Black Beaut

Thanks mate, unfortunately the engine is out of car so measuring up is a bit tricky Thinking about it I might be able to compare it with a stock manifold and downpipe if I can find those again!! Cheers, Rob

Hi All, I bought a set of Trust/Greddy headers on ebay a while back. Seller said they were off an early L-engine Skyline. I never got around to test fitting them in my Zed so I'm not 100% sure if they'd fit, I'm now planning on selling them so don't want to falsely advertise them. I seem to recall that there are issues fitting Zed specific headers in to Skylines, but I don't know if the reverse is true. Any ideas folks? Cheers, Rob

Hey Brian, It's not really a step back to the R200, the R230 was only on the torque monster Z32TT, the Z32NA used the R200 instead. Makes sense to use it as it's more than strong enough for these applications and a lot lighter than the R230. Cheers, Rob

Well why don't you do it then?!!! Still, it looks depressingly better than my complete rust bucket, and those seat covers are particularly fetching!! Sunroof blues too, oh well, can't have everything!! Cheers, Rob

Check out this thread: http://www.zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4699 Wyn has basically stuffed a 4.0l RV8 from a TVR Chimaera in to his Z in record time. BTW to get around 300 ponies you need to be looking at 5.0l engines, at which point fuel economy is laughable anyway Cheers, Rob

Yup, #2 is the way to go, otherwise you won't be able to assemble the top perch and isolator thingamajig! Cheers, Rob

Just like to add that I've now installed both harnesses to my RHD '73. I have to echo everyone else and say the quality is excellent and help from Dave is second to none! In terms of delivery I recieved my harnesses before the international tracker postage service I used said Dave had received my money order - superb! Since then Dave has been extremely helpful to an electically clueless person, answering all my dumb questions clearly. Any one else thinking that there might be an issue installing on RHD cars, don't worry, it's just as easy as on LHD! cheers, Rob

Handy install with pics here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/ball&socket/index.htm Sounds like you're on the right lines with the heat approach. Cheers, Rob

I do indeed agree that it's well and truly crossed the line in to spam-land, however I would be interested to hear webdawg's findings on the product. I haven't used it yet, been using POR15 which apart from the effort in prep seems to do a decent enough job, especially in comparison to the crud that is Hammerite. Cheers, Rob

Whilst I can't help but think this is like selling ice to Eskimos given the predominantly US-centric audience of this site, and on that count doesn't rank particularly highly on the well-researched-target-ometer, it is of slight interest to us poor rusty Brits - it would appear Megan is in the UK - as Rust Bullet sounds like a reasonable alternative to POR15. On the downside, the UK distributor listed on http://www.rustbullet.com has a different email and phone number, so you can read in to that what you will! Cheers, Rob

Nope, the difference is on the backside of the wheel mounting face. The net result of thicker hub and thinner brake disc hat on the 260 is the same as the thunner hub and thicker brake disc hat of the 240. Both discs end up in the same position which is handy as the caliper is in the same location on both cars To gain more track without spacers, you could look at using Z31 hubs, but they're 5 stud, and then you'll be having fun with brakes! Cheers, Rob

I'm slowly going about fitting a Z31 300ZX T5 to my 240Z, like boostedz says the input shafts are different lengths - see pic, the 280ZX shaft is much shorter. So I need to get the box to a gearbox place to have them do a proper job of swapping the shafts, they can also seal the bellhousing on while they're at it. The Z31 output shaft is bigger as well, which can only be a good thing. Other differences are the ratios. the 280ZX T5 has 3.5, 2.144, 1.375, 1, 0.78, where as the Z31 box has 3.35, 2.056, 1.376, 1, 0.752. I'm coupling to a 3.9 R200 so fingers crossed the ratios should be a good match for fun driving :devious: Cheers, Rob

I've got 16x8x0 with 225x45 on the back. Rear end hasn't been lowered yet (will only be dropped an inch anyway) no fit issues. Cheers, Rob

I'm frankly amazed that you guys ever bother with the pickel fork things. I appreciate that the separators aren't the cheapest tool going but they're far from the most expensive and will save you in the long run by not unnecessarily damaging the joint boots. Right tool for the right job, I've learnt that the hard way, and will continue I'm sure Cheers, Rob

No Andrew, Mercedes own Smart Get yee back to your R200!!! Cheers, Rob

MG will probably survive in some form or another as it'll be sold of separately from the main Rover group. For some reason MG is still a desirable badge, talk about living on past glories! Alas at the end of the day both modern MGs and Rovers sucked big time and what's happened to the company is just economics. It's obviously a great shame for all the thousands of workers and supporting companies though and my sympathy goes out to them, unlike the b*st*rd directors who came out of the collapse a fair few million pounds better off. Cheers, Rob

Well i see you've been to the sun kissed shores of the United kingdom today so you have the answer, the L14s are 137mm centre-centre hence giving a better rod/stroke ratio with the diesel crank. Don't know how much luck you'll have getting a set of 6 though, you might be able to source something from Japan though, you're a bit closer than we are Cheers, Rob

I've been looking in to this too. Seems like there isn't a definitive answer, each car is slightly different - great! 3/4" to 7/8" up gets you in the ball park but fine tuning is still required. Why can't life be easy?!!! Plenty more info over at http://forums.hybridz.org/ if you can find it in searchland. Cheers, Rob

Thanks for the info George, much appreciated. Have you asked Z Specialties about the 14.8V issue? Cheers, Rob

Is it replaced by another external regulator or is the upgraded alternator internally regulated? Cheers, Rob

On a similar vein to all this gearing calculation stuff, here's a little thing I knocked up that shows you what the equivalent diff ratio would be if you changed your tyre size. Handy for all those drag strip cheats http://www.robshelley.btinternet.co.uk/240z/diff_calc/ Cheers, Rob

The kit I got didn't include: Sway bar bushings - front or rear Rear sway bar end links - odd as it included the front pair. Transmission cross member - possibly because these are absent from the early Z? Hmmm, memory is hazy, can't think of any other bushes. It definitely had bushes for the front lower control arm, radius rod, 8 for the rear control arms, moustache bar and front sway bar end links. I guess engine mounts, tranny mount and diff front mount don't count as they're mounts not bushes but you won't get them anyway! Cheers, Rob

I bought a set of bushes from them a year ago now. Got them sent to the UK no probs, a bit slow of the mark admittedly. I'd recommend only paying with PayPal to be safe. I should really get around to fitting them soon Cheers, Rob

Stoppit!! You'll scare the purists Mosey on over to http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php? and ask there. Cheers, Rob

Hi folks, I'm in the process of swapping an lsd in to an R200, any guidelines on the torque settings for the ring gear bolts (10mm) and the bearing cap bolts. BTW would I be right in guessing that some form of thread locking glue is used on the ring gear bolts? They were an absolute pita to undo and there seems to be some residue in the bolt holes. BTW I check the pdf on carfiche.com/manuals but unfortunately it's corrupt. Cheers, Rob