webdawg1

Should be located on the bottom of the intake and in the center. Should have a fairly good size rubber hose going from the PCV valve over to the pipe sticking out on the left front side of the engine just behind the front timing cover. PCV hoses are still available from the dealer as well. About $16.00 if I remember correctly. webdawg1

Just have to call around some...Will probably need to pull them from several part cars in order to replace them all. Some are in better shape than others. Same thing on the rubber do-dads that hold the lines. I managed to scrounge up enough to do the whole car front to back. Media blasted them (the ones that were in decent shape) and did the POR-15 coating on them. Should never rust again....... webdawg1

Following url link tells you all about the process: http://www.witchhunter.com/process2.htm Pretty cheep as well....as compared to buying new injectors. Now that will set you back some money..... webdawg1

I'm not the only one that suggested you check it out.... (Your fuel tank) It was more of a afterthought really....if you do a search on (Fuel Tank Renu or fuel tank) you should turn up several places where you can send if off to and have it redone. Save you a lot of trouble down the road and should last you quite a few years. If it's anything like 95 percent of most of the Z's out there you'll probably have some crud/rust/who knows what you'll find in there..... webdawg1

While you're in the fix it mode, you might want to take a peek inside the fuel tank one day and see how it looks..... Might save you some grief down the road. Just a thought.... webdawg1

You can get kits already made up at Napa and other parts places like that. Start out around $40.00 or so for the basic kit all the way up to around $300-400 for the super deluxe kits. Just depends on which kit you think will work out best for you in the long run.... webdawg1

Here's a list of stores in the USA that might help you out some. Appears to be pretty easy to get here local. (I.E.- O'Reilly) I don't see why any of these folks could not ship to you.... Hope it helps you out some...Check them out and see what you think.... webdawg1 L24 Air Filter Sources.doc

I plugged in the air cleaner P/N: (16546-E3210 good up to 08/72) at the following url: http://www.nissanparts.cc They are currently showing that they have them in stock @ $14.95 each. Not sure what it would be for shipping to your neck of the woods using Global USPS priority Mail.... You might want to see about contacting them and see what they have to say...I might even be able to find it here local. I'll plug into the local parts stores and see what I come up with as far as a price range. webdawg1

I would lean to the (crap in the fuel rail) idea. When I pulled mine off to clean up the fuel rails I sprayed carb cleaner thru the rails using the little red straw.... You would not believe what kind of CRAP came out of the rails....we're talking BIG old honking flakes of STUFF.... If you want to send them off (Your injectors) to be cleaned here's a url: http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorserv1.htm I would see about trying to clean up the inside of the fuel rails first tho...you might be able to clean up the fuel injectors with some carb cleaner, but it might be the better part of valor to just go ahead and send them off to be cleaned...your call on that one.... webdawg1

You ever notice that about dogs....They always want to lick what ever private part that they want to lick at that point in time, and then give you a BIG old sloppy dog kiss.....What's up with that!!!! webdawg1

After you get everything all sorted out/cleaned/replaced, you might want to start running some Seafoam thru your fuel system every so often. You can check it out at the following url: http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm webdawg1

Have you downloaded the EFI bible? Will probably help you out some...Having the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your model year will also help out quite a bit, as the EFI bible makes reference to various sections, page numbers, procedures...etc...etc. You can get the EFI bible at the following url: http://www.72hours.net/~zcar webdawg1

How about the following url: http://www.redtek.ca/ Redtek 12a replaces R-12, 134a refrigerant. Runs colder than R-12...No retrofitting required. Check them out.... webdawg1

Nut should be 14mm x 1.50 (Self Locking), so you should be in pretty good shape with what tools you currently have on hand.... webdawg1

It should look just like this......all pretty and shiny...etc...etc. webdawg1 Rear Hose Connector.bmp

You'll be taking all three wires out of the connector. Made myself several pictures for reference purposes of the headlight connector as to where each wire goes in relation to the connector. In other words, if you had the bare headlight bulb in your left hand and you had the connector in you right hand with the wires attached, just connect the two and make note as to where each wire is going. You'll need to cut apart/seperate the wires inside the metal bulb housing as they are bonded together three across. That way when you feed them back thru the new grommet one at a time to connect them back into the connector it should not be a problem. You can use the pictures as a reference source and put the color codes for each wire in it's correct place/location. (Before you tear it apart of course....) webdog1

You might try Lowes or Ace Hardware in the electrical section. You'll be looking for P/N: GHG-1538 by GB (Gardner Bender) About $1.69 or so...5 grommets to the package. My plan is to use several long pieces of heavy duty shrinkable tubing to go over the wires and then seal them up where they go thru the grommet. webdawg1

Might be able to get the fuel rails from the dealership.......maybe. Here's the part numbers for the all three (3) fuel rails. Fuel pipe (A) P/N: 17521-N4201 - The big long one Fuel pipe ( P/N: 17522-N4201 - Front rail Fuel pipe © P/N: 17523-N4201 - Rear rail If you can get them you're looking at approx. $200.00+ just for the rails. You could probably get the fuel rails media blasted and or replated or powder coated for less than that. The rest you could probably do yourself depending on how handy you are with a paint gun..... webdawg1

I would venture to say that the cable is probably froze up. Might try spraying some lubricant into the end of the cable jacket. Will probably take several sessions to free it up. Might also be the valve itself..... webdawg1

Believe it or not...You can still buy a lot of this stuff (OEM parts) from the dealership near you...As long as you have a good part number to work with, they can usually tell you within just a couple of minutes as to if it is NLA (No Longer Available) or not. They usually know somebody, that knows somebody, that knows somebody...that can get you your part. Good source for local stuff too...If it's NLA then check eBay almost every day and you'll be amazed as to what turns up from time to time......lots of stuff still in the OEM bag...etc...etc webdawg1

Ever thought about having an original steering wheel redone. The following url will give you some info and approx. cost. Should be able to pick one up on eBay fairly cheap....or local if you can find one.... http://american-stitches.com/index.htm webdawg1

Various size ziplock bags. (At least for the smaller parts anyway) Keeps them clean...etc...etc. Seems to work pretty good for me..... Bag them and tag them...you can also break the parts down into related groups per the microfiche for better tracking....(I.E. - These parts get repainted, these parts get replated, these parts get powder coated, these parts are done...etc...etc) webdawg1

Keep an eye out on ebay....I saw one on there the other night. Auction might still be running.... I'll see if I can find the auction number for you if it's still listed.... webdawg1

Does it look like the picture enclosed. If so that would be P/N: 32869-E8700. Should have a metal ring that secures it down to the top of the tunnel with 4 screws..... webdawg1

Yeah, it works pretty good. Just use a small sharp tip on the soldering iron. Might want to use some sort of glove on the hand holding the fuel injector (Just in case you slip) Should not take you more than a couple of minutes each.... webdawg1