neveragain55

I'm still working on it. This is going to be one of those long, long builds due to lack of funds and time. I'm rebuilding the turbo engine now, and then I'll have to attack the body, interior and suspension. I'm not projecting to be done with this thing for at least a couple of years.

Just went through this myself Ptero, My donor motor sat for over 9 years and it was completely locked up. After I tore the whole thing apart, I saw rust everywhere from all the years of condensation. I had to literally knock the pistons out with a small sledgehammer from the bottom side of the motor once the crank was out of the way. (after it was soaked in BP Blaster for two weeks) No big deal because I planned on replacing everything anyway, and there were no appreciable grooves etched into the cylinder walls considering the rings sat in one spot for 9 years. I wouldn't kill myself trying to turn the crank if she's been sitting for a really long time, especially if you plan on rebuilding her anyway. Hope this helps....

Hi Gang, I’m having a bit of a problem finding supplier’s for three certain parts: OEM P30 crankshaft, OEM “M” Cam, and OEM hydraulic lifters. I’ve been searching on the web for days and in all the Z-car forums and either I’m missing something or I'm completely blind. I’m currently rebuilding an 82 L28ET that I’m trying to keep as stock as possible. The block is the F54, the head is a P90a with the hydraulic lifters, and the crank has "P30" stamped on it, and the cam has "M" stamped on the end. I’m open to sourcing parts from aftermarket vendors as long as the reliability & quality is the same or as close to possible as OEM. Open to all suggestions, thanks….

Hi Gang, So I picked up a 1982 L28ET engine that I plan on rebuilding and I’m basically keeping it stock for the most part using Nissan engine internals as these parts are very reliable. Once it’s rebuilt, it’s going into the 1977 280Z I just bought. I’m on the fence about using forged pistons with Moly rings but everything else like the cam, crank, valves, rockers, retainers and all other parts will remain stock. I also plan on rebuilding the original turbo with a turbo rebuild kit from Garrett which is a hell of a lot more economical than spending $650.00 dollars on a new turbo. The question I have for all of you concern's the intake manifold. As we all know the stock intake manifold is very messy with all kinds of attachment points, bung holes and other stuff that completely covers it and makes it look very ugly. Not planning on building a 300hp monster, just a modest rebuild that will make the car slightly faster than it currently is. I’ve done a lot of research in this area and the general consensus seems to be to use a 1975 intake without the EGR at the end. Some say however that the intake runners on the 75 intake are too long for the turbo engine and the fuel mapping will be thrown off. Please advise me if the 75 intake will work, how I can obtain these results and/or what would be the best intake manifold to use keeping in mind that I don’t have to worry about emissions because of the age of the car and the state I live in. I have attached some pictures to give you some idea of what I'm talking about. I planned on getting rid of all the emission nonsense (sorry guys I’m not a tree hugger) I also looked at the LoneWolf intake setup but I’m not sure. As always, thanks in advance...........

I’ve only had the one turbo myself, and the odd thing is that I had several opportunities when I was young to own Z28’s or Trans Am’s with Turbo’s but I always turned them down because I didn’t think that Turbo’s were ‘all-that” The first time I took my 83 Z out for a spin and I felt the wooooosh and heard the ‘whistle’ I was hooked. I remember passing a Supra on the 95 in Miami headed for South Beach like it was standing still and I was completely blown away at how fast that little Z would go:paranoid: Like I said in the previous post, hot-rodded straight six’s pull like nothing else. You can literally feel the linearity from the piston layout and the torque. I drool daily, thinking what my little 77 is going to feel like with the 180hp turbo motor in it:classic: I’ve seen a lot of the post’s on Hybrid-Z, and your absolutely right about the amount of time and money those guys spend on their cars (not that I begrudge money or success) God bless you if you have the means, but a lot of us are working with shoe string budgets so I’ll try to be as fiscally responsible as possible with this project. As far as the stock, matching 5 speed transmission that’s coming with the motor (picking everything up this Sunday) I’ve actually read a few articles that claim the entire unit will slip in like slipping on an old pair of comfortable gloves so I will definitely be paying attention to that phase of it and doing more research on that based on what you said. Push come to shove, I’ll just source a 5 speed from another 77 or 78 and bolt in on. Mind you none of this is going to happen right away so I really appreciate all the tips and info because I’ll be compiling all of this info over the winter and I’ll probably start attacking all of this well into next spring. I plan on keeping this Z until the end so I want to do it right and really prep the body, rust proof everything, and seal her up as tight as a drum. Thanks for all the help Leonard……………. Dennis

I really appreciate the advice Idahokidd, I’m not one of those that are only interested in what I want to hear, and I appreciate the honesty. Even though the turbo unit on my 83 was glitchy (I lived in South Florida at the time) the car was unbelievably fast when she ran right, and I’m a freak for all things “in-line six.” The Z-guys I met in Florida all told me that turbo’s don’t like hot weather climates, hence the glitchyness of the turbo. I own a 1989 BMW 635CSI with the big 3.5 six and even though the car is incredibly heavy, the engines linear, break neck pulling strength gives me goose bumps every time I drive her. There’s just something about the way a 6 pulls vs. any other piston engine layout. I grew up with all the old American muscle cars and I love them dearly but I’d rather keep a six in the Z. I’ve done some research on the Datsun/Nissan Z engines and everything I’ve read explained how the turbo motors had beefier journals, walls, bottom ends and internals. Whether any of this is true is another story. I can only base my opinions on my experience with the turbo that I had. I’ll probably wind up rebuilding at least the top half of the engine, massage the head, and add an exhaust that will allow her to breathe better. I’ve found a ton of articles on this (what seems to be very popular) swap and a lot of people swear by the increased performance so I think I’m going to go through with it. I hope whatever health issues you had have all subsided and that everything’s ok now. Thanks again buddy…….

Hi gang, Well I just purchased my third (and hopefully) final Z. This is the one I'd like to keep until the end. I've got major plans for her like putting a ZX Turbo motor and accompanying 5 speed tranny in from a 1982 donor car. I've restored many cars over the years and me, tools, and engine swaps are very old, close, intimate friends but I've never done a Z before. If any of you have any insightful tips or advice for me like: how to navigate through all the electrical harness issues, smog equipment, exhaust options, clearance issues etc. etc. etc. I would greatly appreciate it. I'm actually thinking about eliminating the turbo set-up from the engine because I had an 83 ZX Turbo years ago that was very fast but the turbo gave me nothing but headaches. (jury is still out on this) I want the motor more for its stronger internals and increased horsepower over the original unit that's in the car now. Thanks in advance…………..

The fix was easy, these cars are awsome. (when their running) I used to own a 1983 ZX Turbo that wasn't well taken care of, and it needed work - but even in poor shape, she gave newer, hopped up BMW's and Honda's Hell. True pocket rocket......

Oh I wasn't bothered at all by Bruce's comments, truly:) I've posted other issues on this site and he's always been very helpful, I'm just glad my car starts:classic: Ciao...........

Turns out it was the fuel pump relay gang................... Thanks for all the help & addvice

Wow, thanks everybody......................... this is the reason why I love these forums so much. Promise to get back to everybody after this weekend.

Thanks so much Steve..................... will do all.

When you think about the age of these cars and how oxidation and rust plays a factor, it makes sense. I chalk it all off to old age. Unfortunately in the interim "nyuck nyuck" doesn't help me, but I appreciate the response anyway. If any bursts of clarity or revelations on this issue comes to anyone, please don't hesitate to chime in. Ciao............

Hi Gang, 1977 280Z with roughly 130.000 miles. Ran beautifully for the first year of ownership - sat over the winter -wasn't properly winterized - new battery and fresh gas in the following spring, and Voila.................... no start:mad: Spins real strong, but no start. If I spray "engine start" directly into the MAF, she starts and runs as long as my finger is on the spray nozzle. Once I stop spraying, she shuts off moments later. My prognosis: there's no fuel reaching the injectors, so I assumed the fuel pump was bad:ermm: I own a 1994 Acura Legend that had a similar "no start" issue but the problem turned out to be the fuel pump main relay. The solder dry’s & cracks, and the electrical contact loses it's connection over time. Am I barking up the wrong tree with the fuel pump, and have any of you had no start issues directly connected to a main relay? Thanks in advance........