bobbovine

Depending on your location I may be interested in the 260 as a parts car for mine, if you decide not to start the restoration.

I don't think there is any issue with Hanta up here in Connecticut, I've lived here 20 years and never heard of any local cases. Rabies and Lyme Disease, but not Hanta. Then again what could it hurt to do some disinfecting. I'm no expert on the subject by any means but I tend to remember things like that. As for the fuel tank, I recently saw on one of those car restoration shows on TV, a guy use a clean milk jug and a section of new fuel line to run clean/fresh fuel directly to the carbs. You should probably drop the tank and have it boiled out first. Were about in Connecticut are you? I've only seen one other Z in my area, a 280z. I've seen it in New London a few times on my way to work in the morning. Also, what is the production date of your 260z? It can be frustrating trying to find parts for my early 260, but they're out there and available, it's also easy to retrofit certain 240 parts for those impossible to find pieces (i.e. wiper bottle, I may of been ablr to get one from Japan for over $200, but I was able to get a new 240z bottle and pump from MidwestZ for about $50 and solder my old wiring connector onto it)

Ok, I looked in the tech articles section and see the 240-to-280zx distributor schmatic, but is this the best way to go about it. What I mean is, is using a 280zx dizzy the best way to go (I'm sure the posted instructions are fine). Would I be better off going with a Mallory Unilite or something similar, is something like that overkill for a daily driver? By the way I am running a L28 in the 260z that the PO put in. Thanks

I would like to convert my 260z to electronic ignition to due away with the points, question is how? It seems using a 280zx distributor is a popular mod, but how do I get electricity to it? Splice into the main harness?

I'm trying to install an original factory radio in my 260z (early) and I've run into a snag. After removing the center console to get a better look at he wiring I find myself with two extra wires. One is blue the other red with a blue stripe. Both have a male spade connector crimped down on them. I'm fairly certain at least one, the red/blue stripe is a 12v connector as an additional 12v outlet was spliced onto the end of it at sometime in the past. I have every other connector intact and accounted for, with the exception of the choke position lead that I believe goes to a molex with two green wires. Any ideas? I'm thinking that as a last resort I might attempt to trace the unknown wire with my telecom tone generator and amp, with the negative lead disconnected at the battery it shouldn't hurt anything, right?

When I purchased my Z it had a dead battery (actually it was a fairly new battery from down south where the car was from and we were having an extreme cold snap here in CT, like 2 degrees outside, so I think the New England weather killed the battery) Anyways, I went to Sears and bought a new Diehard Weather Handler. It works well and starts the car fine when charged, but with the battery brack on the negative battery cable barely sits and clamps down on the terminal. I'm afraid it may pop off one of these days. Any suggestions?

I'm having some issues with the tach in my 74' 260 (Carborated L28 engine) The car itself starts (if I can ever track down why my battery keeps draining, maybe reliably someday) and runs fine, but my tach doesn't work. When the car is off the needle goes to the rest loaction on the guage, but when you start it the needle goes all the way right. I've seen it work once for a few minutes then it just went to the right again. Any ideas? Thanks

Ed, send me some info @ t.atkinson AT snet.net when you're ready to get rid of the wheels, i.e. price, shipping. Just replace AT with @, I don't need anymore spam bots e-mailing me Thanks

Does anyone know of a good source for new/slightly used steel wheels. I have a set of original black "five spoke" style hub caps for my 74 260z I'd like to use, but I don't have the steel wheels. I'd like to go for a completely stock apperance with 175HR14's but I might have to go with the 195/70HR14's. I don't need the original Datsun wheels just equivilants, though originals would be nice. Thanks

My '74 260z has a busted washer bottle pump. The assembly is proving very difficult to locate, so I'm probably going to go with a 240z bottle/pump. The only problem is the wiring connector is different. The 240z has two spade type connectors while the 260z has a socket style. A while back I remember seeing these little plastic snap together wire splicing blocks. It has two channels, one wire goes in one, the other in the second channel, you snap it closed and little spade blades cut through the casing and bridge the two wire. Does anyone else know what I'm talking about? I can't remember what they're called. I'd like to use two to put the old connector on the new pump. Thanks

No salty roads, it isn't even registered yet. The most I'll do is go around the block real quick to get a feel for it.

The car has Dual Webers on it. The choke is hooked up, but doesn't really help. Now I'm thinking it must be the cold because it hit about 29-30 degrees out and it fired right up. It's a really bad time to be in Connecticut right now, but it could be worse I could live in Maine Thanks!

Oh yeah I forgot to mention the car has a L28 in it istead of the stock L26.

It is just the basic ventalation system. I think I'm going to rebuild everything from the firewall back in the passanger cabin. I'm going to replace the heater core while I have it all ripped apart just as a precaution. Thanks!

I am having a heck of a time trying to get my 260z started. It came from down South so the cold totally killed the battery that was in it. I got a brand new battery and it started up with little problem, I let it run the idle smoothed out, everything was cool so I turned it off. I tried starting it up again shortly after and it fired right to life. The next day it was increasingly difficult to start, the engine just cranks, but wont turn over. After about 10-15 minutes trying to start it with and without the jump assist from my battery charger I got frustrated and gave up. Stubornly I went back out to the garage about an hour later and it started the on the second try. Yesterday, no luck. Today it's just cranking again. It sounds like it catches every once an a while but when I release the key it just sputters and dies. The past two days it has been VERY cold here, like 17 degrees on the thermomoter with a windchill bringing it down to about 4 degrees. I'm thinking it's just to damn cold for it. What does everyone else think? It is in the garage, but it's unheated.....