webdawg1

I found a really good "Reference" picture on eBay that shows the inside of an aircleaner that appears to be pristine and untouched on the inside. I would venture to say that this is the color that you are looking for. webdawg1 Air Breather (Reference).bmp

I do understand the pros and cons of downloading various Z related pictures. Only reason I've downloaded any pictures to date (cough cough) is to document some aspect of the "Z" restoration process or as a wallpaper to keep me motivated to keep working on my "Z". (yes it does take some personal sacrifice to restore a "Z", and yes it is a real pain in the arse, but well worth it (IMHO), just ask my wife.) Without this resource being available, or at least with access to it, I'm pretty sure that down the road there will less and less "Zs" being restored each year because "everyone" does not have access to this wealth of knowledge. (Like they say "A picture is worth a thousand words" I'm pretty sure there's a way that each picture posted in a gallery could have a link to the owner asking permission to download said picture(s). (I.E - password protected...etc) Owner of said picture(s) responds via PM with "Password" for their gallery only. Problem solved...... Just my 2c worth... webdawg1

I've always refered to my 1975 280Z as "Slimer" from the movie "Ghostbusters" as it's always been a somewhat mischievous car. (I.E. - wiring problems, misc. leaks, strange thumps and sounds...etc...etc) Have included a picture that I found out on the internet that I intend to place on the rear hatch. webdawg1 Slimer.bmp

Did some more looking around on the "Wurth" website and turned up a couple more items of interest dealing with the "Fuel Injection Connectors" and "Hose Clamps". I see these things (FI Connectors) out on eBay all the time, but you never really know what kind of quality you might be getting. webdawg1

Was tooling around on the internet today and ran up on a possible source for "Braided" fuel & vacuum hose. I thought it might be of some interest to everyone as I've seen quite a few posts talking about "braided hose", how to get the "braided hose look"...etc...etc. I also found some telephone numbers and a url for their website....enjoy!!! I captured (cough cough) a few of the pages to give you an general idea of what all they have. Also saw some "Copper" uninsulated connectors that would work quite well on wiring repairs. webdawg1 Wurth USA 800-526-5228 Wurth California 800-346-4198 Wurth Florida 800-829-8316 Wurth Illinois 800-999-8784 Wurth Texas 800-987-8489 http://www.wurthusa.com

Bolt "C" in your diagram is the one that screws into the inner sill. (Which is hidden from sight because it's inside the plastic cover) Unscrew that one and it should come right on out. I think what you had been looking at when looking down the plastic cover was the seatbelt retraction assembly itself. Hope this helps... webdawg1

The second bolt that you are looking for is hidden under the vinyl that is glued to the inner sill. Open up either door (driver or passenger) and find the door latch assembly for the door. If you look straight down you should be looking at the selt belt retraction assembly. What you have to do is peel it (the vinyl) from the front to the rear after removing the inside scuff plate (Should have about three or four screws holding the scuff plate down) I'm going on the assumption that you will be replacing the vinyl trim with new trim anyway. Once you get the vinyl trim off you shoulf be able to get at the bolt with a socket or wrench (bolt size should be 16mm) I found a reference picture that I found that shows the right inner sill. (if you follow the seam in the floor that's right behind the rear seat mount across it almost points right at the bolt location) Hope this helps... webdawg1

door switches are toast. @^&!*+# Damn rust monster strikes again...Sorry!! webdawg1

I have a small document that I found comparing various Z heads. It might be of some help as far as making an informed decision. Never hurts to have too much data...IMHO webdawg1 Z Car Cylinder Head Reference.doc

I'm parting out a 75 280Z that I found on eBay last week. (Do a search on "75 280Z partscar") I'll take a look at the door switches on this one today and see what they look like. webdawg1

Wayne... Same car for sure!!!. Without a doubt...Just picked the car up yesterday afternoon. Rented a Uhaul car hauler and brought it down from the Atlanta area. Called my wife from work and had her bid on it for me on my behalf. Got it for a final bid of ($105.00) on eBay. Have not had a chance to look it over real good yet but will probably do so this weekend. webdawg1

I ran across a parts car on eBay just recently that I "could not pass up on" Won the auction for $105.00 (Gas tank alone is worth that much!!! Which by the way is in excellent shape with no leaks, minor surface rust only...etc) Also has all the running gear, engine is all there from what I can see. Will be parting out on eBay whatever I don't use, so if someone out there is looking for a part for their Z car (Large or small)...just PM me and I'll see if I can hook you up with what you're looking for. webdawg1 Front Left.bmp

Boy that's a tough one! There must be hundreds of different products that you could probably use for rust conversion. Several that stand out in my mind (IMO) would probably be "Picklex 20" at www.ashjentech.com (NOT CHEAP...So stand by for some sticker shock) I've got a batch heading my way as we speak. Another good one would probably be "Metal Ready" at www.por15.com (Also have a very good selection of "Heavy Duty" paints) Another possible choice would be "OxiSolv" at www.eastwood.com. As far as primer goes I'd recommend DP90LF epoxy primer (PPG Product) They also have other primer colors as well. (DP40LF (Gray-Green), DP48LF (White), DP50LF (Gray), DP60LF (Blue), DP74LF (Red Oxide) Any local paint jobber shop should be able to help you out procuring that item, as well as thinner, tack rags....etc...etc. I also found a url on the web that has what they call p-sheets on each PPG product that you might use. url as follows: www.tricitypaint.com (Each p-sheet tells you "Exactly" how to mix it, apply it, what not to do...etc...etc. Hope this points you in the right direction... webdawg1

I just ran across a place called "Fuel Injectors Direct" on the internet. url as follows: www.fuelinjectorsdirect.com (Jacksonville florida I think) You might want to send your injectors down to these guys and have them rework them for you. They also sell "refurbished" injectors in the mid $40.00 range from what I could see from checking out their web site. Checking into sending some down myself so I'll have a couple of spare injectors. webdawg1

Just a follow-up on my previous post. Snap-On has this tool (WMS1) which is a functional eqivalent for special tool (KV40100800) Appears to be special order only if you want to get one from Snap-On. Not a very cheap tool tho...$75.00-$80.00. Well worth it tho, if you don't want to chew up the strut packing nut. Fits 51mm-54mm on one side and 55mm-58mm on the other side. webdawg1

Anyone out there know where I can get hold of a "Gland Packing Wrench" for the front struts. (KV40100800) In the 75 Z FSM it's listed in section FA-21. Called up Kent Moore looking for this special tool (Kent Moore # J-25825-A) and was informed it's discontinued. Anyone know of a different P/N other than the Kent Moore P/N?? For that matter, anyone know of a different tool manufacturer that makes special tools for the Z that would be a functional equivalent?? Thanks... webdawg1

Could be the hose size! (1/4" ??) I'm no expert by a long shot, but I'm showing 5/16' ID (EFI hose) to be the correct size hose. Also how far from the end of the hose are you clamping the clamps? What name brand hose are you using? According to the service manual I have for my 75 Z it's saying to use 13.5 mm (0.531 in) hose clamps on the injector and fuel pipe side. 15 mm (0.591 in) all other positions) Insert approx. 20 mm and clamp 3 mm from the end. Has a "WARNING" about not clamping on the bulged portion of the fuel pipe also...

I was doing some research on that very same subject the other night. From what I could gleam from the various sites I checked out, it pretty much goes like the following: 1. Bead blast/sandblast item to be painted for good adhesion. 2. Prime with good 2 part epoxy primer (PPG, Dupont,...etc..etc) which ever name brand you prefer. 3. Paint item with paint color of your choice. (assuming same name brand products are used (I.E. - PPG, Dupont...etc...etc)