it best to double check here among the general membership as well. Another query I had: Are the alternators from ‘79-80 different from the ‘81-83 280ZXs?