viparz

A couple of questions. I have a RHD 240Z with a transplanted L28 (From 79 I think) it is mated to a 5 speed gearbox. I want to know if there is any way I can find out whether the gearbox came from the same 280ZX as the engine. The reason for this is I need to replace my speedo cable and am unsure if they were the same from 240 to 280ZX. ie, do I need to buy a 280ZX cable or will a 240Z one work? Thanks in advance.

Here is a pic of the coil. The two wires I am talking about are the solid black wire and the black wire with a white stripe. Do not worry about the yellow wire, that is a ground wire which is how the kill switch is wired at the moment. What I am talking about is removing the ground wire and just putting a switch in either one or both of the black wires. Any suggestion for and/or against this. If I was only to cut one, which one?

Yes, it is for an aftermarket gauge. In other threads, these guys think that locating the sender in the pan is worthless. So, is there a place in the block to locate it? If not, and I have to put it in the pan, can I just tap the pan, or do I need to weld in a bung?

I want to wire in a Kill Switch to my Ignition. There are two wires going into my Coil, can I run a switch to both of them (keeping the circuits separate) or should I ground the coil? Also, what gauge wire should I be using> Thanks in advance. ViparZ

I have an Oil Temp guage to install on my 240Z. I have read on this forum that locating it in the Oil Pan is irrelevant, and that locating in the block gives you the working temperature reading. Exactly where in the block should I locate the sender, is their a pre-drilled and tapped hole I can just plug it into? Thanks in advance. ViparZ

I feel for your loss. I do not believe you should sell the Z, once the pain subsides you will realise that no plaque or gravestone will ever bring back the good memories like your Z will. Your continuation with something the both of you shared will help him remain with you for a long time. Respect Kendall

I decided that the above advice "all of them", was the best answer I was going to get. So I went ahead and ordered the haynes manual, and the Nissan OHC books, and the "How to restore your 240Z". I now have 5 books and one video specifically on the technicalities of the Z Car. I should never make a mistake again.....right guys:stupid:

Hehe, that sounds like a good idea, but then which one do I believe :classic:

Definitely let us know how your car goes in your hot summers.......Time and temperature will tell if this relatively simple transplant will reap many cool rewards.

Even If we are talking strictly about the engine? Is FSM a brand?

Just a quick question. I have just ordered both these books: How to Rebuild you Nissan OHC How to Modify your Nissan OHC I have a workshop manual (not a Haynes or Chiltons). What I was wondering is if it was worth it getting a Haynes manual to support these books or do they stand up by themselves? (No jokes on the books structural integrity please ) The Haynes manual seems to be held in high regard here, as do the OHC books. If I was to get a Haynes, would it be better to get a 280ZX one or a 240Z one. I have a 240Z with L28 and SU carbs. Thanks in advance

When I removed my Cam Towers from my old head there were guides that half sat in the head and half in the towers, ensuring that it all lined up straight. Is this their actual purpose, I noticed that a couple of them were missing? If I installed my head without all of them, would I be doing my Z a great injustice? If so, where do I get them from. Thanks in advance

Does anyone have a photo of a front main seal that they could post. I am unable to access the car right now and am trying to buy up all the parts I will need. A photo would help to avoid me buying the wrong part. Thanks

having never been inside a timing cover before I am a little confused as to what exactly a front main seal does.........as in where does it fit etc. Once again thanks for your help.

So I spent a day trying to jigg the tensioner back into place and thought I got close......but no cigar. So the timing cover is coming off........I needed an oil change anyway. Thanks for your help guys. Your knowledge is invaluable.

Cincy, Don't know, however they are off the car now so I will post a pic soon and try and get them ID'd. It would be nice to know what headers are on my car also!

Hey guys, I put my new head on, the rockers and then the cam, torqued it all down correctly and now when I put the timing chain over the camsahft sprocket it will not reach the dowel joint (comes up about 6mm short) For some reason my TDC mark actually shows TDC at cyl 6, while #1 is at the top of the exhaust stroke. The car was running perfectly before it blew a head gasket, I wedged the timing chain, marked the sprocket position in relation to the chain. I cannot think of anything that would have caused this other than dropping a link over the crank sprocket, but I wedged everything.............. HELP, I dont know what esle to try before I pull the timing cover off.

Thanks for the replies guys. The packaging on the gasket (it was from a complete VRS) specifically says L28 and all other gaskets included are correct. My old gasket matches up right, bar a couple of extra holes, it is made by mono-torque. If the holes are from the casting process then would I be correct in assuming the matching holes in the block are also from the casting process? How do blocking them off prevent the block from rusting? Just want to be sure.

Hi guys, the time has come to put my new head onto my L28 (N42 Head/N42 Block) however I ordered a gasket from a reputable dealer and this one came. There seem to be a large number of holes (I believe they are all from the coolant galleries in the head (and the block) that are not in the gasket. I was assured that this was the right one. Can I install this one regardless or would that be the completely wrong way to go about it? Help me guys, I have that itch............................:cross-eye

I will find out what heads they think came on the 280ZX. I am running carbs however when I can afford to pay someone to worry about efi I think I will convert it back. It is true that some N42 heads came with injector notches and some without? Was the 280C injected?

I have a question relating to the L28 with an N42 head. People are telling me the N42 head is off a Nissan Patrol, while I know the patrol came with the L28, did the 280ZX ever come with the N42 head in Australia. I, nor the guy before me knows where the motor in my car comes from so I am trying to track down its origins. For the record the motor is: N42 block Flat top pistons N42 head (with FI notches on the intake holes) When I received the car it had FI. If I was to get an N42 head from a Patrol (provided I used my old cam and rockers) would need to make any changes to put it on the L28 in my car (i.e. would it be any different from a 280ZX one). Cheers Viparz

Thanks guys, I disconnected the throttle linkages and the chokes this morning and the engine idled at 900, turns out one of my linkages was too long and holding the throttle open. Tomorrow I will borrow a timing light and set the timing. The car still diesels, could this be because it is running lean (240 needles on and L28)? topped the radiator up with coolant and did not have any heating issues today, temp was much lower than yesterday though. Any advice on the dieseling? Cheers

Just completed my conversion from my troublesome EFI to SU's and the car started!! It is the first time I have heard my Z run on 18 months (due to fire damage). Trouble now is that the car idles between 3500 and 4500 rpm!!!! When I go to switch it off it diesels. Also it is running very hot and warms up extremely quickly (it was a hot day 35 C). I do not think my vacuum advance is working. The fuel bowl vents are not connected to the aircleaner and the neither is the valve cover vent (I am trying to track down a stock airbox) Help please, I really want to drive my baby.

What is the best way to block this outlet off, other than welding. I don't think I will have a problem with carb icing here (Very low humidity all year). There was also a similar outlet from the lower radiator intake. Both of these connected to my FI intake (which I have just removed). Are they necessary? Cheers

Excuse my ignorance, but just to avoid being incredibly stupid, do I need to use any adhesive or sealant when installing my carb manifold gasket? Or do I just bolt it up and go? Cheers guys