yoogener

werd.

:*(************ but i admit, i haven't even glanced at the car. i'm just fiending for an operating '71 dash harness. i have been f***ed so bad on ebay. FOUR dash harnesses in a row have been unoperational, and although i get a full refund, it's just a hassle and i'm getting tired of it. i'm trying to find a working one which never turns out well for me.

any chance you can let just the engine and dash harness go? thx. -yoog

I can't seem to find the website that sells the FloFit seat brackets for 240Z. If anyone is willing to sell their seat bracket or know a website that does sell 'em, please provide to this thread. THANK YOU. For those who ask why in the hell I decided to go with FloFit seats, decisions weren't in my hands. 1) They came with the car; 2) I have no money for better seats; and 3) Rather have these over stock seats. Please help me out, thanks.

Excellent! Thanks, guys.

Trying to fix this electrical problem is taking too long. After 6 months of trying, I think I'm pretty fed up now. If any of you know any good shops for Datsun Z's around Glendale, Burbank, Los Angeles, Pasadena, Northridge, Alhambra... Somewhere in the valleys... please provide the name and address or phone number. This will be of great help. I'm desperate! Thanks.

I do have the '73 headlight/wiper switch and the problem exists, so I guess there is cross-connecting going on. I'm gonna have to take the dash back out and start over, as Arne said. Thanks for all your help, guys. I'll be back with more tears soon.

When I turn the key on, the low beams will stay on. When I turn on the headlight switch, the low beams stay on. (No difference) The high beams will not come on unless the low beam is switched on, but when I do that, the alert buzzer will come on. It makes no sense to me. =( ps: I got this harness from a parts car that was recently totalled only on the front, so no damage was done to the dash or harness itself. I'm thinking that the '73 dash harness does not cooperate with the '71 body harness, yet others told me to just make sure that i have the '73 dash harness, turn signal switch and headlight switch. but that doesnt seem to solve my problem.

Don't know what you consider too much money, but (depending on your budget) Tokico Illumina's with Ground Control coilovers (or Eibach) suited me fine and I spent under $400. Except you'd have to section the housing and such, I'm sure most people do that.

What are the differences between ZT and GX SU carbs, according to power, powerline, and mpg? I've never heard of GX SU's and it sounds very interesting.

Nobody has really responded to much posts about problems involving 70-71 body harness with 72-73 dash and switches. And I can't seem to find threads on that subject. I have a '71 body and turn signal switch with a '73 dash and headlight switch. The turn signal was inconsistent in operation and headlights would not work. People said that a '72 or '73 turn signal switch would fix the problem. So I got a '72 turn signal switch and the problem was exactly the same. When I turn the key on, the headlights will come on even when the headlight switch is off; turn signals were still inconsistent; brake lights and hazard won't work. SO I assume the turn signal switch wasn't the problem. If not, then what can it possibly be? I'm so fed up with this problem! I just want to drive my car! I am desperate for a solution.

240Z from 280Z? compare the bumpers, location of turn signal lights, or the tailights. 280Z bumpers ::i think:: have shocks in the rear for improved safety so the bumper sticks out more. 280Z turn signal lights are located in the grill, whereas the 240Z turn signals are bigger and located under the bumper.

i got my car last november, and it's now been over a year since i've had it in the shop. 5 months of inactivity just to wait for a free parts car and still sittin there. i drive it around the block occasionally and it makes me so anxious to finish it. i love my car more than any other car. the only car i'd choose over this baby is a C10.

Please elaborate to this Z dumbdumb. My t/s switch isn't working properly anyway. The contacts surely are bad because it works sometimes when I slightly jam it onto one side.

So I have a '71 turn signal switch hooked to a '73 dash and headlight switch. Besides the fact that my turn signal switch needs some cleaning and checking, people say that '71 and '73 switches differ. I'm wondering if there is a way to use the '71 switch on '73 setup with some kind of conversion. Now, I ordered Wick Humble's How to Restore blah blah blah book. Does the book show you how to restore a t/s switch? Anyone know how to convert a '71 t/s switch to use on a '73 dash?

I just had a few shots of classic rum. and I must say... Enrique, you thine genius.

I own a '71 and I was trying to use parts from a '73. Is there a difference between '71 and '73 dashes? Anything different with the dash harness from a '73 that won't cooperate with the '71?

I have a set of 40DCOE Triple Weber carburetors on an E42 head. They work fine and haven't had to retune them after buying the car from the previous owner just last year. My brother had just cleaned them out and everything still works fine. I'm debating whether or not I should sell these and invest in a set of ZTherapy's. My car does feel very powerful with the Webers but it eats heaps of gas. Since mine is only a street car (occasional track), I'm willing to sacrifice some power for more mileage. How much power do these Webers give if tuned properly, and how much power do ZT's give? If you guys think I should sell my Webers for the ZT's, how much would they sell for?

Thanks for the heads up, beandip, but I had purchased floors earlier this year. I'm still working on some electrical issues before I get the floors put in. All this is great advice. Thanks for making this thread important, allowing me to get much information. Feel free to throw in some hidden tips. Greatly appreciated!

I'm stumped... Scared to find out the rust that I'm going to see. It's already got holes on the outside in that area I outlined. I know I'm gonna find it throughout the whole bottom of that area to the front???? Some place better sell these parts. I'm waiting for the VB catalog. Is it in there?

Is this still part of the quarter panel? Is it a common rust spot, or did I just get really unlucky? If it is common or if anyone has repaired this, you guys use bondo or weld?

ooh yay! =D a) How do I take off the rear hatch glass? How do the Door Cap seals go on? c)The aftermarket lower door seal from Precision seems to have holes in it. I was guessing it was for screwing it on, but the factory seal that's still on the door doesn't have screws. How should I put this one on? Thanks for your time, Gary.

I know this is a dumb question, some people probably say weatherstripping is a fairly self explanatory process. But I just want to make sure I'm doing things right. Does anyone know or have any tutorials on replacing each/most of the weatherstripping on a 240Z?

I have a '71 240Z with a '73 dash. The dash contains the '73 wiring but the rest of the wiring is still '71. My taillights, hazards, turn signals, and reverse lights all function correctly. The only thing is that the left brake light doesn't work but the right one does. All the bulbs work but when I press the brakes, the left brake lights won't get power. Anyone ever have a similar problem or have a solution? I checked my hazard switch to see if power gets sent out to the brake wires and the whole assembly is fine so now I don't know where there lacks power for the left brake light. Thanks.

I love beige. =D I like simple and nothing too flashy. White and black are great too but i'm not too good at taking care of them.