webdawg1

So....do you have some sort of death wish or something??? Hmmmm...gasoline dripping all over the place...gasoline explodes...car explodes...bit and pieces of Car & YOU found within couple hundred feet of blast crater...Hello...get another tank and be around to talk about it with your grandkids.... webdawg1

Well what in the world are you waiting on !!!...() We'll be on your case until you get started !!!...Have you started on it YET!!! Hows that to get you started ??? he he () Now we'll be needing weekly progress reports...and the IP address for the webcam out in the garage...(So we can look over your shoulder) he he Welcome to da hood... webdawg1

How about http://www.gastankrenu.com Even tho it looks new inside these guys could probably cut out the area in question, patch and weld as needed to get it looking like it should, plus seal the inside so you won't ever have any problems in the future. Sort of like an insurance policy in advance, but prior to you ever having a problem. Just a thought...When I sent them my tank I had a pretty big area on the bottom of the tank where it was caved in, plus it was somewhat rusty inside. After I got it back could not even tell where the caved in area was. webdawg1

Here's another spreadsheet I currently have done that can be posted for general use by all concerned....Remember to make any changes to the spreadsheet(s) based on your model year (I.E. - 240, 260, 280) as there will be "some" differences between model years...but for the most part should be pretty accurate...It also helps if you have the Z Microfiche CD-Rom so you'll know what to change in the various spreadsheets for your model year... webdawg1 Fiche 170A-1 (Emblems From Dec '74).xls

Are your straps missing period ??...or are they just in really bad shape? webdawg1

I think they need a bigger barn...() I'd say a couple of wash jobs are in order as well...Geez look at all that dust...must be about 20 years worth...() webdawg1

Will, In case someone wants to send in stuff via the internet for the DVD. I use a place called http://www.dropload.com (It's a file parking site I use from time to time to drop off large files. Max is about 100mb if I remember correctly. Take about 60 seconds to set up an account and it's FREE) That should help out with the 10mb max on your email account... webdawg1

Sent you a PM in regards to the seat sliders. webdawg1

I suppose as a follow-up to all concerned. In the future...should someone respond back to a question about the (Spindle Pin Locking Bolt) and which way it should it be driven out. I suppose the next question to be asked would be "So which way are they facing right now, threaded end Up or Down" and then follow up with "If facing down...Blah Blah Blah" or "If facing up...Blah Blah Blah" Later... webdawg1

Hey...Whatever floats your boat....I kind of like the "Ghost Stripes" myself. I kind of think "Silver MetalFlake" might look really good if done in a tastefull way...But hey...that's just my 2 cents worth...Do what ever makes you happy...It's your CAR... webdawg1

You should be able to get it off with a wide blade putty knife (Approx. 1 1/2) Once you get it started (I started from the rear and worked my way to the front), just use the putty knife blade between the drip rail and the lip that it hooks onto. (I.E. - It spreads the force out when you pry on the drip rail so it does not put big dings in it like you would get if you were using a big screwdriver) Just don't get into a big hurry...take you time....now take a deep breath... you'll do fine.... webdawg1

Will probably have to find several parts cars and take them off and make you up a set from what you get off the parts cars. That's what I ended up doing in order to get a full set front to rear for mine...Last I heard they are NLA (No Longer Available) Seems to be a common issue...replacing those little guys... Did the POR-15 thing on all the brackets after blasting them...should never rust again...EVER webdawg1

I guess I'm more or less doing the same thing...Getting all the major stuff in hand I'll be needing to do the job the right way. (I.E. - MIG welder, Misc. Air tools, Plasma cutter, Rotisserie, Air conditioner/Heater for the garage) I'd say the body would be the most important part to start with. Everything else ties back into the body...period. In the mean time I'm doing what I can as far as refurbishing what parts I can do myself. Other parts (Gas tank, valve cover,engine) are sent out and redone as I can get to them... Just going to take some time and money....lots of money..... webdawg1

Saw a leather shift boot on eBay that might be of some interest to all. Ebay item #220070145713. Looks pretty good from what I can see of it... webdawg1

The one to the left is more period correct as far as model year. However the one to the right looks like it (might) stand up better under the hood. it looks like it has more meat to it so-to-speak. You can also buy new connectors and boots from Wurth, See attached file. How about heavy duty heat shrink wire wrap. I see it on harbor freight from time to time. I got some to cover the wiring coming from the headlights where it hooks into the harness on either side. www.harborfreight.com webdawg1

I got my tank done by Moyer Fuel Tank Renu. Looks like brand new to me. Ran me about $295.00, but then it was in half way decent shape. I even had a pretty good area on the bottom where it was caved in about 2-3 inches and it also had a small punture. I sent them a picture showing them the area of concern and they took care of it.... webdawg1

When you drained the gas what did it look/smell like? Was it kind of dark brown? More than likely you'll be doing some work on your fuel tank shortly...crud...crud...and more crud from all the years storage. Good news is you can send it out to be done or you can do it yourself...Do a search on fuel tank renu if you want to send it out... webdawg1

You might want to let it sit a little bit longer. Maybe even put in about one teaspoon of motor oil in each sparkplug hole and just let it sit for about a week or so. Don't get in a hurry. You may have to try several times with the 27mm socket and breaker bar before it will break free inside the motor. webdawg1

If you break it down one fiche section at a time it's not so over powering...That way you just don't throw your hands up in dispair when you get going on about a zillon things at one time. I've just been checking things off as I go. (I.E. - Repair, Replace, Replate, Repaint...etc...etc) As you take things off, Bag em and Tag em...making note as to fiche section and what needs to be done to it...Item #...etc. I got a whole bunch of Staples paper boxes from work. (Free all day long) Then I put the Fiche section on both ends. That way if I need to do something to an item in a certain section it really easy to locate it. Just work your way thru each fiche section, and before you know it you'll be done... If you need any help just put out a cry for help...P/N's, Picture of something, you name it... webdawg1

You could probably use some of the spreadsheets that I've made up then...Just do a search on (spreadsheets) without the brackets and you'll see some I made up to help out with my 75 280Z. If you get a copy of the Zcar Microfiche CD it will help you out quite a bit, and it will even help tie in with the spreadshhets as that's what they're based on. Believe it or not you can still buy a lot of parts from the dealers. As long as you have a P/N in hand when you go in they'll bend over backwards to help you find the part you're looking for...I've been going in so much they don't even ask me to pay up front anymore... I've got one spreadsheet on the last post that will let you track all the P/N's, on order, backorder, item recieved...etc...etc. webdawg1

Forgot the EFI bible link...Hello.... http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/EFI/ webdawg1

Do you have a copy of the EFI Bible? If not here's the link where you can download it. Will probably want to print it out (Approx. 70+ pages) How about the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your model year? The EFI manual will make reference to certain pages in the FSM when doing troubleshooting. Would address the fuel pump issue first. Without the fuel pressure you're just spinning your wheels so to speak. Next would look at the ECU (Engine Control Unit) as a culprit and or the fuel pump relay, but first of all you have to have fuel pressure... See what I'm getting at here..... You can buy the fuel pump from various places like...MSA, Black Dragon, Napa, etc...etc. Couple of other related issues are the fuel tank/fuel lines getting all gunked up from sitting for a long time. (I.E. - fuel lines get all blocked up from the fuel turning to jello....Fuel tank with a bunch of crud in it...etc...etc. webdawg1

Saw this website the other night while tooling around on the web. Thought it might be of some interest...Alright now....quit drooling all over the place. http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/ webdawg1

Here ya go...That guy from Sweden...Mull is his handle...has some awesome video's to watch...If that don't get ya pumped up...then you're dead or something...(well you know what I mean....) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17399&highlight=sweden webdawg1

What are we going to do?? I guess we could say a lot of four and five letter words at you like: FORD, CHEVY, DODGE, MOPAR....(Not trying to wizz anybody off by the way...just trying to inject some humor here) I'm just getting started real good on my car, so I'm probably not even anywhere near where you are at with your car...sigh webdawg1