Nigel Mulvey

Well I've been getting stuck in to stripping down the 260 this weekend and have noticed that the damage to the frame rail is worse than I first thought. It looks like the damage was the result of an impact from below, such as bottoming out on a speed hump. As you can see from the first photo, the metal is creased and has actually split in one place. Looking down from the engine bay there is a bulge which shouldn't be there. It does not appear that there is any twisting of the body though. Can anyone give me some idea of how easy/hard/practical it is to replace the frame rail?

You might find these useful. http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/rotisseriebydave.html http://zhome.com/Classic/HowTo/MarcRotizzerie.htm Pete Paraska had an interesting rotisserie on his site (made of timber!) but the link to his page seems to be dead.

Keith, Thanks for your reply. I know that the engine currently in place is not original. However, the original engine was an L26 and would not have had FI. There were no covers on the boxes when I got the car - it was an unfinished (only just started) project. Thanks again for the lead.

Wow, there goes another mature moment.

I got stuck into dismantling more of the engine bay today and while I was happily labeling away I realised there were a couple of parts that I do not have a clue about. I have attached a photo with the two parts highlighted, I worked out they have something to do with the air-con because there are some connections to the rest of the system and I don't have air-con in the 240 nor do I have these parts. If anyone can help me out I would be most grateful.

You can access the website from the buttons below. Alternatively here it is: http://www.users.bigpond.com/nigel.mulvey/index.htm Cheers.

Well I have finally got around to getting my web page on-line and for those that are interested there are some photo's of my 1971 240 daily driver and my 260 2+2 before the argument with the Ford Falcon which has been well documented elsewhere on this site. The photo's aren't too good because my scanner is broken and I got my digital camera after I had the smash in the 260. I haven't taken any digital photo's of the 240 yet as we are in the middle of a drought and we are not supposed to be washing cars so it is looking a little 'dusty' at the moment. The photo's I have posted are digital photo's of paper photo's. I have also posted some (digital) photo's of my project car and will be diarising my progress. I made the first entry back in November and what with exams, work and christmas I have not done much more since (I am planning to get out there this PM). Anyway, I would appreciate any comments anyone might have. Happy New Year Y'all.

Over the past few months the indicators (turning lights) on my 240 have gradually ceased to function. Having read other posts, I decided to pull apart the indicator stalk assembly and clean the switches up a little - low and behold the indicators have started to work again albeit somewhat randomly. The only thing I didn't do was take apart the little contact assembly which clearly is the bit that needs a good cleaning. Because this small assembly is held together with a couple of tabs I didn't want to go pulling it apart and find that I couldn't reassemble the damn thing. Can anyone tell me what is inside there? Is it straight forward to take apart and re-assemble or am I going to be confronted with fiddly little parts that I can't put back together or worse still - lose. There must be a reason that the switch mechanism was assembled this way. I'm just wondering if it was to keep enthusiastic amateurs like me well away from it! Thanks in advance!

Over the past few months the indicators (turning lights) on my 240 have gradually ceased to function. Having read other posts, I decided to pull apart the indicator stalk assembly and clean the switches up a little - low and behold the indicators have started to work again albeit somewhat randomly. The only thing I didn't do was take apart the little contact assembly which clearly is the bit that needs a good cleaning. Because this small assembly is held together with a couple of tabs I didn't want to go pulling it apart and find that I couldn't reassemble the damn thing. Can anyone tell me what is inside there? Is it straight forward to take apart and re-assemble or am I going to be confronted with fiddly little parts that I can't put back together or worse still - lose. There must be a reason that the switch mechanism was assembled this way. I'm just wondering if it was to keep enthusiastic amateurs like me well away from it! Thanks in advance!

The rotisseries I have looked at connect to the rear bumper mount and the bolt holes in the frame rail that are used to bolt the under tray into place.

Gavin, It is a Nikon Coolpix 2500 and it cost AUS$699 from Domayne. You could probably pick one up cheaper if you hunt around. I have a friend who is a bit of an expert when it comes to digital photography and his advice to me was 'any Nikon'. I was looking at the Coolpix 4500 and my friend checked it out and thought it was excellent but that model is around AUS$1,500 and I couldn't quite stretch to that. What I like about the 2500 is that the lens and flash flip away and are well protected when not in use. Hope this helps.

... and this shows the wing nut damage from the inside. You can see the orange of the air cleaner cover through the hole.

This shows the wing nut damage from the outside ...

Here is a photo of the damage at the top of the wing.

Here is a photo of the rail and associated damage.

There is a bit of damage to the rails and a crease just above them. The suspension rod pulled straight out of it's mounting hole. The point at which the wing bolts on at the top now sits at about 45 degrees instead of vertical. The engine obviously bounced over quite a way because the wing nut on the air cleaner cover penetrated the inner wheel arch. It may well be fixable, but I don't know that I want to spend a lot of money on a 2+2. I've got the 1977 260 as my project car and I am going to use the 2+2 engine in that as I had only just rebuilt it. But if anyone would like to take the 2+2 on as a project (I have a spare L26 engine) make me an offer. Other than the obvious damage it is very solid.

At last bought a digital camera. I've been umming and ahhing for weeks. For those that are interested I've posted a couple of shots of my 260Z 2+2 following it's(not so) recent argument with a Ford Falcon. Alfadog, next up is my 240 but we've been having terrible dust storms in Sydney the last few days and it doesn't look its best at the moment.

Could always send it down to the trans. tunnel. That's where I have mine attached to a passing water hose with a plastic tie.

Roger, I definitely have a spare that I can let you have, looks like I've got a three screw and four screw type. I haven't got a clue what to ask for it (advantage Roger) but if you would like to message me an offer we can take it from there. Cheers,

Been to Hell and back. It is in Norway. At the risk of lowering the tone a collegue of mine at the time ensured he got intimate with his girlfriend so he could tell every one that he had a ... (edited by the author - use your imagination).

I'm pretty sure I have a spare. I'll have a look and get back to you. Freight from Sydney shouldn't be too bad.

I have an L26 blockwith an E88 head cluttering up the garage at the moment. If anyone wants to come and get it they can have it. Note: 1. I have never seen it running, I bought it for the carbs that were on it. 2. There are no carbs on it anymore.