st0878

I have a habbit of cleaning everything that I take off my Z before putting it back on. The problem is that on some parts and nuts if you wire wheel them you loose the gold protective coating. Does anyone know of a spray like cold galvenizing spray that you can use to restore these parts to their original gold glazed appearance? If you paint them solid gold or silver they look lame! At the same time if you do nothing then they start to rust in just a few days. I was thinking of buying a powder coating machine but I don't think that my wife will let me cook the parts.

I had pretty much the same problems. I took the turn signal off of the column and gave it a good cleaning. This got a few of these problems to stop. I still have a problem with my right sinal not working.

I buy sheet metal from a automotive paint supply store then cut out the old and weld in the new. Sounds easy but welding sheet metal sucks.

Be careful not to use too much oil when reinstalling a bolt to the block/head. A few drops of oil with nowhere to go can turn into a hydraulic pump and fire through or crack a block.

Alright you propeller heads.... Here's the dreaded compression numbers from my 75 Z with 173k. I did the test with all the plugs out and a preheated block. First the good news, I blew even numbers across all cylenders. The compression dry was 130 on all 6 and 140 with 2 squirts. I didn't think that a 10 PSI jump wet was a great jump (correct me if I'm wrong) so I was wondering if there is anything else that could be causing low compression like the valves? And without looking inside would you think that a simple honing and rings would fix this? The car seems to have OK power and no valve rattle.:disappoin

Aw come on man. Those are rails are a Z standard! Go to Harbor Freight pick up a welder and a grinder. Next go to Zed Findings and pick up a set of floor pans and rails. Learn to weld or get rid of the car.....Please don't blow yourself up beacuse there are some fuel lines on the passenger side. I own a rust monster too. If you have the patience and can fix it. Don't hit any bumps intil you do!

Hey Andy welcome to the club. Are you a rich man or a disillusioned poor person that looks at an entire floor board that's been rusted out and thinks "ya know that's not so bad"? Sort of like shallow Hal but with a car!

Not to mention all of the scalpers that buy at MSA, BC etc. and sell for 2-3 times the price. Ebay on the otherhand has invested millions in making our transactions secure and provides the infrastructure so that we can make safe decisions as to who we can buy and sell to.:sleepy:

Can anyone tell me the tire size for a 75 280z with the stock aluminum aloy rims? The tires on there now seem to be wider than they should and I think the raidius is smaller, resulting in incorrect spedometer readings.

I searched the site....the one item they had listed wasn't it. Just kidding! It's rough to get a good quality page up and running like this one!

Zed or Z........If you own one your cool with me. But I don't think that you would need to put the steering wheel on the right side of the car if you were driver on the right side of the street.

Thanks all....I get it. I live in Miami might as well be in Bogata or Haiti or Cuba, Brazil ......In fact I come to this board just so I can remember that I'm American! I think that I call my Zed a Z.

I've only had my Z a few months and have done my fair share of surfing for information and applying what I've learned durring the day. I see the phrase "zed" used all over and have no idea what it means. I'm sure that you guys will set me strait. Thanks

It's beutiful! Mine is the absolte opposite .... my bank is calling me to warn me about the unusual spending patterns on my Visa since I bought the car! :stupid: It's sort of like when your loosing in Vegas. I think my freinds are talking INTERVENTION!

Thanks Tomohawk, that was a good link. It pretty much told me that I need a new distributor. It's hard to troubleshoot this problem any further until I first get a distributor and then we will see if the that was the problem or will the injectors still haunt me.

Hey Vicky is that your car in the picture?

Thanks Organdoner. That's what I found out last night. The turbo injectors have a flow rate of about 100cc's higher than non-turbo. I guess it's back to ebay. To top it off my distibutor pretty much fell apart today. Oh yeh don't forget I'm still trying to find my muffler. It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...It's supposed to be fun...

Hey Vicky where are you at in FL? I'm down in Homestead.

I pulled all the injectors and they all seem to be atomizing the gas pretty good. Like I said I was more concerned about the rate of flow considering that they may have come off of a turbo ZX. Today I pulled the distributor and broke it down to the component level. It was pretty gummed up so I gave it a good cleaning. The bearings are tight and all it's balls are still there. I did notice that even though the plasic plate and balls are in place that one of the 3 wings on the plate has separated from the plate. I' not sure if anyone sells a rebuild kit for this? Anyway I gave it a little oilin and put it back together. I will see if works a little better tomorrow. Thanks everyone for all the great info, but I'm still waiting for a "holly $^!# I forgot that" solution.

You know I forgot to mention that when I pulled the injectors out I dropped one on the ground and broke the plastic cap and the little atomizing pin. So I ran over to ebay and there was a set of injectors from 81zx with 40 minutes left on the auction. So now I'm wonder if the flow rates on the ZX are higher because they are turbo? Also one of those was bad so I mixed in one of my old 280z injectors in with 5 zx injectors.

Actually Florida had an emission program until a few years ago and they shut it down because an entire industry was evolving to circumvent the system. Even if it was still operational I think that cars over 20yrs could be classified as collectors and exempt from the program. When I cut out the catalytic converter I found out that it was a fake anyway...solid pipe strait through.

God bless Florida....good weather and NO emissions!

Yep. New wires and the cap looks pretty good. The coil is probably the original though. I don't have a timing light so I'm not sure that the timing is off or not. The engine seems to only have this problem when under load. I can rev the engine at a stand still and it runs great. I am inclined to believe that the engine is running rich but I don't know how to lean it up.

I just bought a 75 280z. I have been doing alot of major rust repair for a 4-5 weeks so I'm just geting around to trying to make this thing run. I thought that I had it almost there untill today I took it out for a very short spin. When I accellerate slowly it seems to run pretty smooth but if I push the peddal too hard it starts to buck and misfire. I had a car comming right at me so I guess I dug my spurs in a little too hard beacuse I blew seam right out my muffler. I've been trying to get the engine running right for a few weeks and have had problems running really rich and really rough. I changed the plug wires, cleaned the injectors, put in a new PVC, fuel filter, ripped out the cataletic converter and finally I put a new exhast/intake gasket and flange gasket. I guess I had a major vacume leak because the gasket seemed to make a big difference. Well before I tore my muffler a new one. I saw a huge cloud of black smoke and the car sputter-pops on down shift. Well tomorrow is Monday and I still don't have a ride... As my wife and neigbors are starting to give me the harry eye ball, I'm swallowing my pride and asking for a little help. You guys are great and I've gotten alot of good info from the site. Thanks EZ