Black Beaut

Hi Eric, Yeah you can't change the ring and pinion gears from the short nose to the long nose, what you need to do is remove the actual diff centre, so you remove the ring gear from that and then swap that in to the long nose case using the ring and pinion set up from the long nose diff. That's where the 10mm and 12mm bolts come in. Early R200 ring gears where held to the diff centre with 10mm bolts, later R200 use 12mm. Cheers, Rob

The S13 and S14 200SX diffs are the short nose R200 variety. They can be made to fit but requires a degree of fabrication. Pretty much the same as trying to fit an R230 from a 300ZXTT. Also if you get one with a viscous LSD then you have to use the out put shafts from that as they are different to open R200 shafts - which is pretty annoying The S12 Silvia 200SX, call it what you will, has a long nose R200 which with the correct moustache bar and drive shafts is a straight bolt in job. Know idea what ratios you got out there in the S12 or if any came with LSD. Or as Pennyman suggests you can just swap the internal LSD unit from an 200SX in to a long nose R200 case, just make sure that if your ring gear uses 10mm bolts and the diff unit uses 12mm bolts to have some spacer/bushes made up to fill out the extra 2mm difference. Cheers, Rob

D'oh! Thanks mate, now why didn't I think of that, makes perfect sense! Gonna have to wait another day as it's now cold, dark and wet, still plenty warmer than -38C - ugh!!! Remind me not to visit Minnesota (is that right?) at this time of year. You're right about the angles as well, not too critical, could be handy to know though as I'm having to mount the new caliper on the other side of the strut so the more info I have the simpler it is coming up with the drawings. Cheers, Rob

Hey Folks, Looking for a bit of help while the rain keeps coming down here :disappoin I'm coming up with some plans for a big brake conversion and need to design the caliper adapter, can anyone fill in the dimensions shown in the attachment? I'm pretty sure d is 3.5", no idea about radius r or angles a and b. Any dimension info will be greatly appreciated though. Once I know these I can dummy up an adapter in wood and hopefully the sun will shine long enough one day for me to dash out and try it all out! Cheers, Rob

I love the Arizona Z brakes, down side is that the rears don't have an E-brake at all which is a big no-no for cars in the UK which for DOT rules need a mechanically operated e-brake, think that's the same as in the US?! I've been doing some research in to brake upgrades - I was just going to go with Arizona Z until I found out about the lack of E-brake Anyway, fronts are easy, I've got some Brembo 4-pot Calipers of Ebay that will take a 304x28mm vented disc, I can get discs with separate bells made to measure no problem and I can fab up a caliper adaptor plate easy enough. Rears on the other hand are a major pain unless you go with an OEM sliding caliper which just isn't as cool as I want I have got a lead on a new kit coming being developed for the Lotus Elise here in the UK though which apparently has a twin pot rear caliper with e-brake. I should know more about that come the end of the month otherwise it'll just have to be the single pot slider and fun and games with a proportioning valve! Cheers, Rob

Hi All, I've just been nosying around Wilwoods website and came across some kits they make that include a small drum brake that works within the rotor hat. http://www.wilwood.org/catalogs/brakekit/group10.pdf These look like a fantastic idea but of course they don't make them for Zs, how much pressure do you think Wilwood would need to make something suitable for a Z or am I just living in a happy dream world - again?!!! Cheers. Rob

Thanks John, I've been admiring your g-nose as featured in our UK club mag, gorgeous motor there. I've got to admit I'm very tempted to go G myself having seen yours! Cheers, Rob

Hi All, Got the prototype back at the weekend, I'm pretty pleased with it, certainly looks like it's up to the job. The welding could be a bit neater I guess but that's just being picky. I'm going to slap some POR15 on it and then hopefully get it on my Z sometime soon! I'm kinda interested in producing these if the prototype works OK. I need to look at some slightly different production methods though as the cost for this one prototype was approx. £250 ($460) so I can't see there being that many orders from you guys over the pond. The machinist thought that having the top cross member made up from an aluminium casting and machined for final size would save quite a bit. I'm also looking at metal bending equipment so that I can manufacture the channel section in the lower cradle from one piece and do away with all the welding there. Out of interest, what sort of price would you guys be willing to pay for something like this? Give me something to work towards! Cheers, Rob

Hi Dylan, Put up a wanted post on the UK forum for the indicators: http://www.zclub.net/ BTW I'm sure you haven't annoyed Alan, I do know that he is currently in Japan though so getting hold of him can be a bit hit and miss. Cheers, Rob

Good luck voting guys, I'll keep my political opinions to myself - cos they have no bearing on you guys anyway - just to echo Gema - get out and vote and don't have another chad disaster like last time, that was just ugly! (although amusing as my boss is called Chad) Cheers, Rob

Got a copy last night from Jeff, very good and thorough instructions for doing the swap! Nice one Jeff Cheers, Rob

Are there any advantages to doing this? I've got an E88 I'm prepping and need to get a new spray bar and cam anyway. Cheers, Rob

They're actually going to be Delrin as I got hold of some of blank rods on Ebay. I was originally going to go with rubber but that would have meant tracking down as suitable sized bush and I'm for too lazy Urethane is probably the best compromise but also means tracking down something in the right size (see above ) so I went with the Delrin which the machinist can cut on a lathe to the perfect size. Cheers, Rob

I'm know Dave's diff mount well, lovely piece of machining. Downside of course is the extra noise and vibration passed in to the car. Hopefully my design will give a good solid mount but still have some compliance as it uses bushes and work a lot better than the standard piece of marshmellow. I've just taken the plans down to a fabricator so should have the first prototype in a couple of weeks. Here's a little animation to give you an idea, don't think it's worth me worrying about design copyright, especially given the cost to get the first one made :surprised think I need to learn how to weld! http://www.robshelley.btinternet.co.uk/240z/diff_mount/ Cheers, Rob

Will do Andy, I think my plans are pretty much finalised now thanks to Ed. Just need to find a good welder/fabricator who can produce it to the tolerances I'm after - that's "spot on or you ain't getting paid mate!" Cheers, Rob

Thanks Ed, that's perfect! Cheers, Rob

Hi Folks, Hoping you can help me out with some numbers here. I'm coming up with a design for a front diff mount but can't get to my car to measure things up for a while. The two real important dimensions I need are the distance apart that the two long bolts (that clamp the diff to the mount) are from the central bolt that holds the mount to the diff cross member. And the distance from the mounting hole in the cross member towards the hump where the member rises to go over to the exhaust - I need the distance from the hole centre to where the metal starts to curve up, so just the maximum flat width available there. Hopefully the attached pic will make things a bit clearer :knockedou Cheers, Rob

Hey All, I'm starting to think about getting my E88 head finished up, it's already shaved and ported but needs new valve guides, seals and inlet seat. So adding in bigger valves at the same time makes good sense. I've been looking at the S/S ones from Arizona Z as these seem pretty good value. Inlet sizes are 46mm or 44mm, exhaust are 38mm or 35mm. Now is there any engine building logic here that suggests I should say have a big inlet and regular exhaust ot a big exhaust ('cuse me) and a regular inlet or should I just get the two larger sizes? The head will go on an F54 block bored +2mm so there shouldn't be any issues with valves bashing the cylinder walls right? Thanks for any thoughts! Cheers, Rob

Anyone with a big hammer that is Cheers, Rob

Hmmm, wish I'd known about raising the engine up a bit when I did mine. I guess this proves though that with enough swearing anything is possible Cheers, Rob

Yep, the plug connectors were already there so I just connected the units up. Had to hack in a couple of wires to get the side markers working with them though. Naturally as I fitted in daylight I didn't think to turn the lights on, the fact that they did light up when the dipbeams were on was pointed out at the local club meet - d'oh I'll get around to fixing them somewhen, it's not like I need to worry while the car's bum is up in the air and I tackle the rear suspension and diff! Cheers, Rob

That would work for me Andrew! Since fitting US style indicators I seem to have parking (side) lights in both my headlamps and in the indicators - d'oh! I'm sure it just have to snip a wire or ten and that'll be all sorted Cheers, Rob

I'd love one of these harnesses. Being on the other side of the pond may present a problem though! Let me know if you ever decide to set up an international service and you've got yourself a PayPal account. One other minor point for righthand drive cars is that the battery is on the otherside i.e. US drivers side. Cheers, Rob

Curses, why aren't you in Norfolk, UK Cheers, Rob

Very Ferris Bueller!! Cheers, Rob