greenmonster80

Older thread I know but are the headlight assy's still around? The buckets are what I am looking for. Thanks

Sounds feasible. I use blackcat and UPS to get stuff out of Japan. Not too bad. I will have to forward this thread to the interested buyer so he can chime in on his own.

Would shipping stateside be possible? A local KenMary owner is asking me to locate these for him from Japan, but thinking he can do this himself w/o language barriers from ya'll.

Zilvia, does have some good ssr mesh wheels or longchamps pop up from time to time.

The car looks more solid than the one I had restored. The front flairs are the aftermarket larger style. Not matching the rears but overall that is a very minor detail. Having an S20 would be cool but I have given up on that idea.

The car sold on ebay to a fellow classiczcar member so I am happy. Now I can start focusing on my other build. This ones for me...

Per my ebay auction I wa asked to post more interior pics.

Right on...Small Z world...

greenmonster80@hotmail.com PM Sent

Current pics of the car as she sits and some of the engine. Engine has been swapped around. Block is a l26 w/E31 head. Still has the original SU ROUNDTOP carbs though. Transmission has also been replaced with a 5 speed. I did not do any of this I simply repaired what was there to make her run well. I would look at replacing the clutch as it feels like it is slightly slipping.

Some good shots of the under floorpan area. Again no rust and super clean. Also shown are the frame rail sections that usually rust out. You know the area where the front subframes and floorpan areas are.

Hood and cowl area

I was unable to load the pic of the driverside rust but the pasengerside is similar and it loaded up so here are good visuals on the only rust found on the car. Actually all pics between the driverside and passengerside are identical as far as condition of the car so that will save time of loading pics and questions about condition. Remember to think times 2 when looking at the pics to have an accurate idea on the condtion of the car. I used a small sandblaster to remove the paint in both the front pillars and door handle areas. Evedrything else was done with a D.A. sander.

Here are some more pics. Focusing on the driver side. Only rust was in the dogleg area behind the rear wheel. Also notice the front pillar is clean and rust free as well.

I will take a short break and let some of this soak in. To make the car a daily driver I would get it painted, replace all the rubber seals, possible replace of hub bearings and check out the brakes. I have not noticed a problem with brakes or bearings but the car has been sitting for a while so a little preventive maintenance could go along way in the , "just in case" department.

Some more shots of the trunk area. Amazingly great shape. Took some time to clean this car out of NM and NV sand. But you will agree that it shows diamonds in the rough are still diamonds.

Another quick set of shots for the passenger side.

I wanted to open this thread to post more pics of the car in question and have a visible area for others to see questions, comments. car is in great shape. Too good for me in good conscience to hot rod out. So I found a second shell to put together instead. Here are some pics of the inside condition of the car. Pics are the inside floor on the driver's side. All the way back to the toolbox located directly behind the driver seat. Area is solid, clean and even has the original paint.

Does the rear of the car past the rear hatch look longer or am I looking at it cockeyed?

Rear rims are the slotted versions that are on every z in the junkyard. Fronts looks like some cheap version of the Japanese Longchamp...

The shell I plan to keep for myself. I will rebuild it with the help from my local junkyard. They have 2 pretty complete 240z cars and a handful of 280Z's as well. Will pick and chose the best stuff and modernize it a bit. The orange 72 car is on hold for a local. Hope he comes thru. The grey car is a series 1 and more pics will follow shortly. Car is complete and as rust free as I have ever seen. Hope to sell it and recoup some of my expenses. Hopefully fund some of the rebuilding for the shell as well.

I fully intended to put pics up tonight but I spent all my time wrenching on the 1/71 car and ran out of light. Did the same PM's as I did the 10/71 car and got the same results. Fires right up and good power. The 10/71 may have a tiny bit more power but the 1/71 is a smoother running car. No shaking or clunking it in at all. I need to investigate the rear brakes as I had to disconnect the parking brake cables. The handle will got down but the cable did not release. Pulled the little cotter pins and the brakes released. Anyways the paint is in shambles on the 1/71 car. Someone took a wire wheels attachment to have of it and never covered it back with something. So the only rust on it is some ever so slight surface rust. I am planning on DA ing the entire car and shoot some primer/sealer on it. This way any body flaws are easier to see. I do not expect to find any dents smoothed out with bondo. But we shall see. Hopefully I can get some time off and get the car completely sanded in 2 days. Will be posting pics of the 3 and before after of the 1/71 ....

Yes I got 3 240z's from the seller in Vegas. A 12/70, 1/71 and a 10/71. Have a buyer for the 10/71 already. It has a L26 block, E88 head and the dual SU's. It has a little bit of rust. Driverside door at the bottom rear corner and passenger side front fender has a small quater sized hole in the bottom rear corner of it. There are 2 quarter sized holes on either side of the floor pans. Rails, structure, battery tray and rockers are all solid. Would take less than a day to repair any rust on this car. There happens to be a car of the same faded color at the junkyard that has the panels needed so that the only rust on the car is 2 small holes, but I am trying to keep that car as low budget as possible. Bought it with the intend of stripping the subframes from it and bolting it into the 12/70 shell. But thought it might be difficult to get rid of a shell that was not a rolling chassis. So I pulled the plugs, cleaned them, checked the plug wires to make sure they were not fraile or dried up, changed the oil and filter clean gas and fires right up. Same story for the 1/71 car. Except no rust. The undercarriage didn't even have the rust proofing installed. It is a true series 1 car. Rear vented hatch and alot of little cool things going on in the interior. Will clean the interior and spend a couple days pretting up the paint on that one so I can sell it as a clean driving car. Sorry for the long rant I spun out into space there. Just real excited about the condition of the cars. His 69z is awesome. for the age of it you would not believe the condition. If I didn't have my KGC10 project eating up a majority of my funds I would be on it like white on rice. Doors, hoods, fenders, subframes and driveline can come from any 70-78 car. I love it just for the lack of rust, straight body and super low VIN number....

I bought 3 of his cars this weekend. Guy is moving back to Japan and cannot take everything with him...Too bad for him...Auto body guy and has a nice collection of no rust cars....

So I spent some time this evening doing preventive maintenance on the 72 240z. This one I will want to sell quickly as I do not plan on keeping it. Changed the oil and filter. Old oil was definitely dirty. Good news no water or metal was in it. So in with the new. Pulled the plugs. Only 1 was slightly wet. Cleaned them up. Wires still felt good...Not all dried up or fraile. Fired right up and has some balls to it. On closer inspection it has a L26 block E88 head and dual round top SU's. Some one along the way pieced it together with the idea of more power. Got to love the interchangeablity of the L6. The mechanical fuel pump is not hooked up. So I will go find a block off plate from a EFI car in the junkyard tomorrow. The heater hoses are a bit dried up and ratty so I will put some plugs into the head and do away with those completely. Will make the left side of the engine seem cleaner as well. The EGR pump is still on the motor but no belt so I will toss it tomorrow as well. Clean up the right side of the engine and put it on the chopping block.